monovalve rebuild opens a new can of worms???

[JHZR2]

Hi,

This weekend, I went on a road trip, and to my discomfort, had no heat for most of the way. After reading on here, I decided that it was my monovalve, and got the rebuild kit from fastlane. I did the rebuild today (super easy), and took the car for a drive. I had heat at any speed
However, I found that even when set to 'max' the intensity of the heat coming out was not as great as before. With the old monovalve, when heat was coming out, such as when driving slowly, it would be really hot, to the point that having my hand by the vent would be uncomfortable. Now the heat is always the same temperature, always warm, but not as warm... Is this normal, or is there a chance that I might have done something wrong? Not that I can imagine that I could have, the rebuild was so easy, and I used all the washers exactly as they came out with the old valve.

On another topic, the washers and the metal piece surrounding the electronic coils that the monovalve slides into were all somewhat corroded, with a whitish looking coating. Is this normal, or is it a sign that something is not correct? I can imagine these parts are not always under coolant, so may be able to corrode, but I dont want things to be getting screwed up.

Thanks,

JMH

[84300DT]

i'm sure others will jump in, but my first thought is there maybe air in the cooling system and it needs 'burping'. do a search on this -

also did you check that the aux. water pump is working correctly?

[psfred]

Sounds more like the climate control is working properly rather that on/off as it was. I only get really hot air if I set the temp wheel to the max limit hot on defrost, otherwise the air is tempered to hold the cabin temp. High blower when the coolant warms up, then heat and lower blower as the car warms up. Never get cooked feet as I do in the Volvo with manual heat.

The corrosion was from the monovalve leaking. You may want to take it back out and make sure the armature and solenoid winding are both clean -- if the armature cannot move to the completely open position due to crud, you won't get full heat.

Peter