Finally got the engine free (it was stuck).

There was a piece of metal that kind of burred in the snout of the transmission.
It was small, but large enough to cause the engine to be stuck.

Anyway, on to current issues.

It wont start now.

I have been trying to start it for about an hour now!

(Before any of you jump on me, with many breaks to let the starter cool down )

Assume we are refering to the closest cylinder to the front of the car as number one, then I do get fuel out of the return line there.

I may have a slight leak on one of the braded return hoses as well.

My hand pump does have a leak and will be replaced soon.

Any advice???

What is the best return line to look at to see if I have full fuel.

Thanks!

Crack each injector line at the injector and see if fuel seeps out as you're cranking.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Am I correct in the assumption that a little leak in the RETURN braided line shouldn't interfere with the car starting?

Probably not. I wait until the smell really bothers me before I replace my return lines

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Its possable the leak in the hand pump is letting air into the system. The engine had been running with that pump?
So you didn,t do anything to the engine, just pulled the tranny? what engine 616 or 617 I assume, cause if you have fuel coming out at the cracked injector lines and it ran before.....she should lite off.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

It's a 77 300D.

And yes, the engine has been running with this pump.

Oh well, I Just ordered a new one anyway.

But I cracked the lines and had to crank for about 3-4 seconds before I got fuel.

I closed it all back up, and still, no start.
The battery may be low, so I am charging it now...

Fun.

Battery is fine.

What do you all think is my major malfunction?

Pip

I would start by making sure the glow plugs are working. Do you have the new fast style GPs, much better starting especially when its cold. If you have fuel to the injectors and the glow plugs are working you might check the vacuum stop switch on the aft end of the injector pump. How was your compression? How long was the car not running?

Steve

Well, the car was running fine about a year ago.

Old style Glow plugs.

Nothing has changed.

How do I check the glow plugs?

Thanks!

PIP,

Do you have the glowing indicator coil in your dash. If that glows a bright orange, the GP are probably working correctly.

Another test for the series (loop) GP is to read the voltage drop across each GP when they are energized. If you get ~1.5 volts across each one, they are working properly. Hook your test leads as close to the GP as possible or on the terminal. Be careful of the resistance wires connecting the GP: they get hot.

P E H

P.E.H.

Yes, I do have the dash light.
It comes on while the buzzer comes on, and goes off about a second after it turns off (about 4-6 seconds for the buzzer).

My new hand primer pump comes tomorrow morning, so after I replace that and pump it up I hope it starts.

One last question.

Is it normal for the battery light to be on when the key is in the start position?

That is something I am unclear of.
I do have the factory manual, but haven't found my answer yet.

Thanks again!

You have air in the IP. Get the new primer on, and pump until you hear fuel hissing out the overflow (pressure valve) on the main fuel filter. Ensure that the suction line from the tank isn't leaking (it usually is if the hand pump is bad, they will be the same age) -- if it leaks, replace it. You will only suck up air that way, never gonna start.

Once you get good fuel in the filter, crack the return line on the pump (engine side, I think) and pump until you get only fuel, no air.

Seal back up, and crack the injection lines. Crank until only fuel flow out -- if it sprays, you have air in it yet. Should only spurt a bit.

Tighten injection lines, run GPS, and try to start. If it sputters, keep cranking (not more than 15-30 sec, then wait a bit for the starter to cool off again!). Should light right up.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks for the help guys.

I will update this in the afternoon after I have put the new primer pump.

Is the suction line the braided hose too?

Or can I get this from Autozone?

Pip,

I didn't mean a dash light, I meant a coil in the dash (similar to a cigarette lighter) that glows with about the same intensity as the series GP glow themself. Older MB Diesels had them, your's doesn't have it you have a light.

So the only way for you check the GP without removing them is the voltage test that I described.

BTW, the pressure relief valve that PSFred mentioned is in the IP, not the fuel filter.

Any air that gets into the fuel lines is purged by the bleed hole in the secondary filter unless if you have a hole in the fuel line large enough that the fuel pump only pulls air. You might find this by pressurizing the fuel tank slightly and look under car for leaks.

P E H

Well, good news and bad news (for me).

Good news is that I dont have a fuel problem.

Bad news, I have no voltage across any of my glow plugs...
In fact, I can touch the coils with my bare hands!

Edit I have 12 Volts to the first GP, and no voltage after that.
about 1 Ohms of resistance across the other 4 GPs and 50 at the "bad" one.

So me thinks I have a bad GP.

Do any local parts chains keep the filament type GPs in stock?
Just curious.