Hello all. I just spent about 3 hours getting a very valuable education from all of you while searching this site. So for that I offer HUGE thanks.

While I did find a discussion on the SLS, my particular symptoms were not there. the car rides extremely bouncy. At first I thought it was the seats (very bouncy also). I am not a small man (6'3" 260#) and thought a combination of my size and the worn seats but I am leaning more twards the SLS. I also noticed that if I hit a bump on one side of the car it feels normal, but if the bump spans both tires, I am nearly lifted out of my seat, no matter how slow I go. (my only true complaint with the car)

Brief history:
bought the car in DEC for $2,300 with some issues.
Issues:
heater motor intermitent (a new brush kit is awaiting the weekend to install)
power windows inoperative for d-f, d-r, p-r (still needs troubleshooting)
bad acc belt shock and noisy idler pulley (already R&R)
still has Trap OXidizer (appointment with dealer for wed feb 11th to have it replaced)
It does take a littel bit to get started in cold (below freezing) weather, but once started, it runs smoothly and quiet with bunches of gettyup.

All of the other "watch for" items seem ok.

We would like to put in a CD player. I attempted to install one and stopped short when I followed the wiring to the (inoperative) fader control. This does not appear to be wired in the usual fashion. The rear speakers seem to be direct wired and the front seem to be on a chassis ground. If anyone has any suggestions on how to hook a normal 4 channel stereo I would love to hear from you.

Well thats the abbreviated story. I look forward to any replies.

Dean

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Bouncy ride means you need to replace the accumulators.

When installing an aftermarket stereo, most people rewire completely and leave out the MB fader. As you found, the stock wiring scheme is "unusual" and most head units have a built in fader control.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

thanks for the reply! If you were to give the lob a difficulty rating from 1-10 for a person with better than average mechanical skills what would you give it?

Is there any advice for replacing the accumulators? I have my tech manual cd's on order, would this procedure be covered on the cd rom's?

I'm just full of questions aren't I?

just finished the morning coffee and kinda hyper :-)

dean

Try a search for "accumulator" for all the info you need. Here's one to get you started: shawnster.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Hello deanot442
Replace your glow plugs soonest.

Installing a CD is a waste of time; until you have the bounce issue resolved.

Your windows; first thing to do is pull the switches, disassemble and clean the contacts.
Most of the time it is the switch.

As to the four channel stereo, install from scratch, ignore OEM wiring, run your own fused wires from the battery to stereo and stereo to the speakers.

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It's the accumulators. I just replaced both of them on my 123 wagon and it comepletely changed the ride characteristics from a harsh, bumpy ride to one wher the car literally floats over abrupt road features.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

To replace the accumulators, put the rear up on jackstands, leaving the rear wheels hanging. Suspension will droop badly when you open the lines to the accumulators, so DON'T get under it on the ground and open the lines.

Remove the carpet panel between the rear and third seat (or cargo compartment) -- there are two screws hidden in the carpet, and several (three I think) along the rear edge. It will be stuck, and is a sheetmetal cover, so go gently to avoid bending it.

Underneath, clean the fittings and remove the lines to the accumulators. Remember which one goes where, and have a drain pan handy, you will drain about a quart total of fluid out. Wheels will drop when you open things up. You must remove some of the lines at both ends as I remember.

Once the lines are off, unbolt the accumulators underneath and remove from the top. Drop the new ones in, then start the lines back in after installing but not tighening the retainer bolts -- be very carefull not to crossthread the fittings. Snug up the retainer bolts and tighten the hydraulic lines, then drop the car and start the engine.

Get a pair of large friends (or all the kids and the dog) in the back of the wagon -- should droop, then lift up to normal ride height. Fill the reservior up front with MB fluid ONLY -- do not substitute, please. Check for air bubbles coming from the return line -- if there are a lot, you will need to top up again after all the air works out.

Drive for a while, then check for leaks.

The worst part of the job is getting the lines started correctly -- this is a bit fiddly. Took me a couple tries to get them all started on both ends.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Whunter. Good advice on the glow plugs. The car came with 2 complete sets of brand new bosch GP, and installed a set the first day.

The guy also sold with the car a case of oil filters, 4 extra rims with ok tires on them (snows on the car now) an extra becker radio, (current one is missing the rewind button) a new ps filter, and 2 fuel filters (pri and sec).

I have put in all but the fuel filters, there is a date on them of sept 03. (he said he put the install date on the filters when he changed them out)

As far as the radio, that looks like the best route. is there a source for replacement speakers?


Dean

psfred. Holy cow. thank you for the info. you just saved me a whole bunch of headaches.

I just priced out the accumulators locally and found some for $90 each. From what i have found today, thats the best price going so far. I'll try your procedure this weekend.

thanks again.
Dean

Hello deanot442
Your name should be Lucky.
You really do need to date the filters when installed.

Thousands of sources for replacement speakers, I use cheap radio shack, the wife says all I listen to is elevator music or talk radio.

Wow.

124s must be really different from the 123 wagon. I did my whole accumulator replacement from underneath the car.

I jacked it up, put it on stands and left the wheels hanging... bled system at the load sensing valve (used a small rubber tube to drain the old SLS gook into a tub) bleeder valve.

I left the valve open and started the engine to pump the most of the remaining fluid into the collection tub. Shut the engine off before running the reservoir dry. Then, let car down onto wheels to expell the remainder of the fluid in the cylinders.

The system should be at a zero pressure state now.

Put car back on stands and R&R accumulators from underneath car. Close bleeder valve on positioning valve. Yes, the fittings are kind fiddly and hard to get at with long box-end wrenches.

Removed pump fluid supply line (big braided tube that runs from bottom of reservoir to pump) from pump and drained the remaining fluid. Replace filter. Reattach line to pump.

Fill reservoir with MBZ approved fluid and go!

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.