Can you pull it without removing the oil filter housing? Andy had apparently done this.

I figured it out guys...look for a thread detailing the process.

We never even had near the right screws to choose from. Dad and I figured it out. Yay!!!!

Brandon

(And yes..you can get that cover off without removing the oil filter housing if you have a ratchet with a screwdriver attachment.)

My hands are too big to do that unfortunately....I already tried. But you fellows with smaller hands than me might be able.

Yes you can take the IP out without pulling the oil filter tower......however if yours has a leaking gasket like many do now is a good time to replace it. Both the IP to block gasket and the oild tower to block gasket.

My car has not leaked a drop of oil in my driveway ever since. Wish I had done this 2 years ago before it left black spots alover my cement driveway.

The IP lifts out at a 45 degree angle from verticle....the major problem is the rear lower bracket.

Yes, I've got leaks at both locations.

I'm a bit concerned with pulling the IP since I've got the entire head removed. What are the risks of removing the IP and screwing up on the reinstallation?
Can you provide any details that would ensure that I can get it back on the same way it comes off. Remember, I've got additional risk due to the fact that the camshaft is removed.

It would certainly be much easier to do the IP gasket with the oil filter housing removed, correct?

Not sure about the OM617 setup, but the OM603 engines should be running while you turn the full load screw out. The idle quantity screw then needs to be backed off after you've achieved the optimum full load setting, or the engine idle speed will be too high. It's not a static process--YMMV

what I would do it get the motor to 24 degrees BTDC on the correct stroke.

Pull your IP at that position...try not to rotate the ip when pulling it. You may scribe a line across the block and IP to get a better reference of its prior position before pulling it..

Make a visual note when it is out to look at the splined drive gear...there is a missing spline...it should line up with a stamped mark on the governer cover.

I say this becasue there was a small production run of pumps that were improperly marked...and if I am not mistaken those are three splines off from the missing spline CCW when in the same internal position.

I don't remember the serial number range of the affected IP's but a search through the archives will find it.

THere is a locking tool that will make this job easier but I have not used it.
You wil still have to retime the IP but that gets you awefully close.


With the IP out is the best time to replace the filter tower gasket. You are going to have to scrape the block most likely. Mine was petrified and appeared molecularly bonded to the block....wipe the surface down with a solvent that dries like lacqer thinner...if there is residue left scrap some more or it will leak......don't ask me how I found that out. But it looked clean and smooth but wasn't completely removed, ruined the gasket and leaked aweful bad..

With the IP out you get more light and more room to work....far more than with the IP in place.

I might try and find that locking tool. I'd be far more confident if the pump can't rotate.

So, do you remove the IP first? Or do you remove the oil filter housing first?
I thought the oil filter housing comes off first?? :confused:

Figured out how to remove it easily, or figured out how to adjust the 617 fuel delivery? Either way, please post the link to the new thread when you start it...

:)

You can do either or.........since you will be pulling the oil filter tower to do the gasket....then do that first. that lets you slide the IP stright out and straight in......instead of angling it.

And you will spent far less time swearing up a storm over the rear lower IP bracket ....its almost impossible to do with the filter tower in place...you aren't a small person with small hands...and neither am I.

Pull the IP last...but put it in with the bracket first before the oil filter tower and you will be a far happier person.

OK, will do. Thanks.

I read an anecdote once of a person who attended an MBCA event a few years back, where an expert MB tech did some adjustments to this guy's OM617. Apparently he pulled the oil filter housing to access the adjustments in the rear of the pump. Story was he could R&R the filter housing and tweak the pump inside 30 minutes or so, in the parking lot of the event. Did this 3-5 times before they were satisfied with the results, which were, IIRC, higher RPM limit and increased fuel delivery for more power. Take it with a grain o' salt, of course, but I wonder if that might indeed be easier than yanking the IP out each time?

One more reason to get a 603... you can adjust that IP by removing the cruise actuator. Probably an hour or so total for a novice. (I'll find out for sure in the next month!)

:o

Here is a link to the other thread which describes how to adjust the full load stop...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/125766-617-ip-full-load-stop-adjustment-procedure.html

Did you see that airtool in my hands on the site?
I have HUGE hands...the only trick of it is that I have very thin fingers.
Pinky to thumb, hand spread wide...I can reach past the caps lock to enter key distance... :eek:

However yeah, for my dad, removing that rear cover would be impossible due to finger thickness. The bonus of the deal is, you may never have to remove the rear cover again. :)

30 minutes? with the oil filter housing? That is something I would have to see.....I can't get it out that fast. much less R&R..and I have done it a couple times. If you get it in and out in an hour you are a fast worker.