The A/C fuse housing (#8) is melted. It looks like a bear to replace the fuse panel. I have seen several waterproof fuse holders and was wondering if installing an external fuse holder was a good idea? Has anyone else seen a melted A/C fuse panel socket? Are the wires on the underside of the fuse holder typically damaged if the fuse holder melts/burns?
If the panel does need to be replaced are the wires pulled through the fire wall to ease installation or is the whole job done from inside the car with the dash pulled?

When I bought my car, I noticed that the plastic around No. 8 was melted. My friends wagon also shows melted plastic around No. 8. (This should be a poll! How many W123 owners have a No. 8 fuse holder that's melted?!)

Anyway, I don't think you need to replace the entire panel. Just scrub the contacts (I used Kontact Restorer and a toothbrush) and you should be fine. Also, I've had better luck using a the old-style ceramic fuses in No. 8 rather than the new-style glass. And, you might want to look into "Slo-Blo" fuses...

MBw,
Replacing a fuse panel would be a job on one of these. I think dash removal etc. would be mandatory. As you probably know, the wires connect to the panel under the dash with ring connectors and feed from there to underdash components as well as through the firewall to engine components...no plug in type firewall connector as on many US cars.
#8 being on the lower edge of the fuse block may be reachable from under the dash without dash removal. I think it should have only one big wire in/one out, rather than a cluster. If you can get to the screws to remove the two correct wires and then connect an inline fuse holder between them with the correct fuse(16Amp I think)...If doable, that seems like the easiest solution to me.

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Diesel-guy

Contrary to common belief, you CAN remove the fuse panel without pulling the dash. Remove all fuses and visible screws. You'll really need to wiggle it out, which might take some time. It IS possible, and when it's out of the hole you will have easy access to the wires at the back.

I agree with "Speedy" that removing the fuse panel is doable without pulling the dash. Easier with the gauges/dash out though. I should not have used the word "mandatory" etc. in my previous post. Some cars with less equipment would probably be easier than others.

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Diesel-guy

I tried removing a good panel from a car in a junk yard a while back and could not get it to come out of the firewall. Thanks for the information that it is possible. This car is a wagon but I bought a sedan a couple years ago and #8 is melted on that one too.

facing the car, is the #8 fuse the one in the upper right-hand corner? if so, mine is melted as well. that would explain why my ac doesn't work. what should i do to fix that?

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1985 300D Turbo "Eunis"

Performance Products makes a cable and fuse holder that includes a replaceable 30 amp fuse. You must attach it to the underside of the fuse panel by removing and reinstalling the screws. Not an easy task, but, it does solve the melted #8 fuse problem.

The part number is 54-280.

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