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#1
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Block heater cord routing
I have a E300D and have ordered the block heater cord. However, since the plug is just adjacent to the exhaust manifoid, I would like to know the best way to rout it from the plug it to the bumper flap, without burning it on the exhaust etc. Any help will be appreciated. I had a '87 190 TD that I installed a plug for but I ran it under everything except for the undershield. Let me know your combined experience.
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hlg |
#2
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I can't help on that model, but my experience has simply been to get underneath with some plastic strips. About 15 minutes later I crawl out and its done. Have done 3 of them this way with my TD having an additional cord that goes to the rear of the wagon. The front end of the car ends up underneath my workbench where I can't access the plug, so I put it rearward
![]() Don
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DAILY DRIVERS: '84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's) '99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's) '97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's) '97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's) '96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's '84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion) SOLD: '82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed ![]() |
#3
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What year is your 300?
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#4
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Its a '97 non turbo. Only had 66 k on the meter. I do not see much near the plug site to tie onto with the nylon ties. I can take it between the two manifold necks and go straight across to the passenger side firewall and then under. I was thinking of using a protective loom, but it would probably melt before the cord.
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hlg |
#5
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Since mine is in storage I can not see the routing but one thing I can offer, is that when I drove it in the winter the 1st season, I noticed that from the factory the cord was tucked into the bottom lefthand side of the grill if you face the car. It was a very tight pull/squeeze to get it out, so you can have it sticking out for easy access.
Since mine is black, it was/is easy to see how anything effects the paint. Here in Canada, most of us like to have the cords exposed to the elements for easy access, but in the factory routing, I would suggest a small piece of rubber cut to fit around the plug part, and or maybe a small piece of 3m on the top of the bumper where the cord contacts the paint. The was I remember enough cord to dangle it outside like we do on other vehicles, but this would not look right on the benz.... I know this does not help you with the routing, but maybe it can help you with the end of the cord. The 98 and 97 I believe to be similiar but not certain. |
#6
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cord routing
Thanks for your input Chris. Most I have seen are routed to the little area behind the small grill where the tow hitch is. This allows it to be hidden except during the the winter when it can be dangled outside for more convenience. My main concern is inbetween there and the block. I have just discovered that I can probably reach the plug from above by laying over the engine from the front and reaching down and around with my left hand. So I will probably rout the cord to the side wall and along there foreward until I can duck it into the area around the bumper grill where it will emerge.
Thanks all for your input.
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hlg |
#7
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It goes straight down from the plug and then forward along the top edge of the oil pan. There are wire ties attached to something down there. I'll try to take a picture at lunchtime and post it this afternoon or tonight. You're not the only one who has asked this question.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#8
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I have mine routed to come out at the base of the grill. This eliminates having to get on my knees to open the access panel under the bumper in wet weather. It gets stowed behind the grill in the summer.
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www.jerseyplanning.com 1987 300TD 440K - My car 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 107K - Tim's car 2000 - CLK320 100K - Deb's car 1994 C230 150K - Josh's Car |
#9
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block heater cord
Thanks Rick, will look for your pictures. Also routing to the area behind the base of the grill looks like the easiest placement for easy accessability. Thanks
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hlg |
#10
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Closeup
The cord is wrapped in silver heat shielding and wire tied to a steel line. It looks like it's probably the transmission oil cooler line. I never looked at it this closely before.
Email me if you want the originals of any of these pictures. They are 2272x1704 and a little over a megabyte each. So I've had to resize them to fit here.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#11
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A wider view
Now that you know what to look for, here's a wider view. Your won't have the turbo in the way, so it should be simpler. I think it might be adviseable to do this job from underneath, because of what comes next.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#12
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Under the alternator
You can just see part of it peeking out below and to the right of the alternator.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#13
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The silver shielding ended somewhere along the way, and the cord is wire tied to the tow hook. Notice the cap to keep the plug nice and clean. All this was done by the dealer when the car was new.
Yes, my car is very dirty. I'm away from home on assignment and it's been raining like crazy here. ![]() Good luck with your project!
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#14
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heater cord
Rick, That's perfect!! Really will make it easier for me. Thanks very much. Should have it all in by next week. Appreciate your attention. Regards, Harvey
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hlg |
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