Subframe mount bushings a success!! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Capt Kirk · #1 03-13-2003, 04:25 PM

I got both sides finally fixed, one side I was careless and dented the rocker panel, but the other side I was more careful.

it helped to push the bushing in by using the old bushing between the new one and a jack and actually lifting the car by the bushings and letting the weight slowly press the new bushing into its hole. Also, WD-40 helps, theres really no way to press a rubber bushing in without some sort of lubricant. You could also see very clearly what they mean when a bushing "collapses" when you compare the new one to hte old one.

Anyways, took the car out for a test drive (love those

) and the improvement is quite noticeable. The Subframe doesn't feel disconnected anymore and the whole car feels solid as a rock now, makes for some fun driving

It also helps with reducing those minor steering corrections, although my steering box is still jacked up so it didn't help me that much in that regard.

#2 03-15-2003, 02:12 PM

Kirk

How hard was that to do? How much were the parts? did you do the front and the rear? I am debating wether or not to do them.

I think that mine are shot.

Thanks

bob

Capt Kirk · #3 03-15-2003, 03:03 PM

it was actually pretty easy. I only did the rear this time around since I rebuilt the front end last year. I have bushings for the trailing arms for the rear, but no spring compressor so those are going to have to wait.

All I did was pry out the old one and using the jack press in the new one. In the repair kit they have little rubber disks that go on the top of the subframe, the Haynes manual didn't say anything about it but the MB manual did.

As far as price it was somewhere around $40 (don't quote me on that) for the kit that contains the bushings for both sides.

#4 03-15-2003, 03:20 PM

Thanks for the advice.

It should stiffin my old car up.

bob

DieselHead · #5 03-15-2003, 03:52 PM

How do you know if they're shot? The rear will ride a little lower or something? Thanks

Alex

Capt Kirk · #6 03-15-2003, 04:01 PM

look at them and if the center isn't poking out much more than the sides then they are collapsed. I might go get a digital camera today, so if I do I'll be sure to show you what they are suppose to look like.

DieselHead · #7 03-15-2003, 04:20 PM

That would be great, thank you.

Alex

jbaj007 · #8 03-15-2003, 04:59 PM

Good job; I'm sure yours will work perfectly. Generally, though, you want to use a water based lubricant on rubber bushings, rather than a petroleum based one, as oil based ones are deleterious to rubber. I'm sure yours are fine with a little WD-40, but KY Jelly (stop snickering), dishwashing liquid or a silicone lube is preferred over a petroleum product, when a lube is needed for pressing in a rubber part.

Capt Kirk · #9 03-15-2003, 07:02 PM

it wasn't actual WD-40, it was some Valveline wannabe, said it was alright for that sort of thing, but I agree, I should have used palmolive mixed well with water.

As for the camera, they were more expensive than I thought. Its going to have to wait till I get a steady source of income. I'll ask some friends though, they might have one.

samiam4 · #10 03-15-2003, 07:56 PM

Why not just use the factory lube??

I've used other lubricants.. not KY. The best working stuff was the MB paste. It's what you probably know as "sunroof lubricant". You can buy a big can or order a small bit from Phil or any aftermarket parts supplier.

Makes it SO easy. I can pop them in with my hands.. hold for 15 minutes and it's done. Naturally, I use a jack instead of my hands for holding.

Michael