Successfully replaced rear wheel bearings

[Lars]

I successfully replaced the rear bearings on one side on my 300TD this weekend. Technically it is quite a challenging job. The special socket is essential for the job. I also had to fabricate a variety of pressing sleeves and round punches to pound the bearings out and back in. Also had to make a custom slide-hammer as I don't own one. Without my lathe to build these tools, I don't think I could have done it. You just cannot pound bearing races with a hammer to get them in, they would be ruined.

I had read previous threads about people being sore for a week after doing their bearings. I had no trouble getting the funky nut out and torqued back in using the special tool and a 3 ft cheater bar.

PEH:

If you read this, I ended up removing some material off the outer diameter of the ZDMac socket with my lathe to make it fit. Let me know if you need the exact measurement I got it down to. You could use a die grinder but you might remove too much and ruin the tool. This special socket is available from ZDMac tools for 25$ + shipping (instead of 60$ elsewhere) but the outer diameter is slightly out of spec and has to be turned down. A good deal on a good tool for those who have access to a lathe.

[Lars]

bump

[CannonBall]

How much did this end up costing you with the price of that special socket. I'm pretty sure one of my rear bearings is going out and the previous owner had one replaced and said it made similar noises when that one was going out.

Just wondering if there is a write up of it this is a take apart, put back together kinda thing. I have a variety of pullers, access to a lathe and presses and what not but I don't want to get in over my head being as this car is supposed to be my daily driver. Thanks.
-Nate

[P.E.Haiges]

Lars,

How do you know how much to turn the nut to crush the washer.

E-mail me the specs about the tool you turned on the lathe. I don't have a lathe, can I use a bench mounted grinder to remove some of the metal on the tool?

P E H

[CannonBall]

I dunno if it's anything like the front but we would always tighten it till there was no play in the wheel then give it 1/4 -1/2 turn. I guess it's not very scientific.
-Nate

[rickg]

Glad to see someone tackle this job. I took the SD in to a shop last summer, because I didn't have the time to figure out the special tools needed. If you could please do some sort of a more detailed write up, would appreciate it alot. (before I need to do the other bearing ) I'm a machinist, so can make or modify most anything I'd need to do the job.

[CannonBall]

I wish these were like the sealed non servicable bearings on my jeep, I can change those in about 20 minutes. Crazy MB!!!

I second the detailed writeup if at all possible. Thanks.
-Nate

[Lars]

Just came back from a business trip. The bearings cost 60$ at Fastlane, the tol is 30$ at ZD Mak.

I will do a write-up within a few days, as I would need to find a camera to take pictures of my tools and sleeves.

PEH: I will give you the exact measurement as soon as I can go out to measure it. Using a grinder to bring the diameter down might be risky, as you canot control the amount you take off as well as on a lathe. If you take too much off a prong, it might break.

[TwitchKitty]

A buddy of mine changed one, but he changed the whole hub to keep from doing what you did. Want a spare hub with a bad bearing?

[Lars]

The tool sold by ZD Mak is out of spec (outer diameter too large), which is why they are selling them half price at 30$.

PEH: The exact measurement of the tool once machined is 2.150". This gives a nice snug fit on the hub nut.

As far as how much to crush the washer, I just went by feel until I could feel no play in the bearing, while still spinning smoothly. I know this is not the proper way and scientific way to do it, but I've been doing this on my cars for years without any problems (yet...)