I disconnected my EGR. I know some people like to stick a BB or some hard plastic in the rubber tube to the EGR, and then reconnect it to the EGR, but why not do like I did, just pull it off and leave it hanging there? Is it for looks that you reattach it, or am I missing something here?
-Joe

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

Then you will have a vacum leak.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I'll just plug it back in until I can find something to plug the tube with.
-joe

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

What effect do you feel/see when the EGR vacume line is pulled and not plugged. Mine is pulled by the PO. I dont think it is plugged off though. I'm trying to decipher all the various performance issues.

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"Know other lessons I need to learn? TELL me. Tired of learning'em the hard way".

Glow Plug Wait: [i} Time of silence in homage Rudolph Diesel. Longer you own a diesel. more honor you give". [/i]

Life; SNAFU Situation Normal All Fouled Up, & FUBAR: Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

-Now: Snafued Jeep TJ w/OM617 2Be daily driver & building SS M1079 w/Ambo boxed /live in Adv. Truck, Diesel KLR conversion
-Sold 62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD

It makes a vacuum leak that will alter the hardness/softness of the transmission shifting.

Less vacuum/leaks= hard, neck flinging shifts.
No leaks= Correct, silky smooth shifting.

ah... so the EGR disconnect (w/open vacuum circuit) would be in the route of vacuum lines that if leaked/open would cause hard shifts. I was under the impression the EGR vacuum hose circuit was indpendent of the other of the vacuum circuits. Thats good news. I have hard shifts and I think my EGR is not plugged off properly. Ill look further at this.

Is that it? any other problems related to the performance of the engine?

__________________
"Know other lessons I need to learn? TELL me. Tired of learning'em the hard way".

Glow Plug Wait: [i} Time of silence in homage Rudolph Diesel. Longer you own a diesel. more honor you give". [/i]

Life; SNAFU Situation Normal All Fouled Up, & FUBAR: Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

-Now: Snafued Jeep TJ w/OM617 2Be daily driver & building SS M1079 w/Ambo boxed /live in Adv. Truck, Diesel KLR conversion
-Sold 62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD

Vacuum leaks in the EGR lines might make the brakes feel stiffer than they should. But I believe there is a check valve in the brake booster to help offset this during low vacuum times (Engine off, sudden high throttle to brake application, misc. items operation, etc.)

My friend notified me that auto parts place such as NAPA or O'Reily sell plugs that will effectively plug up vacuum tubes. I suppose that'll work, since I have no BBs or anything to plug the tube lying around, and I'm certain that this will work.
-Joe

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

I've used simple vacuum caps, obtainable at any McParts, for my EGR and air recirc for over 4 years without issue.

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Chris

'04 ML500 - 53k, Inspiration Edition, Desert Silver
'11 Audi A4 Avant - Brilliant Black
'87 300SDL sold
'99 C280 Sport sold
'85 190E 2.3 sold

Golf Tees work in a pinch also

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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)

You DON'T have to block your EGR valve.

The MB engineers have designed them so they will block themselves.

You can imagine the crap in the intake manifold and intake ports.

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You can get farther with a smile and a gun than you can with just a smile.

1984 300D
1985 300CD
1980 300SD
1993 SL500

Can someone tell me more about blocking the EGR if I want to remove it all together? What could I use to block the valve at the switches on the valve cover, that wouldnt look too funny? What should I use to block that valve on the engine itself? The valve on the engine I can see using caps, similar to those used on the ends of the fuel injectors, but I dont know about the one on the valve cover, as that needs to stick something in the hole to plug it.

Thanks very much,

JMH

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Use the Search Function and search for "EGR blocking plate kit" or something similar, to reveal a very long discussion on that issue.

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Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

I'd be worried of sucking something into the vacuum pump through an uncapped hose. No likely, but why not cap it?

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL