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#1
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releiving case pressure
old engine, 260,xxx miles
1980 300td with a 1982 con turbo any tricks to creating more vacuum in the case to releive the excessive pressure caused by blow by? i know in Air cooled VW's in the high performance engines they hook up extra brether hoses to the valve covers and plumb it into the air cleaner box. any way in helping out an old benz so it doesnt squirt oil out of every oriface/ thanks will
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'73 VW camper '80 300td wagon |
#2
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Bad idea; just ask mplafleur
mplafleur had a 240D runaway.
The engine was running away on crank case oil entering through the breather tube. End result = bad rod knock, like a vigorous five pound sledge hammer on the block, running on two cylinders at idle, and three at 2000 RPM, giant smoke cloud.
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#3
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Re: Bad idea; just ask mplafleur
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Would this be enough to stop a runaway?
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Tony from West Oz. Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine. Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int. Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine. Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly. |
#4
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NO
That would not fix your problem.
I will try to write more later today. There is a way to patch around this issue for a while. |
#5
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I do not recommend this.
a short time repair that I have seen work.
You want to increase vacuum in the crank case; with out feeding to much oil to the intake and causing a runaway. Here is a process that works; but you will need to fabricate the part to fit your car. Supplies needed: #1. A clean one gallon paint can. #2. Enough stainless steel, steel wool scrubbing pads to fill it. #3. Four pipe stubs. #4. A faucet. #5. Hose, no smaller than the current breather tube. Fabricate like the graphic Fill the can with stainless steel, steel wool scrubbing pads and seal it. Reroute your crank case vent to the in stub on the can. Add a second vacuum tube to your air cleaner. Attach both out hoses to the air cleaner. Be sure to drain it of oil every hundred miles, until you determine a more rational interval. The drain hose should reach under the car, you may want to cut a small hole in the engine under panel for it. This should double your vacuum draw from the crank case. |
#6
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Re: Bad idea; just ask mplafleur
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#7
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In your diagram above, could the liquid oil drain be connected back to the sump?
This would allow the oil to return to the sump, rather than staying in the can. Would also not need draining periodically.
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Tony from West Oz. Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine. Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int. Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine. Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly. |
#8
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Hmmm, a one way check valve or pump must be used.
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#9
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As long as the oil is not being sucked up the drain, it doesn't need any non-return valve or pump.
Assuming that a 1/4" line was used for the drain, and the air cleaner element was clean, it should not suck oil up the foot or so above the oil level in the sump. Possibly worth a try. I would still like to see a butterfly to close the air intake if the engine decided to run away on it's own
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Tony from West Oz. Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine. Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int. Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine. Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly. |
#10
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I used to have a Nissan pick-up truck with a diesel engine and all it had was a pipe that vented the crankcase. It was routed by the rear of the block and down to the ground. It looked something you would see on a pre-'55 gasser engine before PCV valves were used which was called a road draft tube. The only bad thing about it was that it drained onto one side of the frame and suspension and that area was always caked with oil crud and it would drip causing a mess where ever it was parked.
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#11
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that remindes me,
in Buenos aires, Aregentina i would say more than half of the vehicles are diesel powered, and every single one of them, brand new, old and middle of the road, have a pipe under the engine that billows out white smoke. Some only when accelerating, and some all the time. this is even on brand new peugeots (sp?) VW's and those french cars....renault. Do they know something we dont? more power with out crank case gases getting recirculated? any answers, Gueses will
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'73 VW camper '80 300td wagon |
#12
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The Nissan diesel that I owned had 63HP from a 2.2 L push rod engine.
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#13
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No, just cheaper.
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