How many cranks should it take to get my 240D diesel awoken from slumber in the morning? I waited 20 secs after glow relay, let starter do its work for 4-7seconds, and it fired....acceptable?

I never had a 240D but from now on if I were ever in the market for an OM616/7 powered MB I would probably expect it to start like mine.

I wait for the pre-glow light to come off (usually 5-6 depending on the outside temperature) and just cranks it as soon as it goes off. It fires up instantly all the time even when it got to 25F last year. (Coldest in the city last year) - the motor works for one second or two .MAX.

The idle was rough but fast idle for a few seconds cures it.

Have you checked out the glow plugs? What about those quick relays? I saw some on E-Bay.

Good luck,

*Oh! At one point it took more than two cranks to start but an oil change cured it right away*

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2008 BMW 335i Coupe

Maybe ive got a problem. None of my plugs are dead, but is it possible for them to be weak? Here in the country, it has been routinely below freezing overnight. I running Chevron Delo and its almost time to change. What weight you recommend? Also, what about additives? I currently do not run any, and assume Mobil puts some in the fuel. I don't know what the problem is. Holson, I assume you keep your car outside, correct? If so, thats amazing how quickly it fires up. I need effort to awaken my beast, even after like 35 seconds of glow, its still doesnt fire immediately. I am running Autolite glow plugs....could these be the reason?

I don't use Oil additives. I am the kinda person who dont trust them but would try them when I'm bored hehehe..

I use Red Line Diesel Fuel Catalyst that I get from Pep Boys from time to time. It has helped a great deal. It's a long-term improvement but it smokes soo much less now.

Why don't you just replace the glow plugs? That's what I would do..
What about the relay?

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2008 BMW 335i Coupe

To tell you truth I have no clue about the relay. I assume its working, and can hear it clun off after about a minute. As we speak, I have 3 old plugs and one new Autolite plug. Ive read stories of Autolite plugs burning out, and it seems the best ones are Beru. I am tempted to ditch all of them and buy nice new Beru plugs. I have another relay in my garage taken from a 300D/240D in the junkyard. Can't remember which one. This problem has just started to occur. It was worse before, and would require three preglows before combustion. Better fuel has remedied this, inline filter is nice and clear, and I can pass ligh through it. Bad compression is not an issue, as engine has been rebuilt about 19K ago. We'll see what happens tommorow after I let it glow thw hole 1 minute. This whole cold starting b/s is starting to irritate me as it would start fine without a problem about 2 weeks ago when it was the same temperature out. I started fine yesterday, jst as you described. We'll see what happens tommorow. Maybe some remnants of that bad fuel? I hope its not water in the diesel. I went to some no name diesel place, and this b/s started. I hope its just poor fuel and nothing major. Can't hurt to replace plugs.

Mine car also starts in the 4-7 second range, but I am also running Delo 400 oil. I don't think you have a problem with your car starting, when it gets cold it tends to take longer to get these engines started. If you have a block heater, and plug in your car at night, it should almost fire right up.

My 300D starts just about like you described your 240D starts. I let the light go out, wait about 10 seconds and start cranking. I probably have to crank for 1-4 seconds versus your 7 seconds, but mine doesn't just light up, it takes a few cranks. Sometimes it takes two cycles to start, but that is typically because I am trying to be too gentle with the accelerator versus pressing it down to 1/2 it's travel as the manual says. Please note, my manual says "if the engine has not started after 30 seconds (of cranking!!!!!) then discontinue the starting procedure"and start again.

I just replaced glow plugs,,,, they were all original, my car is a 1977, and I just had a feeling that I was going to have an issue this winter and I didn't want to have to replace one or more when it gets cold. As PEHaiges said, and is probably right, if it ain't broke, don't fix it...I just couldn't help myself.

The net is, I saw no improvement is starting......obviously I replaced 5 good glow plugs.

At some level with these cars, if they start, don't worry about it. When I went into my first winter with the car last year.....I agonized about block heaters, oil, etc. I never had a problem starting it even in the coldest of weather.

I maintain the car well, use Redline with each tank and add a glug of PowerService in the winter. I make sure my valves are adjusted and have a good battery. I use Delo 15-40 with no additives. I make sure I have good fuel filters, air filters and change the oil religiously and I make sure I buy diesel at a high volume station. I think the practices above help a bunch, I would suggest making sure you follow these practices before you start replacing parts (like I did).

Good luck

JCD

On additives: A very honest rep from and oil co. once said to me: "if the oil you're using is so bad that you have to put additives in it, why are you buying it in the first place?"

I read a post in this group not too long ago where the person would pump the pedal a few times and then hold it partially depressed during the crank (glow plug cycle has ended ie.. light has gone off).

I tried this on a 25F day and the car started as if it was a warm summer morning.

Can some one expound as to what the function of the glow plug is: it is understood that the tips are like little heating elements which glow but are they supposed to warm the air/fuel mixture which enters the chamber or are they supposed to marginally increase the temp of the combustion chamber until the combustion process starts up?

Would driving slow increase the amount of soot deposits in the glow plug area, and does hard driving clear these deposits?

I have heard of gas cars needing propane treatment to remove carbon deposits or so the dealer said.

Thanks

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Diesel-Lover
STABLEs STAR MEMBERS
190, 220-Missgreatly
E300D95-Smoothassilk

A properly functioning glow plug will glow red hot - the plug is placed very close to the injected fuel stream. When the atomized fuel hits the red-hot plug it ignites - even if the compression level is too low because of slow cranking speeds. Glow plugs act as a catalyst in a chemical reaction.

I have not had good luck with champion or autolight glow plugs - I would stick to Bosch or Beru. Also avoid "monarch" plugs, they are made in Germany but I bought 4 of them for my 240D and all failed within 1 month.

The best test of a glow plug is a current draw test - a good plug will draw 9-15 amps in operation.

A healthy engine with good glow plugs at an ambient temp of 32 degrees should start faster than 4-7 seconds. My 240D with a rebuilt engine would start in about a quarter of a second at freezing and on the first compression stroke in summer temps.

Tim