Just wondering in case mine are too far out to turn. I measured with micro and was a bit under spec. Of course after a few beers I could be wrong. I am in fear of getting a rotor from autozone or advance. Don't want to get a cheap rotor.

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

experience with these? ATE power disc. I was thinking of going with a drilled or slotted rotor. Heavy cars like this tend to heat brakes up and warp rotors. I kind of live in the mountains.

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

check out www.***********************

great prices on rotors and brakes.......great selection as well

i just did my rear rotors and pads...when i will be doing the front i will definitely change to the cross/drilled/slotted rotors

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Audi TT

I got all new brake disk from here at Fastlane.

Do a search for my name and you'll read a bit about the adventure.

If you have a 300D, TD etc. then prepaire to R&R your front wheel bearings cause they have to come off to change the disk out.

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"If anyone knows other lessons I need to learn, please tell me. I'm tired of learning them the hard way".
by JerryBro

The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue

My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels

As per MB specs, rotors are never to be turned, they are to be replaced when normally you would turn them. At about $35 each, they are cheap enough....

Coach,
Why coudn't you reuse your seal and bearings?

Benzcrusher,
Where are you getting rotors for $35?

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

Drivers side had metal shavings in it so I replaced both sides. This is why I said be "prepared" in case you have to. If you have to replace any bearings take the hub to an auto machine shop and have them press the bearing races out. They might as well put the new races in for ya while there at it.

__________________
"If anyone knows other lessons I need to learn, please tell me. I'm tired of learning them the hard way".
by JerryBro

The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue

My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels

Never reuse the seals. If the bearings are discolored after you clean them thoroughly discard. You can repack them if they are ok but they are relatively cheap so why not just throw new ones on especially if you put on other new parts.
G luck

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72 W114/M130

RedMeat cartoon

Try Fastlane, I think mine were less than that last year.

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

I just bought Zimmerman rotors and PBR deluxe pads for the E300 from Fastlane and they're wonderful. Don't bother with drilled or slotted rotors unless you're racing. Drilled rotors will crack at the holes, and either version will grab bits of road debris and use it to chew up your pads.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

I got new rotors from Rick @ OEM for $38. Kind of hard to track down the bearings local. Going to put all new stuff in. It would be stupid to have the races pressed out of the old rotors and into the new.

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

The rotors are a seperate piece from the hub (where the races go) aren't they?

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

I was just thinking about that as I was on the "throne" (where all good ideas come) I'll have to see when I get them. I have bought rotors both ways before. I was kind of bumming about spending that much money because I am not going back to work until May. BUT, I got 2 new rotors, new brakes, new sensors and new bearings and seals for around $120. At least I know everything is new.

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

I got my rear rotors and pads from Fastlane, got them in 2 days and the price was right. I am going to try those ATE power discs when I do my front brakes in a year or so. MB rotors are on the front now.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

rotors on these cars are a tough job to do without a vice and some god leverage. plus, then its hard to be 100% sure the bearing is tightened on right.

That said, these unvented rotors should probably be replaced at 100k of normal use.

JMH

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)