83 TD blown engine? suggestions,comments - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

westkill · #1 12-25-2003, 09:21 AM

Merry christmas to all,
Heres my situation:
Yesterday I picked up a 83 TD wagon. No rust except a small piece on rear hatch near glass seal and small dent on drivers door. 212K on the clock. No 3rd seat but beutiful tan interior and dark blue exterior, sunroof,roof rack etc.
Engine: The girl said it had an oil leak and she thought she was staying on top of it. Going down hwy ,motor got louder than a bang and puff of smoke. Car was towed home. The tranny was shifting fine though prior but fluid is brown.

Diagnosis: Pulled lower oil pan. Pieces of plastic are in bottom. It appears that part of the chain tensioner broke and thats what I'm seeing. The engine will rotate but only one revolution in either direction then it locks up. It is difficult to see back to #'s 345 connecting rod but I think I am seeing something hammered looking in the rear. Not sure though. The cam looks perfect. No oil bluing etc. also when rotating, the torque convertor moves so I know no broken crank

Assumptions: Did the chain jump and now a valve hitting a piston.
Did a connecting rod let go and thats the lock up.

Suggestions: Pull motor and dissasemble lower half of crank case to inspect damage. Just put another salvage motor in? Fix this one? Would the lack of oil done any other serious damage?
What I need to pick your brains on is what have you found to be the weakest link in these motors? I am a mechanic so rebuilding is not an issue. Incidently , I paid $100 for the car with 4 brand new tires and a full tank of fuel!!!!! yuk,yuk,yuk

Ken300D · #2 12-25-2003, 09:34 AM

You'd be able to assess the condition of the timing chain and the upper chain rails just by pulling the valve cover. You pop a few fuel linkages off, the blowby hose, and four bolts - and you're there.

Either way, timing chain good or not, I think you'd then be required to pull the head off. Either to check valves or to watch pistons going up and down (or not).

I think the owner probably let it get really low of oil once and that's when she decided to sell. Just a guess.

Ken300D

leathermang · #3 12-25-2003, 10:31 AM

I think at some point you need to see into area of the top of the pistons... therefor I suggest you do that first ( pretty easy and clean compared to other stuff )
Pull the metal fuel lines off, pull the injectors, pull the precombustion chambers....
if you have the pan off.... pull the tensioner rail bolt and take it out to look at it....sounds like that is what gave way...
Don't turn the engine backwards if you can at all avoid it.

Don't assume that it was a lack of oil that caused this...it can happen just due to old age.... so don't mess up too much until you find what really happened...

How much oil was in the pan ?

Pull one or more rod bearings if you want to check for damage.. look at a lubrication chart and pick the one furthest from the oil supply... I am guessing it is the rear one....

Don't assume these are like regular engines... get the MB factory shop manual for the turbo 5 cyl (617.952) to keep from causing yourself unnecessary misery...

TomJ · #4 12-25-2003, 10:51 AM

Seems like it would be easier to just yank that engine and throw in a junkyard engine for ~$100 (sometimes $29 on special at P&S here).

BTW, one went to the crusher a month or so ago, 617 engine that had factory stickers on the block, no leaks, looked like a rebuild or factory new engine was recently installed, pulled the cam cover and it was like new in there. Couldn't afford to pull it just to have a spare, what a waste.

westkill · #5 12-25-2003, 10:58 AM

There was maybe 1 qt of oil in the pan when I removed it. Also I have the valve cover off and thats how I see what appears to be a piece of the tensioner broke off. Its plastic right? Its the piece down on the left side of the chain.

As far as engine removal, is it easier to pull the engine tranny together? In any event, I think I'll pull it out tomorrow and start stripping it down. If the block is done. I'll get a complete motor out of a yard and have a few spare parts left over.(alt, starter etc) I just have a feeling that the #5 rod let go, that appears to be the furthest from the oil pump. Do you agree? Mike

engatwork · #6 12-25-2003, 11:20 AM

Pull the engine/tranny together - lot's faster.

Get a good used engine to drop in there and you will come out ahead. Like you said - use the one coming out as a spare and rebuild it over a period of time if it looks like it would be worth it.

Pistons are expensive for these engines.

Wasuchi · #7 12-25-2003, 02:18 PM

TomJ,

Where do you live that you can pull a good used engine for so cheap? I think I need to swing by there sometime.... although my engine is fine.

TomJ · #8 12-25-2003, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Wasuchi
TomJ,

Where do you live that you can pull a good used engine for so cheap? I think I need to swing by there sometime.... although my engine is fine.

Colorado. There's a Pull&Save down in Aurora that has great prices on stuff, they move a ton of cars through, one days it's there, next day it's crushed.

leathermang · #9 12-25-2003, 03:38 PM

What are you going to do with the 240 engine ?

whunter · #10 12-25-2003, 07:16 PM

Hello TomJ
I would like the contact information for Pull&Save down in Aurora.
I agree the stated prices are great.
Have a great day.

TomJ · #11 12-26-2003, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by whunter
Hello TomJ
I would like the contact information for Pull&Save down in Aurora.
I agree the stated prices are great.
Have a great day.

They don't pull and sell parts, they just sell you what YOU go and pull. So unless you plan to come up to the area and pull the parts yourself, contacting them will be fruitless, but....

In case you DO plan to make a trip up, here's their website with pricing info, etc.

http://www.pullnsave.com/

BTW, their engine price is now $127, OUCH! When I couldv'e pulled a good 300D, they had a weekend special of $69 for any engine. Always comes when I can't afford it, but then if I "could" afford it, I probably wouldn't have been there in the first place. Sigh....

Tirebiter · #12 12-26-2003, 03:34 AM

I believe you will find that these engines are EASY to rebuild.
I found an 83 300D in the recycler for $76. Owner said the engine developed a miss over a six month period of time. Zero compression on number 3 cyl. He pulled the head and everything looked OK so he bought a parts car. He also threw in a new radiator, a good starter, good turbo and all brackets, intake, exaust, etc.
I found the number 3 intake vave adjusting nut was loose and holding the valve open.