This is a very ingenious way to shut me up.

Have a great day,

anyone have a photo of how to remove the sleeves? thanks O

I see you are looking. So am I. Bye the way, why do you want to pull your sleeves?

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

I have two core motors that have a lot of miles on them ... pistions are not bad however the sleeves have had better days ... Omar

Unless the boring or honing is done while the machine is indexed to the crank there is a possibility one bore or more will be off. The blocks themselves may have distorted over the years somewhat for example. Especially if the cast iron was pretty green when initially machined. You may even manage a fairly good bore at home but will it be perpendicular to thecrankshaft?
The better machine shops might even be cheaper in the long haul although I could not visuilise a medium to good shop using a non indexed boring or honing setup for removal of a reasonable amount of material. This is no longer the 1920-30s with pour in bearings.
Sure a final cross hatch honing to break the rings in and supply good oil for the breakin process is fine even done freehand. I also notice some mention of aftermarket pistons. Wonder if they are good and perhaps more cost effective?
I would want to do a preliminary test to make sure the sleeve holes where still where they should be unless quite a bit of material has to be removed to fit the new pistons. If only a few thousands on average has to be removed from the sleeve then it is an important check. If the bore is off enough you might require the first piston oversize to acuratly bore the sleeve.
When spending the kind of money a good rebuild of a 617 or 616 requires you want to get it right. For all I know these blocks typically do not move with age and use but it is just too dangerous to assume that. Or you may own one of the rare ones that has moved. You never know until you check.
Places like metric motors have got a good reputation basically because they check everything. Unfortunatly I think they charge too much of a premium for trying to do the right thing. Many other machine shops offer pretty well the exact same thing at fairer prices. It's up to the individual to find them.
I have never worked in an automotive machine shop. Yet I would not like to see someone go to quite a bit of trouble and expense only to have problems down the road basically from not doing the cheaper things in the job well.
For whatever reason when trying to establish why the number one connecting rod lets go usually on the 616 block I did consider it might be the casting aging and moving the bore with time and milage. Perhaps someone when rebuilding one of these engines will ask the machine shop if that #1 bore was off centre before they machined it. Rolling dice otherwise comes to mind.