I think a good machineist could do it in the car. would probably have to remove the raditor and AC condenser witch would give a clear shot from the front and would mean a recharge for air system.( don't remove any AC parts yourself as can be dangerous ) my guess is that if you find good independent shop all work including AC recharge could be done for less than 5 hundred maybe even less than that, but I still live in the stone ages..............
William Rogers....

Thanks for the reply. Every time I get a quote, I wish it still was the stone age.

My engine is fine...smooth and it was re-drilled with engine in car. My balancer is tight and the engine is so smooth that a glass of water would sit on engine and not spill at idle. Drilling should Not be a big deal to "good" mechanic, my guy used a 90 degree angle air drill and a mirror, with the radatior and condensor still on.

__________________
1983 300SD 343K everyday car
1983 300SD 285K from junk yard-tooks parts from deer car- runs great. Brothers car.
1984 300SD parts car-Hit deer
1979 300D 175K non-turbo "Doctor"
1979 300d parts car

that sounds like the perfect solution, as he would have old holes for a guide.........
William Rogers.....

You have some very good advice above which dose not involve crank removal.
Find the cause. I remember something about an earlier streech screw being updated along with 3 updated spring washers. And it could be that the dowel pins on non-turbos are smaller. Try researching this, look into turbo engine hardware, along with drilling 2 more holes with the dampner on, 90 deg. from the others, set them (hopefully snug), finish the other two with a bit sized to fit pins (again hopefully) snug. pre select your bits and pins carefully. Rollers used in roller bearings are also an excellent resource. Carefull setting the dampner on right if the shaft end got too small and or the main bore of the dampner got too big you may have to be crafty about holding it on right. maybe with a new dampner and or shim stock and or cementing it on with "titanium paste" whatever that is (see above thread).

I like what I'm hearing and am going to give it a shot. I had deceided to try it with an air powered drill and carbide drill bit, but was concerened about being able to drill the hardened crank steel with a hand drill. However, if your mechanic did it in that fashion, then it can be done!

Thanks ever so much for the info, this may have saved the big red boat. I will also definately be looking for titainum paste. So if anyone knows of a source.........

Also, in reference to finding the cause, I was initially told that my car has the wrong lower pully set, turbo on a non-turbo engine. Which would explain why I had pure hell installing what the book said were the correct belts. So this was probably putting undue stress in the entire assembly, which might have caused failure.

Note:
This is a very old thread.
08-22-2002, 02:31 PM
Great Boob
Registered User

This thread has several creative solutions = cheap answers to hard problems.

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1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
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as is often the case someone not too swift put the wrong parts on the engine and caused major problems.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I had a machinest redrill the holes and install oversize pins, car still runs like a champ, several thousand miles and years since.