Instrument Cluster / Cruise Control Questions - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

DieselFitter · #1 04-04-2004, 02:54 PM

Dear Diesel Demons:

I picked up a replacement cluster (mine's got a speedo with a dead odomoter and is desperate need of "reconditioning") for my recently-resurrected (see The Dream is Over: Should I rebuild her? for the full story) 1983 300D and I need some advice on:

1) Paint for the gauge needles. Was the original color a fluorescent orange or...? I picked up some fluorescent paint but it's red (looks orange to me) and I wonder if this will look strange. Someone on this board suggested Testor's #1127 Orange but it's not fluorescent. Am I making WAY too much of this?

2) Has anyone used the new Eurolite 194 LED bulb in their cluster? Any feedback?

3) Any suggestions on bench-checking various components in the cluster to confirm function BEFORE I install it in the dash?

I also bought a replacement cruise control amp and was wondering if anyone knows of a source for the correct replacement Bosch brake bulbs. Apparently, I'm not supposed to just pop a standard 1194 bulb in there, eh?

Finally, anyone know what would cause one of my turn signals to blink faster than another? Would this be along the same line as the brake light bulb issue? It's possible the guys who repaired my car used the wrong bulb in the right front signal...

All best,

Diesel Fitter

wolf_walker · #2 04-04-2004, 03:17 PM

I used Testors 1371, it's more red than orange, but I really like it with the black gauge faces. Needles are delicate, be careful with them.

You can install each gauge section seperatly to check for function if your careful. Like the temp, oil pressure and fuel level, just sit the assembly in there and hook it up. Same with the speedo and tach, you just have to take care with them. You may need a seperate littel ground wire when doing this, though I don't think I did. It's a little faster than putting the whole cluster in and out, though once you do it a few times, it's not too hard.
For the speedo, if your fixing an odometer for instance, you can rig an electric drill with an old speedo shaft to run the speedometer and odometer and such. Tip: 60mph should show a mile every 60 seconds on the odometer.
Beware removeing gauge needles, they bend easily and have no reference marks for reinstalling them.

Sylvania I know makes a standard euro buld, autozone or wherever should carry them. Look it up on there little computer or in a catalog. Though I don't believe the correct bulbs are that important, all it does is pull a ground through there.

Have fun..

81Wagon · #3 04-04-2004, 03:21 PM

1) I used Testors #1175 Neon Red, recommended by someone else here. Definitely looks more orange than red, though. The needles look great when repainted :-).

2) Never tried LED bulbs in the cluster. I've tried them elsewhere a few times and was quite disappointed by their brightness (or rather lack thereof!). But you can't necessarily apply that to the dash lights... for ten bucks it might be worth experimenting. At least you can be sure they won't cause your cluster to start melting the way the dash light "upgrade" from **************.com does ;-).

3) Can't help you there. Pulling/installing the cluster is simple though, it's not like you'll have blown three hours of work if you pop it in and discover the new speedo doesn't work.

I also bought a replacement cruise control amp and was wondering if anyone knows of a source for the correct replacement Bosch brake bulbs. Apparently, I'm not supposed to just pop a standard 1194 bulb in there, eh?

The bulb thing is a myth, just make sue your bulbs are working. how much did your replacement amp cost? I still have some annoying surging that I can't get rid of and I've decided to go with an aftermarket cruise control by Rostra; it's cheaper than a new cruise amp and I'd be getting a completely new, modernized cruise control...

I would check your bulbs for that turn signal thing. I doubt the brand matters, just make sure someone didn't accidentally put the wrong bulb type in there and that none are burned out.

dmorrison · #4 04-04-2004, 03:41 PM

Here's my instrument cluster with Testors orange flouresent #PACRC78.

Dave

wolf_walker · #5 04-04-2004, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 81Wagon
I still have some annoying surging that I can't get rid of and I've decided to go with an aftermarket cruise control by Rostra; it's cheaper than a new cruise amp and I'd be getting a completely new, modernized cruise control...

Have you seen my cruise amp thread?

I still think an aftermarket cruise is a better option in the long run myself. I'm curious if there going to be able to pull all that throttle lincage though. Please post your experience with you!

81Wagon · #6 04-04-2004, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by wolf_walker
Have you seen my cruise amp thread?

I still think an aftermarket cruise is a better option in the long run myself. I'm curious if there going to be able to pull all that throttle lincage though. Please post your experience with you!

