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#1
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Ok first off, thanks so much to all the member of this awsome website, because without you it would be just another site with useless information on it! You guys have saved me so much money, I'm only 17 and this car was given to me as a gift, and I'm already in debt
![]() Well, I was searching through the old threads, I figured out the clicking noise coming from my rear end. 1/2 shalf are worn. Well I called up CarQuest and they have to order my HalfShalfs, no big deal, there 70 bucks a piece, so I can wait, but he said it was asking him a couple question upon ordering them. Like 12mm or 8mm, I'm not sure, I think 8mm, but I'd rather know for sure, and is there any other questions or information I might need to know when I go in to order them. Ive been reading in the manuals and on the website alot, and the job does not seem to hard, but I'm going to take it slow, I would be better safe then sorry, anyways thanks again, and your help means alot!!!! |
#2
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Pull off one of the rear wheels and look down in the center of the axle hub. You will see the head of the fastener he is asking about. You can probably just remove it and measure the dia of the threaded part. My guess is 8 mm but you will want to check.
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Jim |
#3
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They're asking for the size of the bolt head. So you don't need to remove it to measure it. Just tell them what size socket fits it. Now here's the kicker: check both sides. I've read stories of cars that left the factory with one of each size.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#4
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Thanks for the clarification Rick - my memory ain't what it used to be.
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Jim |
#5
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in my '84 they were 8mm.
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1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP |
#6
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Do these half shafts need to be replaced in kind? In other words if they are 8mm, do you need to replace with 8mm? What would you need in order to switch from one type/size to the other? Thanks.
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1961 190Db retired 1968 220D/8 325,000 1983 300D 164,150 |
#7
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Yes, they need to be replaced in kind. The bolt in the hub is not the only thing that is different. There is also something different on the differnential side. Fastlane used to show both types, but now they are only showing "annular joint." I think the other one was "homeokinetic" or something like that.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#8
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Steve,
This is a fairly easy DIY. Do a search on the topic there is lots of info on it. When I did mine I posted a fairly lengthy DIY review. RT ps. I would love to know the difference between annular, homeokinetic and CV joints. They all look the same to me...
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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#9
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Look under a W124- that's similar to the later style. Rebuilders generally have the homokinetic.
Difference. One joint has 8 ball bearings, one has 6. The earlier style w/6, has the inner flange that goes into the differential integral. Later style has a generic joint (ala W124), with a machined flange. Don't ever let anyone tell you one will or will not fit a car. BOTH will work in any W123. Michael
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Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#10
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Thanks guys, but engatwork I think your right about the measuring part because I put a socket over the head of the bolt and it was 13mm, so I wasn't sure but I went to order them and I talked to the guy about it. He's going to ask the company what they want the measurement of, then he will order them and I will be click free, and smooth riding!!! All thats left is to rebuild my front end, it sags real bad and wears the tire in a couple months!!!! Anyways thanks guys!!!
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