Inner CV joint

[JHZR2]

I had a diff boot fail and destory a CV joint almost instantly while going 75 MPH on the interstate a year and a half ago. I had it replaced by the dealer at considerable cost.

The new style has what looks like reverse 5-point star (so youd need a funny shaped 5 point socket to get them off) in the area where the actual joint and boot attach to the flange on the diff. Around two of those bolt points there is some sort of thick black grease seeping out. It looks like the grease gets flinged often, as there are traces on the body at all points in a line around where the bolts are.

Is this 'semi normal'? Are the new style MB CV joints and axle shafts servicable? As I recall the older ones werent servicable, nor could the boots be changed. Is there somethiong that would cause this, like driving too fast (which for this car is continuous driving at 80-85).

Is there a way to slightly open the cv joint and squeeze some CV joint lube in there without having to remove the boot or change it?

If I wanted the dealer to look at it, tighten it and add cv grease-fluid into the boot, what would be my best bet for getting them to do it? Dont MB parts usually carry a 1year warranty? Ive had mine for 1.5 years and around 30k

Like my diff question, are the cv joints that sensitive to grease level? I drive 80+ miles a day, most on the interstate with no issues. I just dont want to end up with a dead half shaft again after the price I paid last time.

Any info or help would be most appreciated.
Thanks,

JMH

[dieseldiehard]

The new style half-axles bolt on with 6 bolts to a ring, and is called annular style, there is no input shaft as in the earlier style.
The best units are built in Spain under the Glaenzer Spicer or GKN name and run semi-retail for about $299 (more or less depending where you buy them)
I have never seen a new axle start leaking fluid.
The typical failure of an axle is that it starts thumping or clunking and in the worst case the car cannot be driven over 2 MPH without severe vibration. Rebuilt units tend to go that way, sometimes in less than 6 months after purchase, for this reason I highly recommend using new units unless you are getting rid of the car soon.
If the new axle failed in the same fashion as the earlier version there may be something that is causing the boot to tear, like road hazards (wire getting tangled in the axle) or foreign objects tearing the boot. I have run the new style axles at sustained 75 - 80 MPH driving cross country and back, and not seen any leaks.

I would try getting some warranty satisfaction, even though its around 18 months old, the dealer should be able to apply some pressure on their supplier and get a second unit at reduced cost at the least, maybe even a replacement if they are lucky.
I would avoid filling the boot with fluid, if you can even obtain any its not going to be easy to seal the boot and doing so will void the warranty for certain.

Let us know what you eventually do!
Dieseldiehard
1971 220 (gas) 4-spd manual 104041
1979 300TD w/ ’85 turbo engine 289560
1983 300D 237490
1985 300TD 206150