replacing ac on 240D

I need to replace the ac on my 1980 240D. this past winter the compressor locked up. Is it best to go back with a R4 compressor
or something else. what is best R134, R12,or the new freeze 12.

[engatwork]

I would stick with a brand new R4 compressor if I were you. Also, stick with the r12 in my opinion. You may need to flush out the system if the compressor internally self destructed.

I agree with Jim except I would not say that you MAY need to flush if the compressor failed internally. I would say that you need to flush EVERYTHING until you're blue in the face if it has failed internally.

Also, beware that many NEW R4's have different seal types at the manifold, so make sure that you use the correct seal.

Good luck,

[leathermang]

One question is why the compressor locked up... maybe the compressor BEFORE that one put junk into the system....
One thing for sure... the only safe route is to do a good flush....

[engatwork]

Thanks LB - I don't know why I put "may" in there in regards to a compressor going bad. To tell the truth I have pretty much flushed everyone I have gotten going on r12 over the past year or so. To me it is a 1/2 day job on the 123 body.

[leathermang]

Jim, did you drill out your old Expansion valve to make a " flushing tool" as the FSM suggests ?

What does drilling out an expansion valve do? It seems that if you remove it you have maximum flushing access to the evaporator.

You've triggered my curiosity.

Have a great day,

[leathermang]

Sorry, I thought I remembered them saying to drill out the stuff on the inside... instead they say screw it out... then it can be hooked to the two routes specific as the flushing procedure...so you turn the old TX block valve into a tool for flushing...

Larry, I did not realize you did not have the shop manual for the heater/ac for the 123....