"Ether", use and abuse. *Flame suit on*
 

Hello Everyone
#A. I am a professional mechanic.
#B. My average use of ether = three cans per year; two are used to clean special parts.
#C. My personal vehicle repair average = 980 too 1700 vehicles per year.

I have used ether on my 300SD twice, following is the description.
Note: My air intake system is OEM.
#1. Open the hood.
#2. Look at the front of the radiator.
#3. Locate the air intake pick-up tube.
#4. Give the air intake pick-up tube a one second shot of ether.
#5. Walk around, get in and start the engine.

You will please note that this way; it is almost impossible to feed excess ether to the engine, the excess will run back out, the weak ether vapor will last only a couple of revolutions.
This will not strip the cylinders.
When done correctly; it would not damage a diesel.
Ether is only to boost start the engine, not run the engine.
Ether vapor is what the engine wants; not liquid ether.
I have considered making a video of how to use ether correctly on a diesel, there are several videos on the market.

Note :D I try to see humor in all situations.
:( I qualified my answer; for the goof that I watched trying to start an Audi diesel (running #2 that jelled), he used three ether cans; straight in the turbo body, witnessed him spray half a can into the turbo body then puncture all three cans to dump the remaining liquid in, even after I warned him.:mad:

:eek: He paid when the front end lifted and oil started oozing out from under the engine, I could not stop laughing as I drove away.
:(Natural law does not forgive an idiot; the repercussions can be fatal to car and driver.



Near fatal... and a warning
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/293600-near-fatal-warning.html


.

It dosen't hurt to have an EMERGENCY can of ether to use as a last option, even I keep one in my car. Still, you must have a working brain to use it properly as whunter does.

I spent my share of time in fields on tractors growing up, and a great many of them have a spot for a can of either built right into the tractor, with a method of injecting it from the cab. It's not immediate diesel death if used correctly.

However a dummy can tear up a rock if given an opertunity..

One must be careful not to use starting fluid or ether on any engine which has a heated intake... that WILL expode. My Ford Diesel tractor is this way and has lots of warning decals on it....
If one disconnects the glow plugs one would have to really work hard to hurt our diesels with normal spraying of starter fluid into the intake tube...

Another consideration in whunter's method is that the one-second worth of ether will be fairly well diluted by the time it reaches the glow plugs. I keep a can around for emergencies, but mostly use it for parts cleaning.

Wolf_walker - regarding rocks, I made a good living at that.....

Cheers,
Wes

Propane does a pretty good job, too -- a friend of my brother's was trying to start his 300CD with propane instead of fixing the problems (when I last saw it running , it needed a glow plug relay --- duh). When the propane ignited, it blew the valve cover off. I shudder to think what else is wrong with the engine!

I'd try to talk him out of it, but the body and interior are bad enough I'd rather not tackle it. That 380 SL he has sitting with no engine (especially if I can find the engine and tranny), now, that's another story!

Ether if very unlikely to substitute for glow plugs in a pre-chamber diesel -- they usually WON'T start cold without them, no matter what highly ignitable stuff you spray down the intake. If the mixture is ignitable on it's own, it burns way too early to help start (usually stalls the starter motor), and if you put enough in there to actually get a decent fire, it will burn WAY too hot!

Peter

hmmm... what about a mist of gasoline. Maybe this will create a precombustion that helps the diesel to begin cumbusting.

Gasoline vapor has the same problem... it will ignite long before the piston reaches the top of its 22:1 compression stroke, stalling the starter.

"Never", gasoline.
 

Hello coachgeo
:eek: "Never", gasoline.

Here is another fools idea you should never try.
I watched a fellow use a torch O2 tank feeding the turbo, the idiot was sure it would be ok, would not listen to advice.
Fastest start that I have ever seen; fastest stop also, :eek: the engine topped 9000+ RPM in 90 seconds.
:D A perfect example of
SNAFU- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up
and
FUBAR- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

Have a great day.

Did you mean to say he used the O2 or the Acet ?

