Locomotives
 

On a really cold locomotive you shoot about half a can of ether into the air filter room and crank it over the cloud of smoke is so big it casts a shadow. The can is the same size as the camping propane tank. Of course these are 16 cyl engines 9" piston diameter 10.5" stroke 4400 hp

Please.
 

Please; relax, he is young:) , with a steep learning curve ahead.:eek:

Goodness! Yes I meant pushrod not connecting rod.

Never knew there was so much anger here on the forum to a simple work mistake.

Very unfriendly.

My apologies to anyone whom I offended with the wrong word.

BTW my quote regarding the engine needs to be turning WHILE the ether is being injected is NOT my opinion, it is a direct quote of a diesel mechanic book that is well older than me. I am not making this stuff up.

One of the old 4010 John Deere manuals instructs to add the ether when cranking the engine, not before. I think the reason is that they don't want it to build up in the intake or some such. The ether cylinder is near the key, so you can do both at once. No glow plugs on that baby, but below 10 degrees you'd better have plugged her in, or no way will she start.

Omegaman,

Those locomotive engines are 645E3's they have both turbo chargers and superchargers. The non-turbo models run about 3,000 hp. We used many of these in offshore oilfield suply boats. GM boasts that you can change out a complete power pack (head, piston, rings, liner, etc.) in 45 minutes. Maybe yes and maybe no.

We also used 10 cyl. opposed piston Fairbanks-Morse engines. These were also used in locomotives and submarines. Great engines if not a bit complicated.

Check out http://www.histomobile.com/histomob/tech/2/120.htm

Brandon,

Don't pay any attention to most of us here. When a situation like this occurs everyone harrumphs about, kicks sand, and acts highly indignent and then goes off to pick on someone else. The point being that NO ONE on this board came into this world knowing diddly squat about anything least of all engines. We all learned about mechanics exactly the same way you have or will learn. And when you get this point you will also chide the inarticulate, and if you don't you are letting down our side. Besides that it's a lot of fun to get every one stired up.

The problem with the entire discussion is that the amount of ether utilized to start the engine is not specified.

If one would spray about 20 seconds of ether directly into the air cleaner and start the 617, there is every likelihood that damage to the engine may occur. This could be a blown head gasket or, in the worst case, a bent connecting rod.

So, Roy would be correct in his observations of the many diesels that have suffered an untimely demise.

However, if used judiciously, as Brandon has explained, a bit of ether can get you out of a serious jam when it's very dark and very cold.

Brandon would be entirely correct to use a one or two second shot of ether to just get the 617 firing. Damage to the engine with such a small amount would likely be impossible.

So, in conclusion, both Brandon and Roy are correct............the amount of ether is the critical factor.

It's funny that this subject resurfaced AGAIN-just yesterday I was trying to get an old 6.2 NA Suburban started that had been sitting out of fuel for 2 years-used a 6 gallon can of #1, a piece of hose ran right to the fuel lift pump w/a marine primer bulb, squeezed until both hands were sore, both batteries fully charged (AND jumped w/the Dodge's 2 batteries & the Cummins running), cranked & cranked & cranked, ran the burb's block heater for 90 minutes, sprayed WD-40, propped the heat gun into the intake, barely a sputter!!! Got p***ed off, got ether!!!

1 seconds worth into each side of the intake, it kicked back a little on the first 2 compression strokes, started like a champ on the 3rd!! Just like everything else, use some common sense and ONLY AS A LAST RESORT!!!

1966 200d Started with Ether
 

You should read this. This 1966 Mercedes 200D started by the seller with ether after off the road since 1975. This ether is powerful stuff!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1966-Mercedes-200D-Sedan-Diesel-53K-Original-Miles_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6783QQitemZ8022772944QQrdZ1

I was going to ask why you didn't whip out a cell phone camera. You (well your video and the guy doing it) would be world famous! :eek: That's when I noticed the date. :D

Ether.....

As a previous of a tractor dealership let me tell you when a fellow brings in a Kubota (even old ford diesels) with 4 empty cans next to the seat he is spending at least $2500.

All for the want of 4 glow plugs he went and got the poor girl "hooked" on the juice.

Cold start for me is a rag with "some" gas on it waved in front of the intake.

Ether is best used for cleaning parts.

I have a hard time understanding the fear of ether.

I'm in several diesel forums, concerning a variety of diesel engine types and configurations. Most members in all these forums seems to feel that ether is like an elixer of the devil himself (herself? :D)

Ether can be used to start a diesel engine without negative results. Intelligence must accompany the finger that pushes the nozzle on the can. Too much of a good thing is not a good thing. There are lots of ether horror stories, almost all caused from hot GP + ether, or simply too much sprayed into the engine. I've used it for years without any problems. The father-in-law, diesel mechanic for 43+ years, also uses it, and feels the same way about it.

A chainsaw is a wonderful tool. But be careless with it, and bad things are going to happen. Be sensible with it, and you can use it for years and have no problems. Be foolish with it, and you're probably going to damage something (likely yourself).

I'm not trying at all to convince anyone to use ether; if you don't like it or need it, use something else. Just be smart when using it and there won't be any issues.




Just my 2.01c worth.:)

Except the risk of blowing a headgasket.