|
|
|
|
|
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
|
Plantman,
I did a resistance test on my '80 300SD with a known open GP. I was right, you have to remove to GP connector (the larger of the two) from the GP relay to get correct readings. If you don't remove the connector, you are reading the parallel resistance of all the GP and you will not be able to find the bad GP either with a test light or an ohmeter. P E H |
|
#17
|
||||
|
||||
|
Cool......I'm glad it works.
Is this particular way to check the Glow plugs a popular one? Is it more or less accurate than other methods. I have never used a meter. but this way sure seems a lt easier. Maybe it's me, nut I have never read about this one on the board. Thanks
__________________
Enough about me, how are you doing? |
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
|
It did it again
Afetr only three days of good starting the glow light decided that it did not want to operate again. The car once again is hard to start. For two days after the original three the glow light was off but the car started, yet ran rough as though not all cylinders were hot but smoothed out after ten or fifteen seconds. This morning it hardly started at all.....HELP
PAUL |
|
#19
|
|||
|
|||
|
Paul,
When the engine won't start, check that the GP relay is working. Put your test light on each GP to see if each one is getting voltage. The one end of the test light must be to a good ground to do this ad the other end to the GP. The GP relay should energize the GP for about 45 seconds before turning off regardless wether the GP indicator is off or on. Also check the fuse in the GP relay. They are known to be intermittant. P E H |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
|
|