He clamped the hose set over the center of the turbo intake
 

He clamped the hose set over the center of the turbo intake, with no torch head, locked the throttle at full with a hood prop rod on the accelerator pedal, used a remote starter switch to crank it with the key on and opened the O2 bottle at 500 psi, the main acet regulator was leeking, but I do not know how much.
He cranked it and we heard it scream like a jet engine reving up, we all ran out of the shop.
He was running the fuel off a one quart oil can.
Total engine life was 90 seconds, start to finish.
This is a never do, bad idea.

The operative part of what he did wrong may be the ' locked the throttle at full' rather than the introduction of O2..... which , minus the acet, may not make much difference... certainly not enough to make the 9000 rpm's....

methink better to use the ether on oneself instead of ruining an engine:D ;)

These are glow plug engines. If they won't start, find what's wrong and correct it. If the engine isn't worn out and it is a pin type GP engine, a new set of GP's will fix it ninety-five times out of a 100.

These are not farm tractors with no starting aids. In those engines, starting fluid (not ether) is the only choice.

Don't get starting fluid anywhere near a glow plug or manifold heated diesel engine. Just find what's wrong and fix it.

My $0.02,

Clearly one would not use starting fluid for any machine with an intake heater..... that is called as EXPLOSION....

However, a one or two second shot of starting fluid at the intake tube of one of our diesels may help start it .... and I still say has not enough BTU's in the mix to hurt our diesels...

It is perfectly legit to disconnect the glowplugs ( at the relay) before using the starting fluid if one is really worried about this.

I guess I am going to have to clip JimSmith's answers on this from a couple of different threads.... I would have thought that this would be farther towards ' settled ' than our Oil and AC threads .

A short shot isn't going to hurt the glowplugs because it has to go through the air filter AFTER you've walked back to the driver's seat (paper air filter). Which means a short shot is a diluted shot. It's the long shot, especially after a prolonged cranking cycle, that gets folks in trouble. Paste whunter's directions to your can, please.

whunter, you said you ran out of the shop when the welding torch car was started. You don't work there, do you?
;)

Yes; I did work for the fool for three weeks.
 

Hello dabenz
To answer your question:
This happened in the late seventies.
:( Yes; I did work for the fool for three weeks.
When things stopped making noise; I went in, dragged my box out, loaded it in my Ford Mustang, ruined the passenger and rear seat, but my life is to precious to trust around a fool like that.
The fool/shop owner was still laughing about blowing the engine; as I drove away.:mad:
Last I heard; the shop went bankrupt and the owner disappeared.

JimSmith's answers???
 

You never did clip the answers in here.
I looked for them at least twice, with no luck.
Could we recycle this thread for new members...
I know there are some young people = teens here now, who need to aviod this level of danger and cost....

WD40 will also work and it is not as explosive. I have even used it as a primer to start the mower engine in the spring.

I was filling up at the local diesel truck stop one afternoon and pulled into the lane next to a fella trying to start an early 90's Ford diesel pickup with a livestock trailer attached. The truck looked real, real tired. Anyway, he was pouring gasoline into the intake trying to start it. You should have heard the noise due to detonation. I asked him about it and he mumbled something about the excessive mileage on the engine. I filled up, paid and was gone before he ever got it going. I felt sorry for the cows in the trailer:rolleyes:.
I can't say I have ever had to use any kind of starting aids in my diesel MBs but do remember using starting fluid on the farm when I was growing up.

winyer starting
 

whats the best way to be ready for winter and,get good starts with my diesel 300d turbo diesel. :(

What is starting fluid. then?
 

I was under the impression that starting fluid WAS ether.

If it isn't, what is it? It smells like ether to me.

What is it, answer...
 

