EGR blocking plate kit
 

Thanks to the efforts of GSXR and myself, we have found a way to make an EGR blocking plate for the intake manifold and a sheet metal cover for the exhaust tube at a decent price. The details are in this thread:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/73877-egr-blocking-plate-kit.html?perpage=15

At the present time, 13 members are interested in the kit, at a cost of $30.00 delivered. We need 16 more in order to make the quantity of 30 required to get them done at this price.

So, anybody else, who has not already responded, please send me an e-mail at hpcs@csi.com if you are interested in one of these kits.

Thanks

Bump!

If I remember correctly, if more than the needed 30 people buy one, the price may go down to $25...so, the more the merrier! :cool:

count me in (email sent)

We are up to 21 sets. Need to get 8 more to make it cost effective. Who else would like one of these kits?

Bump

Bump again.....I WANT this to happen folks....c'mon!

Chris
'85 300SD

Me Too...!
 

Put me down for one too!

No offense but isn't $30 a little high for two pieces of sheet metal? One of my dads friends cut me a nice one out of aluminum, for the egr to manifold side, it was scrap metal and took him less than 10min. I'm not trying to be a jerk.:)

It's not generic sheet metal, it's stainless. Heck, for stainless, machine-cut properly with properly-done gaskets and bolts, $30 seems cheap to me!

I should have read the other post more carefully, I guess they are stainless and come with gaskets. Yeah then thats not a bad price.

Just so there is no misunderstanding:

My cost for the intake plate and the exhaust plate will be somewhere around $15.00 if we make a quantity of 30. Then there is the new stainless screws and the gasket for the intake plate. Then there is the packing and the shipping. So, the total cost should be somewhere around $25.00. The remaining $5.00 is a safety factor in case some folks decide that they do not want the kit, after the fact.

After we program the laser cutting machine, there is virtually no cost to make five more, so, if we can get 32 people to come thru and actually buy the kit, then the cost will be $25.00 for each kit.

The only profit that I'm looking to make on this kit is one kit for my 617. That's it.

Do you have me down for one? I'll make it two kits if that helps.
DDH

Brian, count me in for two sets. :)

If this EGR blocking plate will work on my 1985 300D Turbo California car, count me in!:D

Wow....we gotta be real close now Brian. You have a tally?

Chris
'85 300SD

on spark engines, Pennsylvania now requires that the annual safelty inspection checks all emissions equipment that was on the vehicle originally. If anything has been modified, you must remediate in order for the vehicle to pass.

Lucky that diesels are exempt state wide from emissions testing.

Chris,

We are at 27. Unfortunately, I cannot tell if DDH or Speedy300Turbo have sent me an e-mail or not. They have indicated that they want the kit, but, I can't confirm their identities. Hopefully they will read this and respond via e-mail:

hpcs@csi.com

I would like to get in on this. Put me down for 1 kit.

Again, I repeat the request:

Whoever wants one of these kits needs to send me an e-mail at:

hpcs@csi.com

I need to keep track of everyone and I need to be able to contact everyone outside of the forum.

If you have not sent me an e-mail, you are NOT on the list, and will NOT receive a kit.

Thanks,

We have the required 29 people needed to make the kits.

I am going to set it up on the laser and make a set and install it on the 617. I'll need a couple of weeks to get it all done and will advise everyone at that time when I make the full run.

Thanks Brian!

They did and it has. ................. $25.00 will be the price to all:cool:

Thank you all for your excellent response.

I will get back to everybody in about three weeks after I have a chance to make a set for testing and then to make the full group for shipment.

EGR block 240D
 

Will the EGR kit work for an '80 240D??

Regarding the 240's:

We are sure that the intake plate works on the 240 and several members are fairly confident that the exhaust plate works but are not positive.

I would like to send someone a test plate for the exhaust on the 240. Please e-mail me directly at hpcs@csi.com.

You rock, Brian!! Thank you so much for doing the legwork and making this happen! I'm looking forward to hearing that they are ready to ship. Have a great weekend.

maybe this is a dumb question, but if I wanted to leave the EGR on for looks, would this be possible?

One way or another, Count me in!

JMH

I would think you could. Sandwhich the plate between the manifold and the EGR. You may or may not need longer bolts or studs.

The purpose of the kit is to get rid of the "look" of the EGR valve.
If you prefer to keep the valve in place for "looks", then the kit is not required. To prevent the valve from operating, just install a piece of hard plastic in the hose to the valve, just in front of the valve.

It would be possible to use the intake blocking plate beneath the EGR valve, if you so desired. However, you would need longer screws to accommodate the thickness of the plate.

I am already on your list for the kit. However, once I receive it I am going to wait until my remanufactured MB engine warranty expires (just in case I have a problem and the removed egr valve causes a problem with a warranty claim). After that, I will install the kit. In the meantime, I have blocked the vacumn line to the valve, which solved my downshifting/black clouds of exhaust/sticking egr valve problem. Thanks for your efforts and innovation!

I had the prototype exhaust plate made from .014 stainless. The thickness was perfect. Unfortunately, the fingers were too stiff to bend around the face of the exhaust pipe using a hammer. I bent the fingers with neddlenose pliers to 80 degrees and installed it on the pipe. The size of the fingers and the O.D. of the plate need some adjustment, however, I have taken the SD out for a test run with the plate installed without any problems. The intake plate will be made from .187 stainless, instead of the previously stated .125 and testing of it will commence next week.

Just an update on the progress of the kit:

The intake plates were made from both .187 and .125 stainless. It appears likely that we will go back to the .125 stainless because the finish is much better along the edge. The laser creates some roughness on the thicker .187 material and it does not look that great. I will put the .125 intake plate on the 617 in the next day or so and confirm proper fit.

With regard to the exhaust cap, we will make another prototype in the next week and try it out late next week on the 617.

