This weekend I replaced the upper control arm bushings and sway bar bushings. I don't know exactly the process others use but I jacked the car up and put it on a jack stand. Removed the bolt from the inner fender well and drove it out with a 1/4" long extension. Removed the bolt from the other end of the control arm where the sway bar bushings live and rotate the upper control arm out to replace the bushings. Then I put one sway bar bushing in place, rotate the arm back in and install the other sway bar bushing and bolt back to sway bar. I then put the tire back on and lowered the car down carefully while locating the control arm to the hole in the inner fender well. A bit of jockeying and work with a long pry bar and I was able to get the bolt back through and fastened. Tighten everthing up and the driver side is done. Passenger side same except for removal of air cleaner, battery and battery tray for room. A little harder on this side but after learning on the other, it was about an hour deal.

Took the opportunity to wire brush and repaint the battery tray while it was out and clean the debris from under the tray.

I noted that the bar bushings on the firewall appear to be urethane (red).

The result is a much better steering response and feel through corners and on the highway is much better. No wandering at all now. Old bushings were really dried out and crunchy/crumbling. Sway bar bushings were deformed and worn.

You have to have a lot of patience to get the bolt back through the bushing sleeve and both sides of the fenderwell as getting it lined up can be tedious. I don't know if there is an easier way but it was certainly worth the $25.00 in parts and 3.5 hours to do it.

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Mike Holbrook
1983 MB 300TD-T (aka -- Daisy)
Spring Valley, CA