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  #1  
Old 04-28-2004, 02:17 PM
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Pulling Engine from 300SD

My 300SD threw a rod and I am going to replace the motor with a used one. It appears, from the literature, that the trans must be pulled with the engine, is this true? Are there any other details I should know before taking on this job? Any special tools required?

Thanks

Richard

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  #2  
Old 04-28-2004, 10:03 PM
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Posts: 345
not true, some claim it makes it easier but I ahve done it both ways and found the engine alone to be fairly easy to pull by itself.

Dont bother with the PS pump and A/C compressor removal, take them out as is.
In no particular order -

-exhaust (3 bolts above the turbo, remove air filter housing
- Oil cooler hose, coolant hoses, tranny hose and its hex screws that hold it to the oil pan
- linkage to firewall
- linkage to tranny modulator
- A/C and PS hoses
- glow plug wires
- tranny bellhousing bolts
- tranny torque converter bolts(remove dust cap on the tranny to access them (rotate engine)
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1982 300SD (214 k, excellent shape) kidmobile running mostly biodiesel, gets 31 mpg hwy with 2.82 rear from a euro 500SEL



1976 115 body 240D 4-speed (traded for Jeep parts) - Engine lives on in my CJ7
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  #3  
Old 04-28-2004, 11:16 PM
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Location: Beech Island, S.C.
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Unless the engine is locked up then you'll be better off pulling the trans with the engine because you won't be able to turn it to remove the torque converter bolts.
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  #4  
Old 04-28-2004, 11:23 PM
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Dohhh..........
forgot about that little piece of info.
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1982 300SD (214 k, excellent shape) kidmobile running mostly biodiesel, gets 31 mpg hwy with 2.82 rear from a euro 500SEL



1976 115 body 240D 4-speed (traded for Jeep parts) - Engine lives on in my CJ7
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  #5  
Old 04-29-2004, 12:44 PM
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Posts: 11
While most have suggested removing them as a unit, this makes me consider just removing the engine. I will take a close look at those bell housing bolts, I have long extensions and wobbly sokets........

Thanks all.

Richard
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  #6  
Old 04-29-2004, 12:45 PM
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also, remember to drop the tranny driveshaft, rear crossmember and let the tranny sag so the top bellhousing bolts are easier to access
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1982 300SD (214 k, excellent shape) kidmobile running mostly biodiesel, gets 31 mpg hwy with 2.82 rear from a euro 500SEL



1976 115 body 240D 4-speed (traded for Jeep parts) - Engine lives on in my CJ7
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  #7  
Old 05-01-2004, 11:27 AM
mattdave
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I had no trouble

I had no trouble pulling my SD's as a unit it was a little more diffacult putting it back in as a unit though. It took two big guys to lift the rear of the tranny over the front clip because it hung so low on the hoist we had to lift the back of transmission. If I were doing the install my self I would do it in 2 pieces but if I had two helpers for 5 minuites no way would I do IT seprate. My advice is it is less work to take them both out together.
Dave Sid San Jose CA

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