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  #16  
Old 09-15-2025, 09:06 PM
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very interesting, i'll have to remember that(at this time of life that means i cut and paste it into a text document in my mercedes folder)

anyway, i'd prefer to not do a rebuild, but if i have to, at least this is a car well worth doing it on, so i'll enjoy doing it -- though i'll need to find the right machine shop, probably in el paso -- and i have the other 240 to drive, so no rush -- rushing on a rebuild is when i can mess up

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  #17  
Old 09-15-2025, 09:55 PM
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I had forgotten about the vacuum pump. Last I checked, vacuum pumps are NLA at the stealership. They are available from some ebay sellers though.....

Also, before doing a complete rebuild, you might check pricing with the dealership for a new engine from germany. Also these guys:

https://mercedesengines.net/
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  #18  
Old 09-15-2025, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qualified-merc View Post
I had forgotten about the vacuum pump. Last I checked, vacuum pumps are NLA at the stealership. They are available from some ebay sellers though.....

Also, before doing a complete rebuild, you might check pricing with the dealership for a new engine from germany. Also these guys:

https://mercedesengines.net/
thanks for the info, i'll keep it in mind, hopefully i don't have to go that route -- also, i would assume my hourly rate for rebuilding is far below current rates
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  #19  
Old 09-16-2025, 10:59 AM
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Your comment about hourly rates is interesting; Kent once said we all tend to value our labor hours at ZERO. My own father taught me from early on to NEVER value our labor at ZERO. Which means this: if you build one OM616 diesel engine for yourself as a HOBBY, no harm no foul. In your mind it was a fun learning experience.

On the other hand, if you start a business rebuilding/remanufacturing OM616 diesel engines to sell to other diesel enthusiasts, your labor now has value.

It all depends upon what you want to do and are comfortable with. At this point in time, I don't know what consumer demand is for OM series diesel engines. To me, OM616, OM617 and OM606 are the KINGS.
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  #20  
Old 09-16-2025, 12:34 PM
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in 1970 i paid a guy to tune my 56 vw bug -- it ran worse than before -- that was the last time i hired anyone to do work for me, cause i had a wife, baby, little cash -- so when the engine seized, i got the crap chilton's manual from the library and rebuilt it -- it ran 2 wks, but the next time i got it right -- from that point there was no stopping me, and it is now many engine rebuilds, houses, plumbing, computers, whatever comes up, later -- "jack of all trades, master of none" -- and it helps immensely to have forums like this, youtube, and people like yourself, to draw upon -- when friends ask me how i do this stuff, i'm honest when i say i'm not talented, but i know how to do research

this rebuild would be enjoyable, unless health-related issues interfere, in which case i would use one of the resources you mentioned
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  #21  
Old 09-16-2025, 08:06 PM
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Hopefully you don't need this, stow it in case you do. The #1 cylinder bore/piston clearance is SLIGHTLY different than 2-4. #1 probably runs cooler than 2-4??? Need a good machinist that won't touch the block until the pistons are in their shop. The pistons should be numbered to their cylinder when returned for installation.
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  #22  
Old 09-16-2025, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugar Bear View Post
Hopefully you don't need this, stow it in case you do. The #1 cylinder bore/piston clearance is SLIGHTLY different than 2-4. #1 probably runs cooler than 2-4??? Need a good machinist that won't touch the block until the pistons are in their shop. The pistons should be numbered to their cylinder when returned for installation.
thanks, i added this to your previous -- any tips you think of are appreciated
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  #23  
Old 09-19-2025, 01:58 PM
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If you have an automatic trans (I didn't see that mentioned) you need to understand the following: 1978 240D starts in 2nd gear unless you activate the (functional) kick-down switch with the pedal OR start off with the shifter in position "L". The 1981 has a totally different setup with a vacuum control valve on the injection pump. Your speedometer should have dots showing maximum road speed for each of the four gears. The control pressure rod from the trans also needs to be properly adjusted.
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  #24  
Old 09-19-2025, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benzman_roy View Post
If you have an automatic trans (I didn't see that mentioned) you need to understand the following: 1978 240D starts in 2nd gear unless you activate the (functional) kick-down switch with the pedal OR start off with the shifter in position "L". The 1981 has a totally different setup with a vacuum control valve on the injection pump. Your speedometer should have dots showing maximum road speed for each of the four gears. The control pressure rod from the trans also needs to be properly adjusted.
thanks for the info, and yes, i am aware of that
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  #25  
Old 10-05-2025, 11:01 PM
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just an update, timing chain stretch was minimal, lined up at 3degrees atdc, injection pump timing was spot on -- the valve adjustment that the po recently paid for was off on the intake, was at .15mm, or a slight bit more on all 4 intakes, as if the shop had intentionally set to .15 -- can't believe that would have much impact on performance, but haven't driven it since this work, so we'll see -- once again, this just looks like a 240d with only 139k on it, except for the lack of power -- i have to use this for a couple weeks, while i do the clutch m.c. on the 81, but then will examine the injectors and do the compression test

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