Bath for injector parts ?
 

Does anyone remember what to soak injector parts in to get all the grunge off. I pulled the injectors apart yesterday and it was amazing the car (240D) was running at all. I put in a set that I had and the car sounds nice now but I would like to clean these up for spares. A search didn't come up with the info on what to soak them in.

I do believe just normal carb cleaner works well here, it was suggested by a forum member to soak it overnight for a good cleaning. That is what I plan on using, I'll be working on that early next week. Right now I'm working in the fuel tank, then I go to the injectors (clean & pop), then to the IP timing.

I think that thomaspin used lacquer thinner to clean injectors in his article.

I suppose that would work as well, I'd think carb cleaner would be stronger and cut quicker but the lacquer thinner probably won't evaporate overnight like carb cleaner may.

The injectors in mine were REALLY rusted and goopy inside, so on dis-assy, I soaked in Berrymans carb cleaner (gallon can with basket) for an hour, then ran them in the ultrasonic cleaner (we normally use for gun cleaning) for about 10 mins with a 10% simple green solution.

Came out nice. Just the Berrymans for a few hours should do it. Make sure the cleaner is warm. USE GLOVES AND A FACE MASK!

My whole fuel system has this black coating on it, inside every line and hose (well that I haven't replaced recently) so I'm expecting at least that much in the injectors. I don't understand how they can get rusted, they are almost always in contact with an oil, diesel. Did they work fine after cleaning even with the rust? Pitted at all or did it clean right off?

I thought this would be a good time to ask if anyone is going to pull their Precombustion chambers to check the seven small holes in it ?

I was waiting for you Greg...
 

The oft forgotten prechamber that breathes life into the engine via explosions...

I guess I am getting TOO predictable.... LOL
But those holes are a critical interface between all the machinery which causes the pistons to go up and down, squeeze the air, get the fuel to be dispensed at the correct time.... and yet there is an amazingly ( to me ) small amount of discussion / concern for them being clean and open ... etc...
Is this due to the very high cost of the screw out pulling tool ? Or that it seems ' too far inside the engine' to be messed with ... people will do a good job cleaning their injectors and seem to repress any suggestions that the precombustion chambers might should be pulled and at least inspected when they are out.
The Factory Shop manual emphasizes how important it is for them to be clean... perhaps it is a lack of access to the Factory shop manual.... I don't know... but as you can see I have not given up my mission to make people think about them..... LOL

Thanks for all the replies. Think l will try the lacquer thinner as I have a gallon in the shop. It is a mystery how they get rust in there. Thanks again

Greg .. I have pulled the heads off about 4 616s now and have never seen a plugged hole in the PC. What happens? Just get carboned up ?

Steve

The manual says the holes should be clean and the little ball deal which I can't remember their name for... should be in good shape... I guess it is what directs the fuel stream towards the radially positioned holes...
I am assuming that carbon would be the usual problem.. however, someone mentioned that that round deal had burned off at the ends and was rattling around in their precombustion chamber hole... they thought someone had accidentally dropped a bearing into that area.... so that would be something which needs to be checked...
I am not accusing you of not having them clean.. It is just that the precombustion chambers get no publicity unless I post it... LOL... I am their self appointed publicity agent....(because I think they are very important ).

Since we are on the fuel system topic here anyway, what would you guys guess would cause white smoke all the time? Startup doesn't seem very difficult, nearly no blowby, burns around a quart per 3k miles, no coolant loss, and yet I can see smoke behind me while cruising down the road. It smokes even worse under boost, I'm thinking it is unburnt fuel and perhaps the timing could be causing it (I was informed today that the IP lock tool isn't available when trying to order it)? It seems to have gotten worse since I did the new timing chain but gradually. The car has 2 newer looking bosch injectors and 3 older ones which I don't care for, just wondering what I'm in for. Thanks. Oh, and also it seems to be running a bit hotter than I'd like most of the time. It warms up when I slow down and I almost think that the car warms at idle unless heat is on max.

A new timing chain elongates more than an old one per mile traveled... the Factory shop manual makes the distinction at 20,000 ( something )..... so you might need to check your timing again... and a new chain wears even more being placed on old sprockets...White smoke is unusual around here.... the last time I saw it was on a Ford which was sucking trans fluid out of the auto trans....So I would caution you to watch your coolant level... you may be producing steam ....

BoostnBenz


I know this is a bet unrefined, but mark your IP/block there on the flange, you know where you can see which way you've moved things. Advance your IP just a taste (1/8'') toward the engine and see if that does not help, if not move it back. I had an old time BM mechanic tell me that for the problems you describe EXCEPT for the "smoking all the time" part. Anyway there are no parts involved just wrenching.:D

Steve

I thought he said 1/16", yea I should give that a try but I'll clean the injectors out here first anyways. :) Thanks for the suggestion Stevo.