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#1
09-18-2003, 06:01 PM
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Starter Problem
A couple of months ago I changed the starter on my 82 240D. At the advice of forum members I ordered a new Bosch starter, rather than acquiring a brand x one from Advance Auto. After a few days I had the first incident of it not starting. You turn the key and only a click. I checked and cleaned all connections ad reassembled. This didn't eliminat the problem, but since then I have narrowed down the problem to occurring only after a fairly long (at least 15 mile trip) and then a hot restart. It appears that the starter just won't turn when it gets really hot. And it is noticably hot to the touch when this happens. The problem never happens when it is cold. Sometimes it will turn after a 1/2 second delay, and other times it does nothing. It will always start if I let it cool off (a couple of hours).
Should I be looking at a heat shield, or do I just have a bad starter? 
__________________
1976 240D 1987 560SL 2007 E320 Bluetec 1998 C280 (now son’s car) 1982 240D Manual - Sold 
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#2
09-18-2003, 06:42 PM
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My money's on a bad starter. You're engine doesn't get that hot.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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#3
09-18-2003, 08:17 PM
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Bad starter or bad solenoid, return it.
Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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#4
09-19-2003, 06:37 PM
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Frankly,
Do the simple tests below before you remove the starter. When the starter isn't working, measure the voltage at the input terminal stud to the starter while someone holds the key in the start position. You should get ~12 volts. If you do, the starter is probably is NG. If you get ~12 volts on starter terminal, then check the solonoid terminal stud that the battery cable connects to. If you don't have ~12 volts there, there is a high resistance connection somewhere. It could be a bad connection at the battery posts. Make sure you connect your test lead to the stud, not the cable connected to the stud. If you get ~12 volts at both places and the starter does not work, the starter is probably NG. P E H
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#5
09-21-2003, 02:02 PM
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franklyspeaking,
I was probably one of the crowd advocating a new starter and appologize for not seeing your post earlier. I recommend the FastLane product listed as "heavy duty" for the later (1985) 300D, 300TD, 300SD and 300SDL. If one of these starters is not doing the job I am sure FastLane will replace it. The symptoms you describe are typical of a starter that has been rebuilt mechanically, but not "electrically" meaning the electrical parts, including the windings, have not been replaced. The end result is that when hot, the insulation does a poor job of insulating and too much of your power "leaks" in a path that does no work. The older an insulation system gets, the less able it is to resist this "leaking" effect. If it was possible to let this process continue, you would have a short. But since long before you actually get a short the starter stops working correctly, you typically replace it. Keep us posted and good luck, Jim
__________________
Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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#6
09-22-2003, 10:18 PM
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Okay.....I believe you guys have nailed the problem correctly once more. I changed the starter over the weekend, and even though the other starter worked 95% of the time, I can tell that the new one is starting the car quicker and it responds instantly, whereas the old one had a slight delay before it began to turn (sometimes it wouldn't turn at all - usually when hot). P.E.Haiges, I did not do the tests you suggested due to difficulty in getting the starter to repeat its failure. It actually only failed to start the car on three or four different occasions in 2 months (4 times too many). Each time I was able to round up someone to help me push start it.
Thanks for response and advice. The bright side of this is I can change a 240D starter in about 2 hours (not that I want to do it again any time soon). 
__________________
1976 240D 1987 560SL 2007 E320 Bluetec 1998 C280 (now son’s car) 1982 240D Manual - Sold Last edited by franklyspeaking; 09-22-2003 at 10:27 PM.
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#7
09-22-2003, 11:44 PM
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But will you remember how to do it in ten years...I have to worry about things like that as, as the years build up, it seems I forget how to get under the car, not just how to take things off and put them back on! Good luck, Jim
__________________
Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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#8
09-23-2003, 10:41 AM
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Frankly,
I understand intermittent problems. Whenever you want something to not work to try to test it, it works fine and you can't run the tests. Its also applies when you take it to someone else to explain that it doesn't work and of course then it works. Must be one of Murphy's Laws. P E H
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