I'm the one who asked you if it was possible to solder through the rosin stuff on the circuit board. Soldering didn't help anything, and even if it had I'd be constantly worried the CC would flake out again (I'm doing a big road trip this summer, it would suck to be stuck without CC if it failed during the trip!). Those parts are as old as I am!

I've decided on the Rostra unit because it has an electric actuator and not a vacuum one... Hopefully it's strong enough. I'll definitely post the results here. Should have it in a few weeks if I can dig up the $250...

WANT '71 280SEL · #7 04-04-2004, 05:03 PM

You guys are saying taht you remove the needle from the gauge to paint them? It was my understanding from Pindelski's website that you just use paper between the needle and the gauge face. I don't know what you use to not paint the black center piece. (Mine's chrome on a w116).
Thanks
David

wolf_walker · #8 04-04-2004, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by WANT '71 280SEL
You guys are saying taht you remove the needle from the gauge to paint them? It was my understanding from Pindelski's website that you just use paper between the needle and the gauge face. I don't know what you use to not paint the black center piece. (Mine's chrome on a w116).
Thanks
David

You can leave them on to paint them, I did with my speedo.
Just a general warning that there fragile. I cleaned mine with alcohol beforehand as well.

wolf_walker · #9 04-04-2004, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 81Wagon
I'm the one who asked you if it was possible to solder through the rosin stuff on the circuit board. Soldering didn't help anything, and even if it had I'd be constantly worried the CC would flake out again (I'm doing a big road trip this summer, it would suck to be stuck without CC if it failed during the trip!). Those parts are as old as I am!

I've decided on the Rostra unit because it has an electric actuator and not a vacuum one... Hopefully it's strong enough. I'll definitely post the results here. Should have it in a few weeks if I can dig up the $250...

Ok, gotcha. I plan on eventually trying a vacuum setup again, as there a bit cheaper. But there may just be no cheap way out of this.

I'm also pretty sure you can make use of the stock cruise stalk, but it will take a little creative wireing.

lietuviai · #10 04-04-2004, 07:59 PM

Hey, the Rostra has a three year warranty.

wolf_walker · #11 04-04-2004, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by lietuviai
Hey, the Rostra has a three year warranty.

It's darn expensive though. The units through JC Whitney I've been using are about $100. I'm wondering if I can make one work with the OEM electric cruise servo..

81Wagon · #12 04-04-2004, 09:23 PM

The warranty is definitely another selling point :-).

Quote:

It's darn expensive though. The units through JC Whitney I've been using are about $100. I'm wondering if I can make one work with the OEM electric cruise servo..

It looks like $120 for the cheapest I could find there... and of course, it's got a vacuum actuator. You get what you pay for - I'd cough up the extra hundred bucks for what seems to be a higher quality product.

On a related note, does anyone know how many pulses per mile the vss puts out to the cruise control in our 123's? I think it's about 8,000, but I'm not sure... It would be nice if I could hook into the original wiring for that signal instead of mounting magnets onto my drive shaft!

#13 04-15-2004, 07:10 PM

my 300d has no cruise at all.

so i'm lucky to not have to deal with the tempermental factory unit

or am I

anyone tried the Rostra unit on a non cc equipped 300D

any advice would be helpful

Mr Goodfahrt · #14 04-15-2004, 09:05 PM

Heres the link to my cluster repair ordeal. I also use the bright orange testors. It looks great and has held up all winter. The original color was a bright yellow I think. The odometor also is still working fine.

The clock can be tested with any 12v source. Even a 9volt battery will work for the test.

I do not like the bluish color quality of the high intensity bulbs. I prefer the warmer looking originals and have taken the brighter ones out. The tiny reostats never seem to work right. I soldered a small jumper wire on the back of the control so it is on the full setting all of the time.

My Successful Cluster Fix Saga - TIPS and NEWBIE MISTAKES

Good Luck... you just saved a bunch of $$$ and now you can figure you fuel mileage!

zbenz · #15 04-15-2004, 09:56 PM

Just take the CC amp out and clean the board repeatedly with denatured alcohol until clean then take another hour and solder all the joints. It won't take any longer than trying to monkey the after market junk in. If that doesn't fix it remove the servo and replace it cost would be the same as after market junk. Of course if your cheap buy a used Porsche servo and rewire it for Mercedes it 's the same one with a different plug.

I fixed both of mine in a weekend and they both work flawlessly.