In case you are wondering how to get to the top two bolts that hold the transmission to the engine.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

You must figure you have a stronger than normal Air Cleaner support bracket....

Is that a Buick I see in the background ?

so it takes a guy on the motor and one on the ground? or is the lower guy just for moral support? I was hoping to get the tranny out of the SD without removing the motor too - maybe I will just pull the whole thing out.

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andy t
'78 300d
'95 volvo 850, wagon
'86 300sdl - engine out, maybe I'll have it rolling by June

whole bunch o' bicycles

Hehe, yeah. After I test it this way, I'm selling it to Thomaspin. I figure he'll fork over the big bucks for one that won't break. But, it might not be a valid test. I have lost a lot of weight, you know.


Yup. After having all this fun, I've decided I'm selling that one "AS IS."

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Actually, the transmission is resting on the lower guy's head.

Seriously, the lower guy (in this case, Thing One) retrieves the bolts that invariably get dropped 3-4 times while doing this delicate procedure. And, in this case, it's far better to have the 22 year old fetching things and jumping up and down than having the old fart do it.

At one point, I was thinking that yanking the motor would be better too. But, now that I own 30"+ of both 1/2" and 3/8" extensions along with the proper cap head sockets and can actually reach the bolts from behind the transmission, the idea of pulling loose all those hoses and oil lines is unnecessary and too daunting unless the engine's been killed or something terrible has happened.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

I've done both, pulled engine (twice) and pulled the trans out of my 81 300SD. Much easier pulling the trans than pulling the engine. Much easier.
By the way, I saw a private shop where the guy had a set up with a flat padded metal thing to lay on that was attached to an arm that allowed him to lay flat on it and pull himself over the engine to work overhead. Had air lines for his power tools, lights, and a place for everything. I was told this was a commercial product that was used by a few NASCAR garages. Looked expensive. Decided not to ask the cost. That shop just reeked of $$$$.

The "horse with no name" rode again tonight. New (used) tranny, new fluid.

The jury is still out but at least this transmission shifts and doesn't slip like a fiend when you mash the throttle. The shift points are weird so some additional adjusting is definitely in order.

More details as they become available...

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Old Dies -

Northern Tool sells a device similar to what you describe.

It doesn't appear to have air hose/power provisions, but they could be added I suppose. Item 630211 at about $200.

Of course, using it wouldn't allow proper strength-testing of the air cleaner mounting bracket.

Cheers,
Wes

Well, now there's over 100 miles on the replacement transmission and nothing serious to report. Currently, we're going through the ususal cycle of adjustments that follow any MBZ transmission change-out...working out a little flaring and delayed shifting. The delay we've been able to adjust out by slacking the bowden cable. The flares are slightly more problematic and will most likely take some tinkering with the proportioning valve.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

You could put the Trans-X you got for the Buick into that new trans to see if it helps it...

Um, Greg, I hate to be the one to break this to you...Trans-X doesn't work on the transmission's vacuum controls.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Since it does help on varnish removal... and it is hard to tell whether you only have one cause for some of those types symptoms... like flaring.... it is cheap, won't hurt anything... and might take out varnish build up as a partial cause for flaring or other things ... which could sure mess up trial and error setting of the vacuum parts of the system....

I hear you Greg.
However, the current shift issues are minor and are directly attributable to vacuum control settings. Disconnecting the vac line to the modulator produces the requisite firm shift that you don't get with the vacuum present. This tells me that it's one of the following:
1) Incorrectly adjusted proportioning valve (highly likely given that every MBZ auto transmission is different)
2) Excessive vacuum to the proportioning valve (possibly caused by a PO's fumbled attempts to clean soot from the vacuum amplifier orifices)

Sloppy shifts with the modulator disconnected would indicate that there was some problems with piston movement. In which case, I'd be thiking seriously about the Trans-X. In addition, I saw the valve body and pan innards on this transmission when I changed out the filter. It was clean.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Have you seen the excellant section on this site by someone.. I think it is Steve Brotherton.. about adjusting these old transmissions ?

Actually, I think we should commission Afmcorp (Craig Morris) to machine one for everyone in titanium. Bet he could get $1000 for each....