Can I damage the cruise control actuator by using a non-spec box?
 

Hello! I just received a cruise control amp from a wrecked '83 300D (thanks Bernie!). I looked in Fastlane, and Fastlane gives the same part number for both '83 and '85. The pin count and arrangement are the same between the '83 box and my box. However, the box is physically a little bit (maybe a half inch) shorter and has different numbers on the outside.

I'm just wondering, if I hook this box up to my system and try to use it, do I run the risk of damaging the actuator or anything else?

Thanks in advance!

...anyone? :(

Warden,

Why don't you use your original box?

By box, Do you mean the connector box that the cruise control circuit card plugs into?

P E H

I said "box" by accident...I'm referring to the amplifier. And my amp is bad; it'll hold speed for a little while (varies; can be 3 seconds or 3 hours), then will either start making the car slow down or (scary) can actually start making it speed up. I got this one from another car simply 'cause I thought it might work, and the price was right...and if worse comes to worst, I have two cores. :)

Warden,

If the pins on the circuit cards look the same I'd give it a try but I can't tell you for sure. Seems like you might burn out the circuit card before the actuator id not compatible.

I avoid calling the circuit card an amplifier because it really isn't. Its more of a computer because its the brains of the system.

P E H

The 14 pin amplifier has had several incarnations over the years, with supposed improvements in function and reliability with each new part #, and most are interchangable. I am using an amp from a 126 gasser in my 300SD ('84) right now (and for the last several months) with great results, so I'd say you're safe. Maybe all aren't interchangable, but most are. Of course the ones for the old vacuum run actuator model (10 pin?) won't work, but I know you know that.

Warden,
My amp went south, surging like crazy. Replaced with an amp from an 82 SD. Works fine but my switch is screwy so I can't always get it to turn on.... I think any 14pin amp will work. You might want to check out www.gdl-online.com they have instructions on troubleshooting your actuator and switch. It would suck to blow another amp because of a bad actuator. RT

Being a computer guy, I am 99% certain that they would have changed the connector if the amp was incompatible. Go for it.

Thank you all for your replies!

Unfortunately, I plugged it in, and either I missed a plug somewhere, or it doesn't work at all. I need to do the actuator test, although the symptoms shown with my amp implied that my amp's what's wrong...

Warden,

There's a lot of good info in the GDL website. I'm glad you made your post or I would not have found the website.

P E H