|
|
|
|
|
#1
10-07-2003, 04:53 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
240d Coolant Engine Drain Plug
Does anyone have any tips on how to remove this hard-to-reach coolant drain plug on the side of the engine? It seems to be a untouched since it left the factory. Do you suggest removing the air cleaner assembly to get to it more easily? WD40 it overnight maybe? help!
__________________
$500 1982 240d owner "Gunter" 125k miles,4 speed manual crank windows, MB Tex, all original no a/c, daily driver Scorecard so far.... $230 Maaco paint job $27 dimmer switch, $40 shutoff valve, $45 brake MC, $260 calipers, $40 brake hoses, $40 side fender trim, $20 balancing, $109 lifetime alignment, $10 fuel return lines, $115 oil&fuel filters for next 30k miles 
|
|
#2
10-07-2003, 05:08 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
357 magnum ? or 6 inch extension and 1/2 inch breaker bar and proper size deep socket ?
|
|
#3
10-07-2003, 05:20 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
It's even tougher to install the block heater, try taking that core plug out after 20+ years. Usually to do that you need a breaker bar with the MB allen socket and about a 6 foot pipe, plus have some heavy friends and a torch.
With the block drain usually, like the block heater plug, you'll want to do it on a hoist from below. Usually a nice long 1/2" drive breaker bar will do it, like about a 2+ foot long one. Gilly
|
|
#5
10-07-2003, 06:50 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I used an old trick when I removed the tank heater nipple from daBenz and installed the plug from the parts car: with the engine stone cold, heat the plug with a propane torch. The plug heats up, expands and breaks the corrosion in the threads. Let things cool off and pulled the plug with a 1/2in breaker bar. Just remember to cover the starter. I used tin foil and shaped it to act as a sluice into a clean oil pan. Well... those were the plugs I was dealing with - right rear.
__________________
daBenz - 1970 220D
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