Should not be more than a couple of more weeks to finalize it.

If any 240 owners are out there, I would appreciate knowing the O.D. of the exhaust pipe after the clamp is removed. If this matches the 617 it will confirm that the fit is identical.

Just an update on the kits:

The .125 intake plate was installed on the 617. You can just barely see the gasket on one side so I will make them about .060 larger all the way around.

The exhaust plate is still awaiting the second prototype because the laser broke down on wednesday due to the warm temperatures. Hopefully, I'll have it by next wednesday.

The stainless button head cap screws are in and I'll put them on the 617 this weekend and admire the look.:D

An update on the kits:

The .125 stainless intake plate was made .060 larger in all dimensions to fully cover the gasket. It was installed with stainless 8mm button head cap screws on the 617 and it looks perfect.

The new prototype exhaust plate was manufactured and installed on the 617. After bending the fingers to 85 degrees, the fingers were trimmed down to a length of about .125. The clamp fit over the fingers properly and did not distort the plate when fully tightened. I need to run the 617 for a bit to see if it leaks. If it does leak, I'll try some of the 700 degree copper sealant and see if that does the trick.

I'll begin testing on the 603 next week to see if there are any issues with that engine.

An update on the kits:

I have installed the larger intake plate on the 603 and it is perfect with the stainless button head cap screws.

Unfortunately, I am still having problems with the exhaust plate on both the 617 and the 603. When the clamp is tightened, the clamp pulls the fingers together and leaves a slight bulge in the plate right below the bolt. This bulge causes a fairly good leak.

I have tried the plate with all the fingers cut off. This may prove successful if the plate is slightly larger and extends all the way out into the clamp. Alternately, I may try to get a stamping made that mimics the exhaust tube face with a capped end of course.

Sorry for the delay. I thought I could have them all made and shipped by now. I would like to solve the exhaust plate problem without the use of sealant, if at all possible.

Brian, are all the kits you are planning on manufacturing spoken for?

Bob

Bob,

Anyone can speak up for the kits until I make the full run. Just send me an e-mail at hpcs@csi.com so I can keep track of you and advise when the kits are ready.

Thanks for the updates. Don't apologize, you're the one doing all the work! :cool:

It really is not all that much work. Just make a prototype. Try it out. Repeat. Just a bit frustrating regarding the exhaust plate. I have been unable to duplicate Dave's results in stainless steel because of its greater stiffness.

Brian, I've enjoyed reading about your continuing efforts to perfect your kit. I am already on your list for a kit. Have you had an answer as to whether the exhaust part will fit my 240D OK?

Hey David,

Back on May 5, 2004, I was requesting that someone with a 240 measure the diameter of the exhaust pipe to confirm that it is the same as the 617. Could you possibly do that? Just remove the clamp, take off the connection pipe, and measure the diameter of the cast iron pipe from the manifold. Please use a vernier caliper as it is important to ensure that the size is the same as the 617.

Thanks for your assistance.

Brian, my engine is still under warranty from MB, and I have not wanted to remove the egr valve until the warranty has expired (I have simply plugged the vacumn line in the meantime) - unfortunately I am not up to your expertise and do not have the caliper you specified. Anybody else out there more handy than I to do the job?

An update on the kits:

As previously stated, the intake plate is completely designed and installed on both the 603 and 617 and it looks great and works fine.

The exhaust plate is giving me fits. At the present time, I have switched to copper because it is malleable and I can tap it down over the rounded nose on the pipe. I have installed it on the 603 with an excellent fit, however, it still leaks directly underneath the bolt, where the clamp is not continuous.

So, I reinstalled it with some 700 degree copper sealant. I will test it with the sealant installed over the next several days and advise. I would not expect the pipe, being at the very end of the manifold, to get to 700 degrees. But, we'll see...................

Thanks for the continued efforts. KEEP up the good fight.

An update on the kits:

The exhaust plate, made from a copper disc, with copper sealant (700 degree) is installed on the 603 and it does not leak:D

I am going to continue to drive it and verify that it remains leakproof.

The original prototype plate was made by hand. I need to make some discs on the laser and verify the proper diameter for the disc.

I also need to install it on the 617 and confirm that it fits there as well.

It appears that we will likely require the use of the sealant.

Anybody have any comments about this, or oppose it for any reason? The use of the sealant will raise the cost of the kit somewhat. Or, does everybody prefer to obtain their own sealant? I think that this would not be cost effective for most folks.

Since you mentioned it the other day I checked out some high-temp copper sealant at Autozone the other day, it was only a few bucks. But whether you charge me the few extra bucks or I give it to Autozone makes no difference to me :).

The cost of the sealant that I bought from McMaster-Carr was about $5.00. But, I used so little of it that I would like to find a tube with a smaller quantity that I can purchase at a lower cost.

I'd vote for people supplying their own sealant. I have used Permatex "red" high-temp RTV on all my exhaust discs and have had zero leaks. Most DIY types may already have some in their toolbox, if not, it's maybe $5 tops at the local McParts. Perhaps offer it as optional, for an extra $5 (after confirming the cost)? BTW, I made a disc for my 617, it's the same size/shape as the 603 and is also holding up fine (with red RTV).

:cool:

Just got done using the red Permatex myself not 30 min. ago.

Pretty much every DIY'er should have some on hand by default so I'd vote to simply ship w/o it. For all you out there that don't have any, sorry....but you'll use it sooner or later. :D

Chris
'85 300SD

I have to ask...are you sure it'll hold up to the temperature?

A diesel that's being worked hard can get the exhaust gas temps up past 1000°...I don't have a pyro (yet), so I can't say what temps my 617 runs at routinely, but I"m concerned that the sealant won't hold up long-term...problem is, I can't readily think up an alternate :(