Ebay 1983 300TD Wagon

[centroid1]

hi,

i'm new and this is my first post to this forum. i'm in minneapolis, mn and have been eyeing several 1983 300td wagons either on ebay or other places for a while. while i have some questions about how difficult or easy it would be to own this car in this climate parked outside in the winter time. i heard it might be ok if the car is plugged in overnight. my knowledge of the car is limited but would like to own one to use daily. so i saw this on ebay and it seems really nice especially with a "new" engine. i'm curious about it. i just want some general feedback if anyone has time. i don't think i would bid on it because i would like to see it or have a mechanic look at it. but if its a good car then maybe ...
some questions might be: why a new engine so early ? anything i should be suspicious about ? would a turbo diesel be problematic in minnesota outside ?

any one here on this forum near mesa, az ?
thanks !

link to ebay:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4603430251&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[ImBroke]

make sure the SLS works. Looks great. Wonder why it needed a new engine???

[t walgamuth]

it should start down to zero without being plugged in if the engine is really good. below that if you park it outside all day at work it prob wont start. i have left mine idling in the parking lot all day on many occasions when it was 15 or 20 below.

tom w

[dieseldiehard]

Using synthetic oil is recommended especially in the cold weather you have, in addition to a block heater.
That wagon is very nice and it will probably go higher, they seldom come this clean. The PO probably let it run low on oil and had a new engine installed.

[Rich300TDMBZ]

This car is almost $9000, with 8 days to go. This is too high for me. I would go for a 1987 300TD at this price. I have seen a few going on Ebay for this price and lower. For getting a good TD, one just has to be patient.

[t walgamuth]

it is prob worth that but it would have to be like new.

tom w

[centroid1]

Originally Posted by ImBroke

make sure the SLS works. Looks great. Wonder why it needed a new engine???

like i said, i'm new to this whole forum, what's "SLS" ?

[83-240D]

sls(self leveling suspension) is the active hydralic suspension on the rear of the td. when you turn the key and the engine starts the rear end lifts as the hyd fluid is pumped into the system. if it does not rise ask why. it is expensive to replace the entire system. it may only need fluid after the leak is patched if possible. if it has been converted to shocks and springs you might want to run away.

use the search function here to answer questions. type in sls or 300td for any variety of subjects covered.

below is a list of things i posted on another site. i have had my td for about 4 months. it has been expensive. remember our motto, there is no expensive mercedes like and inexpensive mercedes.


what to look for.....

1. hoodpad still attached? about 80 bucks.
2. are the panels around the front jack points still there?
3. is that front fender loose? it may be rusted underneath.
4. pull the cover off the spare and pull the tire. can you see sunlight where the well meets the joints?
5. pull the cover on the other side where the jack and emergency kit are. same question.
6. are the outside lips of the wheel arch rusted thru?
7. you really need to drive the car. does it track straight?
8. rock the front fenders. do the shocks squeak? when you look at them is there fluid leaking from them?
9. does the motor have oil all over it? is the bottom covered in oil? bad leak somewhere. usually the turbo return line from under the air cleaner.
10. speaking of the air cleaner does it rock? broken mounts. cheep.
11. is there rust around the rear window?
12. does the rear hatch stay up w/o using a broom handle? about 30 bucks each.
13. does the car have a sunroof? get a couple gallons of water and pour one over the front corners. if water comes into the car the drains need work. this involves taking the headliner apart. i did it. my wife was very helpful.
14. pull the battery. is the tray in one piece?
15. is the bulkhead under the battery tray still one piece or has a hole opened up? expensive weld job for a trained person.
16. clean out under the hood springs. you can stand up the hood. is the area under the acqumulated debris still in one piece? more welding.
17. just for snicks, does the radio work? does the antenna go up and down. its electric.
18. do the heater controls work? it might just be a connection issue like on mine or it might be the complicated controls. i don't know. mine is horizontal. the complicated one is vertical. a new one is expensive.

hang out at www.peachparts.com diesel discussion group. a lot of very knowledgeable folks there to help with problems. like was said above, don't buy a project car. you can get a good car for aro 3 grand that is in nice shape.

check the cars threads on this site for a 300td that might be in better shape.

good luck.

[kerry]

SLS= self leveling system. All the wagons have hydraulic pneumatic shocks in the rear that automatically adjust to the load. A very nifty system. It has a hydraulic pump on the head, a reservoir of hydraulic fluid in the engine compartment, hydraulic cylinders as 'shocks' and balls filled partly with nitrogen and separated from the hydraulic fluid with a rubber bladder. These balls (accumulators) serve as the 'shock' system. Somewhat expensive to repair but actually quite reliable. I have about 165k miles on mine and they are still original and working well.

[MTUpower]

Originally Posted by 83-240D

sls(self leveling suspension) is the active hydralic suspension on the rear of the td. when you turn the key and the engine starts the rear end lifts as the hyd fluid is pumped into the system.

In a properly running SLS the height of the rear does not change if the engine is running or not. It only activates when a load is put in the rear of the wagon and then it lifts the rear to the original position- when the engine is running. The way to test a SLS is by measuring the height of the rear with the engine off, place a large load in the back that drops the height, and then start the car. It ought to take less than 5 seconds at idle to return to the original non loaded height.

[dieseldiehard]

Note a correction on the previous advise from 83 240D.
A good SLS does not drop over a period of days, even weeks if its in excellent condition. So a good SLS will NOT rise when the car is started, unless you just packed the rear seat(s) with passengers!
OTOH, a failing SLS will drop over night and rise when started up the next day.

A set of rear hydro shocks will cost about $625 to $800 depending on where you buy them, plus labor that's an expensive fix, don't ask me how I know (I own two 300TD's and one needed rear shocks after it blew a seal one frigid morning in a motel parking lot in West Texas!)
The advise to avoid a TD that has been modified to use conventional shocks is also wise because few mods of this nature are ever done right and will result in a real compromise in ride quality.
I have used my '79 300TD to carry loads as much as 900 Lbs of ceramic tile in the rear, although not more than a few miles and it was slow going but the SLS kept the bed level!

[centroid1]

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

it should start down to zero without being plugged in if the engine is really good. below that if you park it outside all day at work it prob wont start. i have left mine idling in the parking lot all day on many occasions when it was 15 or 20 below.

tom w

hmmm... that doesn't sound good for a minnesotan. would proper valve adjustments and good engine tune ups over come that starting issue ?

83-240D-you’re in Wisconsin so we have similar weather, any problems with any of your turbo diesels ?

What about transmission or other expensive items, is 150k not that much for a tranny ? or it really has to do with how it was kept that whole time ?

[R Leo]

Current bid: US $9,600.00 (Reserve met)

Peach Pie. Nuff' said.

Very rare sunroof/roof luggage rack combination.

LMAO!

[t walgamuth]

has had fluid and filters every 30k like is recommended, it should be perfect. as long as all the vac hookups and controls are in good working order.

tom w

[Dervman]

For such a well maintained vehicle it is strange that the Tachometer doesn't appear to work.
Picture of Gauges shows fuel level and correct oil pressure but no RPM.
I also suspect that the body has been repainted and the chassis has fresh undercoating. May have been done for cosmetic reasons but who knows. The fact that it needed a new engine at such a low (indicated) mileage is also an indicator of possible neglected maintenance or maybe just bad luck.
Looks great in the pictures though.