I took it out a while back when my cruise quit working and couldn't see anything wrong with it at the time and just set it aside.... until now. I finally looked it over really close and peeled the pad on the back of it off to find what appers to be a burned out "thingy", the soldering looks a little burned where it goes in or at least different than all the other places. The problem is I don't know what the "thingy" is or where to get a new one. If I can find out what it is Radio Shack might be able to get me one. It's a small green box looking thing (there are several but this is the smallest one). One the top it has "JK 100DC" and on the side there is "ERO" inside a square and then "MKT 1818" under that. Anyone have any idea what this thing is or where to get one? I would rather not spend $185 to get a new amp.

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

http://panasonic-denko.co.jp/ac/e/

ero may stand for "electrical relay output" which would jive with the above description.. and many are green....

http://www.google.com/search?q=capacitors+dc-film&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1

I am assuming that if you had a way to post a picture of it.. you would have.. if you can I am sure someone can identify it....

Is this method of construction pc board or wire to wire on the back of a fiberboard or just wire to wire ?

It is a regular style PC board with about 300 joints, or so it seems.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

UGH..... not easy to remove and replace a multi input device without delaminating or desolding some of the other items near by... not like being able to clip some heat shields in place...
I don't suppose this item is on ' standoffs' ?

I can post a pic but it isn't real clear...... I think that it's listed in the transzorb site. It's soldered right into the board unfortunately so no, it won't be easy to remove..... there is about 2-4mm between it and the neighboring resistors. I figure if I can get it out and a new one in (and by some miracle everything works) I'm dollars ahead.

Anyway, it's the green rectangle almost in the middle of this pic.... can't see much.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

ok,,, here is what I would do on this deal...
I would clean the top of the item you want to remove and epoxy a little ring to the top of it... and leave it 24 hours to set...
Then I would be sure I knew which solder connections on the other side of the board apply to this item... ( not always easy )..
I would have some cold air available in a can . This is for cooling the board as soon as you have accomplished your mission...
I would fix the board upside down with a weight being held to the item via the little epoxied to its back...
You need to get sufficient heat to ALL of this items solder on the back of the board as close to the same time as you can... this may mean more than one soldering iron.. or a special tip on your iron...
and you need to do this FAST... so be sure your heating ability is hot enough to immediately melt the solder...
So then you put the heat on it... as SOON as the items releases from the board you spray the cold air on it... no use messing up the connection to nearby items by allowing heat to remain...

Another way has to do with CRUSHING the item in place with little nippers.. and then dealing with the connections one at a time