The hondaworld calls it building a "junkyard turbo" setup.....rising rate fuel pressure regulator and an assortment of scavenged turbo parts you can turbo almost anything.....yeah the PVC is easy to work with but its unsuitible due to underhood temps....


there are "junkyard turbo" sites on the internet dedicated to this sort of thing.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Actaully the underhood temps seem to not be the main killer.

WHen I was running my first intercooler setup I used some black plastic ABS pipe elbows to line up a couple joints after the turbo. Little did I know that the temperature of the gasses coming out of the turbo under boost are SO HOT that they will melt most any plastic in their path.

You don't really realize how hot it gets but to give you an idea, If my air/water intercooler isn't pumping, the water inside approaches its boiling point. I had a pretty good amount of steam on the OUTSIDE of the IC (from the rain) before i put the radiator in the system.

I think the engine compartment gets hot yes but if you put plastics between the turbo and the intercooler or intake...its gonna melt.

My ABS elbow piece deformed and blew out of its fitting (And this was with non-agressive driving). It gets hot in there.

I should have known that. I'm a construction dude, carpenter mostly, but I'm a half-fast plumber too and you have to use di-electric or brass fittings in between copper and cast iron piping. Same deal, the two get into a chemical thang with each other.

Brass might work with aluminum but I don't think you can get brass in all the fittings you can get copper in. Who knows, maybe you could use a brass interface between copper and aluminum. I'll look into it.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Brass would be a lot more expensive than aluminium. Its sorta a trade off between attaching pieces together (soldering/welding) and cost...I'd personally go with steel until the availabiltiy of aluminium (the right stuff for the job) presents itself

Most likely you could find any pipe piece you need in aluminium (bends, etc) and just use silicone boot things to hook them all together.

Or do what I did and make stuff out of steel first, then later on when you have the TIG skills or the money to pay someone to custom fab some stuff up, they can make exactly what you need. I could make aluminium right now but I want to test/tune before I get too fancy. Steel is a lot easier to cut/weld

Not sure if anyone actaully watched the pyro/boost gauge video however I found out it was a bit innacurate. My little centrifugal pump had sucked a bubble and thus wasn't pumpin water.

I replumbed it (switched input and output so it has a constant supply of water from the IC) and will make a video sometime this weekend if I have time.

Waiting on an IP gasket and an oil filter stand gasket (both currently seeping) before I up the fuel...boost needs to come up too becuase I have light smoke under heavy throttle at 2500+RPM.

More good advice. BTW, I read about the silicone fittings but I know nothing about them. Is there a link you know of that could fill me in?

Oh man, now see what you've made me do. I checked out the local CC scene (I'd taking some auto tech classes with them before) and welding classes are starting next week! Here I go....

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

A little education never hurt anyone

Regarding silicone boots/connectors.

http://www.turbohoses.com/


Basically they are rated for high heat applications, high levels of boost, and they make all sorts of shapes to do all sorts of stuff. Ford uses something very similar on their powerjoke engines to hook up to the intercoolers. Also very commonly seen in heavy diesel equipment. Basically a non-rubber based connector. The rubber tends to shrink/swell and get loose. The silicone doesn't

Not too spendy either...if you find anywhere with nice stuff, cheap, and whatnot...post a link!

Oh, yes. The ones always covered in oil and sludge? Ford claims that's "normal" for their silicone hoses.

Hehe...

on this IC dad just got for his truck the factory ones were prety clean...though the IC had a pretty decently sized area of like grease/oil...wtf is up with that?

Its on the outside...

brass and aluminum will work together.

stainless and al maybe ok though

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Did you replace the stock air filter u-tube with ABS plastic tube?

Temporarily, yes.

Since this tube only seems luke warm air (if not cold) I figured the ABS will work fine until I do the full aluminium setup. The stock U-tube is just WAY too long...

ABS on the boost side of things is a no-no

On a side note...this ABS pipe has the same amount of restriction (or lack thereof) as the stock u-tube....no change in boost or throttle responce hindering

I built an air intake with the stuff and it flowed on me.

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

car sounds nice and sporty ..

Renault/Alpine factory & later on, the racers, experimented with liquid-to-air intercoolers. As delivered from the factory, the mid-engine Turbo/Turbo 2's came with air-to-air intercoolers...