This is the html version of the file http://www.sharecorp.com/msds/8550StartingFluid.pdf.
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To link to or bookmark this page, use the following url: http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:Gt42BI5o9a4J:www.sharecorp.com/msds/8550StartingFluid.pdf+starting+fluid&hl=en

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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Page 1
MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET Share Corporation P.O. Box 245013 Milwaukee, WI 53224
GENERAL INFORMATION NUMBER: (414) 355-4000 EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBER: (800) 776-7192
REVISION DATE: April 9, 2002 CHEMTREC: (800) 424-9300 DATE OF ISSUE: May 2, 2002I - Product IdentificationStarting Fluid PRODUCT CODE: 8550

CHEMICAL FORMULATION:
Pressurized diethyl ether based engine starter.
NFPA HAZARD IDENTIFICATION SYSTEM:
HEALTH: 2
FLAMMABILITY: 4
REACTIVITY: 1
HAZARD RATING:4 - Extreme; 3 - High; 2 - Moderate; 1 - Slight; 0 - InsignificantII - Hazardous IngredientsValues reported as TWA unless noted.

EPA 40 CFR: SUBSTANCEAPPROX %OSHA PELACGIH TLV302 355 372 CAS #
Diethyl Ether 40.0-50.0 400 ppm 400 ppm Y N N 60-29-7
Heptane, related light hydrocarbons 40.0-50.0 400 ppm 400 ppm N N N 142-82-5
Mineral Oil, severely hydrotreated < 1.0 500 ppm N/E N N N 64742-53-6
Carbon Dioxide 4.00-7.00 10,000 ppm 5000 ppm N N N 124-38-9 Key: PEL:
Permissible Exposure Limit TLV: Threshold Limit Value C: Ceiling level STEL:
Short Term Exposure Limit N/A: Not Applicable N/D: Not Determined N/E: Not Established Y: Yes N: No 302: CERCLA List of Hazardous Substances and Reportable Quantities (40 CFR 302.4). 355: SARA TITLE III / List of Extremely Hazardous Substances for Emergency Planning and Notification (40 CFR 355). 372: SARA TITLE III / List of Toxic Chemicals subject to Release Reporting (Community Right to Know) (40 CFR 372). III - Physical Data BOILING POINT (°F): 94, for Diethyl ether SPECIFIC GRAVITY (WATER = 1): 0.70 VAPOR PRESSURE (mm Hg): N/D VOC CONTENT (% by weight): 85.0 – 95.0 VAPOR DENSITY (AIR = 1): 2.5 EVAPORATION RATE (WATER = 1): > 1.0SOLUBILITY IN WATER: Slight pH: N/A APPEARANCE AND ODOR: Pale yellow to clear liquid, strong ethereal odor. IV - Fire and Explosion Hazard DataFLASH POINT (°F): < -56 (TEST METHOD):T.C.C. NFPA 30B Rating: 3 FLAMMABLE LIMITS IN AIR (VOLUME %)UPPER: 48.0 LOWER: 1.8 EXTINGUISHING MEDIA: Foam, carbon dioxide, dry chemical. SPECIAL FIRE FIGHTING PROCEDURES: Avoid possible accumulations of vapors at floor level, as vapor is heavier than air. Cool fire exposed containers with water fog. Firefighters should be equipped with full protective gear including self-contained breathing apparatus. UNUSUAL FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARD: Contents under pressure! Exposure to temperatures above 120oF may cause bursting. Extremely flammable.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Page 2
PRODUCT NAME: Starting Fluid PRODUCT CODE: 8550 V - Reactivity DataSTABILITY: Unstable explosive peroxides may be formed and concentrate by evaporation to hazardous levels. This process is favored by prolonged storage with exposure to air and light. Product is generally stable in sealed metal containers. INCOMPATIBILITY: Strong acids and oxidizers. CONDITIONS TO AVOID: Excess heat, open flame sparks. HAZARDOUS DECOMPOSITION PRODUCTS: Thermal decomposition may produce oxides of carbon. HAZARDOUS POLYMERIZATION: Will not occur. CONDITIONS TO AVOID: None VI - Health Hazard DataROUTES OF ENTRY INHALATION: X EYE CONTACT:SKIN CONTACT: X INGESTION:INGREDIENTS THAT ARE CONSIDERED BY OSHA, NTP, IARC TO BE SUSPECTED HUMAN CARCINOGENS: None EFFECTS OF OVEREXPOSUREIF IN EYES: Irritation. IF ON SKIN: Irritation, defatting and dermatitis with prolonged or repeated exposure. IF SWALLOWED: Gastrointestinal irritation, nausea, cramps, diarrhea. May be harmful or fatal if swallowed. IF INHALED: : Dizziness, strong anesthesia, intoxication, loss of consciousness.EMERGENCY AND FIRST AID PROCEDURES IF IN EYES: Flush eyes and under eyelids with plenty of cool water for at least 15 minutes. If irritation persists, obtain medical attention. IF ON SKIN: Remove contaminated clothing and wash with soap and water. IF SWALLOWED: Contact physician or poison control center immediately. Do not induce vomiting. Proper treatment is dependent upon condition of patient and amount ingested. IF INHALED: Remove person to fresh air. If breathing has stopped, administer artificial respiration. Obtain medical attention. VII - Spill or Leak ProtectionSTEPS TO BE TAKEN IF MATERIAL IS RELEASED OR SPILLED: Ventilate area and remove all sources of ignition. CO2may be used as a precautionary blanket. Soak up material with inert absorbent material and place in a labeled closed container for disposal. WASTE DISPOSAL METHOD: Consult local environmental authorities. Dispose of cans in non-incinerated trash only. VIII - Special Protection InformationRESPIRATORY PROTECTION: Use with adequate ventilation. Do not breathe vapors or mists. If recommended Exposure Limits are exceeded, wear a NIOSH approved respirator, following manufacturer’s recommendations. VENTILATION LOCAL: Recommended MECHANICAL: Not required PROTECTIVE GLOVES: Chemical resistant. EYE PROTECTION: Safety glasses or goggles. OTHER PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT: None. PRECAUTIONS TO BE TAKEN IN HANDLING AND STORAGE: Store in a cool, dry place away from heat or open flame. OTHER PRECAUTIONS: Keep out of reach of children. Do not puncture or incinerate container. IX - Transportation Information (ground transportation only)DOT PROPER SHIPPING NAME: Consumer Commodity DOT CLASS: ORM-D DOT ID NUMBER: NoneDOT PACKING GROUP: None The shipping information listed above applies only to non-bulk (< 119 gallons) containers of this product. This product may have more than one proper shipping name depending on packaging, product properties, & mode of shipment. If any alteration of packaging, product, or mode of transportation is further intended, different shipping names and labeling may apply. REVISION DATE: April 9, 2002 Prepared by: PMR DATE OF ISSUE: May 2, 2002 This information contained herein is based on data considered accurate. However, no warranty is expressed or implied regarding the accuracy of this data or the results to be obtained from the use thereof. Share Corporation assumes no responsibility for personal injury or property damage to the vendee, users or third parties caused by the material such vendees or users assume all risks associated with the use of this material.

I was taught to put a little gasoline on the corner of a rag and spray the starting fluid on the same corner of the rag. With the air cleaner open as someone attempts to start the engine the other person lowers the corner of the rag to the air intake to allow the engine to ingest the vapors from the corner of the rag. When the engine hits you slowly pull the rag away from the intake and keep it just close enough to keep the engine running until it will run on its own. I have seen this done so that the engine starts normally with no horrendous clacking noises like I have heard when starting fluid or gasoline is fed into the intake.

In cold weather be very careful not to get gasoline or starting fluid on exposed skin, frostbite can ensue before you know that you did any damage. You may have frostbite before you feel it. These liquids do not freeze at any atmospheric temperature and can supercool your skin on contact to far below freezing temperatures. The difference between frostbite and hypothermia is that frostbite is frozen skin. Hypothermia is cooling of your core body temperature, hypothermia is a life-threatening condition and can kill very quickly. Have a happy winter.

A month or so ago I began using my block heater every night, set the timer to come on at about 4:30AM and that was fine, now with the onset of colder nights, now dropping into the low 30 degree range, the temp guage barely registers any amount of heat from the block heater.

Question: Should I suspect the block heater eliment may be mostly shot and needs to be replaced?

I do keep a can of ether in the trunk as a last resort but never really thought about how to apply it for starting. I remember many many years ago as a kid hearing it was a no no for diesels but have since seen a few to use it, but until reading this thread, I never did know the limitations using it!

Thank you Whunter :sun_smile for bringing back awareness. This thread should be posted annually for the many newbies unaware!

BB

That's exactly what it should do. When it is down below 30 degrees, the amount of heat from the block heater is not sufficient to raise the temperature of the entire engine much above 80 degrees or so. But, that is all you need. Think about starting the engine in 80 degree weather. You don't want to spend any more electric than that.

Now, if the block heater is not working, you will know it when the temp gets down below 20 degrees. If it cranks for ten seconds and starts with a cloud of smoke and runs rough for 15 seconds or so, then the block heater is not working. If is starts like it's 80 degrees outside, it's working fine.

Ether or Block Heater?
 

As a young boy I grew up in a large logging community. My father owned the only Service Station in 20 miles of the largest town. We serviced about a 100 Log Trucks, it was common to see a can of ether or starting fluid in a Diesel Log Truck. Loggers kept alot of it in there service trucks to start there Logging Skidders. We used it to some degree, but not much. My father always told me that too much could "lock up" the engine or "blow it up", besides being "harmful" to you. We normally just used our Block Heaters in our Ford F-250's at our shop. I've seen too much Ether blown into the air intakes, and the engines start "violently". The Block Heaters are the safer way to start a "Cold" Diesel engine. If that's not helping you've got more problems, such as the "glow plugs". I've had my 300 SDL for 2 years and have never blown any starting fluid or ether into it and I sure don't plan on it.

Charcoal starter
 

Years ago I saw some guys use charcoal in a pan to heat up the engine enough to start it, yes, it was a diesel, a semi with a Cat engine. The charcoal was started and let burn to white edges and then they slid it under the truck. Well, it did start, and no one got hurt! But, I was amazed.

DS
87 300 D

This works very well.
 

But you must have a BRAIN to do it in a safe manner. :eek:

There are too many DANGEROUS FOOLS in the world for me to ever suggest doing this. :(

I watched one try to use this procedure on a Mack, near the Mackinaw bridge, he let it warm for an hour, then got out a can of ETHER, started spraying the intake, some dripped down to the charcoal, the blast threw him ten feet, and burned his snow suit and face mask. :eek: :(

Some people are DANGEROUS FOOLS, soon to be DEAD FOOLS. :(

Sort of a fun thread. Brings back memories of the old wrecking yard I worked in while attending college. Saw more numskulls out there starting cars with acetylene and with oxegen, propane, pouring gas into carbs, paint, paint thinner, even once trying to get a car started by grinding up an M80 and sifting it into the carb. Saw several cars they got running and poured crap into the intakes until the engine either grenaded or usually just seized.
That dump did have a few diesel tractors. The yard rats wasted them quickly enough with starter fluid, and of course all the other stuff.
Was the best day of my like whem I escaped there. Funny what a guy will do to survive some times.

The new fast glow kit Phil has on sale at Fastlane made a world of differance in the 76 240d, of course I tested the old glow plugs and it appears I only had one working correctly, two partialy and one not at all and it is only mid 30's here at night.

The 74 240d I just got takes the longest to start that I have seen, aprox 45 second glow three to four times before ignition and the glow plugs look new but something is not right.
Oh well, time to check glow plugs, wiring and valves I guess.

Starting fluid works well for the right occasions, I have used it to start things that have been sitting for years but always as carefully as possible.
The ford tractor will barely start in the summer without it and never in the winter(no glow plugs) but it is very worn.
I have used it on the suburban when the injection pump was failing and wd-40 just was not enough.
The 6.2 in the boat had been sitting for a while before I put it in the boat and needed either to start the first time.
I guess what I am saying is keep it away from ignition sources like glow plugs and it is handy to have around, works real well on the chainsaw/weedeater you have not started snce last season and forgot to put fuel conditioner in.

