starter replacement?

[squid1351]

ok, ive found a 240D 4 speed standard. the guy is asking less than $800 from what im told the body is nice and the interior is just as good. The guy was driving the car regularly when it stoped starting....he said that the starter is probly bad but its possible that the engine is frozen.... just wandering what are the chances that it is frozzen? also how difficult is it to find a used starter and replace it curb side? any info on starter R&R or frozzen engines would be great? thanks a bunch..............

[P.E.Haiges]

Squid,

Engine would only be frozen if below 32*F. LOL

To see it the engine will turn, put a 27mm socket wrench on the crankshaft bolt. The engine should turn easily if it is in running condition. If it turns, the problem is in the starter or starter circuit.

There can be a lot of reasons the starter won't crank the engine:
1. Dead battery
2. Bad connection of cables to starter.
3. Bad connection of wire from key switch to starter.
4. Bad key switch.
5. Solonoid not working.
6. Bad starter.

Investigate the above before you try replacing the starter. You can do most of the tests with a simple voltmeter.

P E H

[squid1351]

hey thanks for the step by step instructions. I was planing on just pulling the starter and hooking it to a good battary to rule that out, but your ways easyer then mine. i apreaciate your advice....keep on truckin

[Ken300D]

If I were in a emergency situation (to evaluate a vehicle) where I didn't have a 27-mm socket, I'd put a socket on the power steering pump pully as a test. Its a more common size.

But if you have these MB diesels, a 27-mm socket (actually, the "injector" socket sold by Performance Products) comes in really handy. Beyond injectors, it fits the crankshaft pully just right - and you need this for doing things like valve adjustments, IP timing, and rolling in another timing chain.

But if you don't have one - try the power steering pump. Just be as gentle as possible. The reason the power steering pump is generally not preferred to do this is because you tend to tighten up the pully TOO tight, and you can put extra force on the bearings there.

Ken300D

[lietuviai]

I've always used the p/s pump nut to turn the engine by hand. There isn't enough room in my 300D to get any socket wrench on the crank pulley bolt without pulling out the radiator.
The CD manual also says not to turn the engine ccw, I wonder why?

[P.E.Haiges]

To see if the engine turns by pushing the car, you better try high gear.

P E H

From what I have seen, turning CCW will put slack in the wrong side (IP side) of the timing chain. When it is turned the other way the slack may cause the chain to skip one or more teeth. If each tooth is 18* crankshaft/camshaft timing then they add up VERY quick and valves start to collide with pistons, IP timing is off, and in worse case, the chain comes off the sprocket.

[squid1351]

pushing the car shouldent be too dificlut seeing that its in san francisco. and lucky i do have tht 27mm i got it to do a compression test on a prior 240D.

[lietuviai]

Is it supposed to be relatively easy to get at that crank pulley bolt?
I've seem to have tried to get at that crank pulley bolt and there just wasn't enough room down there to even get my hands in there to fit the socket wrench on the bolt.

[Ken300D]

Works best with a deep socket. Actually, the 27-mm "injector" socket that Performance Products sells is just the right length to also fit on the crank. Then the socket driver sits perfectly between the radiator and the crank pully.

So far its the only thing I've used the "injector" tool for.

For the most part you have to turn the crank with the socket handle from underneath the car.

Ken300D

[lietuviai]

You know that's what I was thinking you probably have to do. I've always tried going in from the top of the engine and it was a PIA. I'll just stick to using the P/S pulley nut as I always have. It's easier that way when getting the cam to the right position when adjusting valves.