I also have a friend with a 6.2 in his boat, injection pump is getting very weak and he has to start it on gas every day. He takes a rag soaked in gas and holds it stretched over the intake and does not turn the motor off til he is finished for the day. He claims that holding the rag tight is very important since he has had to fish it out of the intake before :eek: I guess he was lucky it did not start that time!

No I don't use starting fluid on the mercedes but that is probobly the only way we got the 76 started when I first got it and it had been sitting for several years but that is another story.

Some of the old 70s KWs (Kenworths) I used to drive had a place under the hood for a can of either, connected to a switch in the dash to aid in cold starting. This was with cranked up 400 Cummins. Then again, we only got a little over 200K out of those engines (not to great for that particular engine), but they were ran VERY hard, all the time.

We also had block heaters we'd plug in every night, but it gets cold out in Utah, so...

2 cents for an old thread.
 

the previous owner of my '83 300D turbo had trouble starting the car...
going through my restoration work, i had the starter rebuilt. the shaft was bent! the guy who rebuilt my starter thinks it was due to someone trying to start the car using ether. i came to believe this when i noticed the previous owner of my car did not ream out the prechambers causing the glow plugs to overheat/groundout and blowing the 80 amp fuse at the timer relay. their fix was to bridge the 80 amp terminals with a piece of copper house wire. i was horrified after finding all this. now the gp's are new, prechambers reamed and 80 amp fuse in place, not blowing and best of all the timer wasn't fried. incidentally i also found many hex-head screws on the car that were stripped because the mechanic servicing the car for the previous owner used torx bits on them instead of hex bits... need i say more???

Yeah when my 240D wouldn't start last winter, my father advised me to squirt almost an entire can of ether directly into the hole inside of the air cleaner.

msds
 

"unstable explosive peroxides" is one of the key phrases in the msds. Unstable explosive peroxides is what the space shuttle's use in their steering engines. The forum member who said "wd-40" is giving sound advice, if you are bound and determined to use any vapors to help start your engine.

Is that when your oil filler cap hit you in the head?:D :P :D signed the Cantankerous, Dogmatic, Ford Pinto

No, but it was when I wound up having it towed into town to have the gelled diesel removed from the fuel system. The guy driving the tow truck backed the front end of the car into the side of my garage. Surprisingly enough, the 240 was none worse-for-wear, and the garage took all of the abuse.

Tis the season, new members.
 

Please read the whole thread, it may save your engine or your life.

In my neck of the woods starting fluid and ether are the same thing. Also hard to fix things when you are out in the middle of a parking lot late at night. A can of starting fluid will get you home if used as described in the first post. I have done it several times when it is very cold here and the loop style plugs let me down even though there is nothing wrong with the plugs themselves.

The safer answer is to use WD40.
 

The safer answer is to use WD40.

A three second spray of WD40; up the front air intake tube going to your filter, this has far lower risk to the engine.

In sub zero (-6F to -50F) Michigan weather, I have pulled the air filter on many medium/heavy trucks (gas & diesel), give the exterior of air filter a very light coat of WD40, install it quick, and crank, if the fuel is not JELLO it starts easy.

The trick is to keep a small can of WD40 in the car at all times, and squirt before you run the battery down.

I will "NOT" spray anything directly into the intake!!!

I'll share my story for sake of figuring out WD-40..

One night I was trying to leave school, probably about 7pm..dark outside and in the low 40's. I jumped in the 300SD and glowed it...and tried to start.

Crank crank crank and nothing...wasn't catching enough to get buisness done and the battery was draining down fast. (My batt is weak it seems).

Before the battery was totally dead, I tried the wd-40 trick and all it did was SLOW DOWN my engine when I gave the intake tube a little whiff...it was acting like a fire extinguisher.

I tried a few other chems I had in the trunk but it was too late. Wouldn't barely crank over.

Called around, finally got one of dad's friends to come up and give me a jump start...he brough a can of ether and I gave it a little blow in the intake as whunter described. No problems at all and it started right up with a little clatter at the begging.

The problem ended up being that I had 1 glow plug left in working order and the rest were toast.

From now on I always keep a can of ether in the trunk just incase I get in the same situation again. I have since corrected all problems (apart from the battery...the verdict isn't out on that POS yet) but when I am an hour or two from home and I need to be going...nothing will keep me from giving her a little shot of wake up juice to get going rather than have to arrange a tow or something of the sort.

There is a time and place for everything.

WD-40 doesn't seem to cut the cheese anymore? I hear word of no propane in it anymore and it doesn't seem to burn so well when I spray it though a flame..sorta just hisses...

So wd-40 might be out...

starting prime with diesels
 

Yes, WD-40 is sufficient and, I believe, not harmful to the engine in the least. I think researching the literature would show the flash temps and flash pressures to be quite close to diesel fuel. I first saw the wd-40 suggestion from tom w and have used it with good result. Plus the lubricating propertie's of wd-40 will not wash down cylinder walls and exposed valve stems, as ether does. So,essentially keeps those parts lubricated until the engine fires.

I still think the safest approach, assuming you have a nearby household electric source, is to aim a blowdryer or heat gun into the air intake.

THsi thread reminds me of wheni worked on a boat with dual V-12 Cummins. I mean these engines would sind in the boat surrounded by cool water and fed cool fuel. They had hotstarts which heat the engine oil up before starting but most of the time we needed to spray a decent amount of ether into the intake to get those puppies fired off. But when the fired up finally it had the most amazeing rumble to them. Ahhhhh. Waking up at 3 in the morning to those fireing. Strait piped. Oh also to the high RPM screaming jimmy generators. Ahh good times... Good times.

i have never used wd 40 as
 

a substitute for ether.

i use it to start an engine which has lost bleed.

i am glad folks have had success using it for starting. it is no substitute for proper worknig glow plugs. when it is cold and the glows dont work the only way to start them is to get it warm in a garage or pull them to work up a higher rpm which will start them under any circumstances as long as they have fuel and compression.

i have used ether but only a very short whiff outside the air cleaner. with the wd40 you need to spray inside the air cleaner. it wont go thru the filter.

good luck.

tom w

I agree
 

I will have to agree with Larry. It was 16 degrees this morning. I started my 300d and my buddies 82 6.2 Chevy with no trouble . Niether vehicles block heater was plugged in. There is also straight summer blend fuel oil in them. The mercedes motor is in good shape. But the 6.2 is suffering with bad injectors and a weak injection pump. I guess my point is even if your vehicle is only in fair shape as long as the battery and glow plugs are in good working condition and the filters are not clogged, it will start.

I will go on to say that most people mistake frozen filters with gelled fuel. In most cases water builds up in the filters over the summer and then freezes. It does not take much water to freeze a fuel system. I run straight FO year round. When it gets below 0 degrees. I put conditioner in my storage tank. Except for the gallon or two of motor oil in the thank, thats it. I have been running my diesels this way for more then five years and have never gelled any fuel. We have many a night below -25 degrees up here.

Starting fluid is popping up in threads again.
 

Starting fluid is popping up in threads again.:(

as my dad once said
 

"it may be foolproof (son) but it is not damned fool proof".

tom w

The problem with ether is that when you have introduced it into the engine and the glow plugs light up, you risk the head blowing off the engine. As soon as the glow plug heats up the ether does what its supposed to, explode. If you have enough, then boom. Tractors and class 8 tractors may come from the factory with ether systems, but they are desiged for it and will not blow the head off.

As may have been said in this thread NEVER use ether in an engine that has working glow plugs. If any of your plugs work disconnect the relay or pull the fuse, etc. Once the engine is running you can reconnect the glow plugs. I don't know how much compression pressure ether will develop in an engine but it is enough to bend a rod and that is a lot of pressure.