Pump: $40
Nozzle: $15
Pressure switch: $12
Hose: $10
Tank: Free, share the washer bottle
Total: $77

Suitable means anywhere post turbo and post intercooler. The EGR port, compressor housing, etc.

Don't make it sound complicated. It is very simple.

Pumping 212*f steam into 200*f compressed air isn't going to cool anything.

Wrong, I'm have been working on a port injection system for several weeks. The only thing holding me back is lack of available money.

If you search for "pre-turbo water injection" in google there are plenty of cases where pre-turbo water injection, if done right, does not harm the propeller blades as commonly thought.

The cases where it did where cases where other objects got into the intake.

Is there a way to mist the water without using heat that would work? I know there are cool vaporizers for use in your house. Is there some way to rig up something like that rather than producing steam?

Small nozzle, 100-150psi pressure should do the trick. You don't have to heat the water.

It DOES wear damage the wheel by dulling the blade edges. Don't be LAZY, post-turbo injection is the only right way to do it.

Why are you so sure? There are plenty of accounts where people used it without any harm. Even Saab used it.

That doesn't mean it didn't do any damage. Any wear on the blade edges will reduce its efficiency and loose it's balance.

There are "plenty of accounts" of people using Lovecraft's system too, that doesn't mean they re right or doing what they should be doing.

Saab is an embarrassment to the automotive industry. Their ONLY good point is they aren't afraid to use turbochargers on production cars.

I know this is a lot more complicated, but didn't older diesel engines use water injection ATDC directly to the cylinder? It seems to me, that this would be the best scenario, because you can really utilized the expansion of the phase change. I think that would be pretty sweet to have DI water.

Care to quantify that statement? My brother has an 87 SPG that is a wonderful car to drive, fast, hugs the road, and economy>30mpg to boot... all on 87 octane. Very reasonably priced (far less than my 300TD).. Quite reliable, hardly any maintenance required compared to the benz... My mom drives a GM900S which has proven a very inexpensive car to drive for the last 50k... just oil changes and tires so far.. Once big things start to go bad on them its time to get rid of them, because exhaustive repairs can be pricey, but certainly less of an embarrassment to the automotive industry than, say, GM.. at least in my experience...

As for the pre-turbo WI, seems like a bad idea regardless of the phase the water is in. Seems nearly as bad an idea as running the CCV into the impeller. When I took my turbo apart to rebuild it I got about 1/16-1/8" of encrusted oil sludge out of the housing, which can't be good for airflow...

I wasn't aware older diesels had DI water injection.. That is an awesome idea though, and could be done fairly low-tech. Bruce Crower made a 6-cycle engine recently out of a one-lung diesel that he put a carb on to run on gasoline, and injected water with the injector+IP... I like the idea of injecting H20 ATDC, probably does wonders for emissions too... I wonder if we could get away with installing H2O injectors in the GP holes? Would an IDI diesel have a snowball's hope in hell of starting w/o GPs? Maybe a WD-40 injection system for starting? I bet an EFI common-rail setup like megasquirt or something similar could be constructed fairy simply for the water...

What about those ultrasonic humidifiers that were all the rage back in the mid 1980s? The make such small droplets that they will stay suspended in the air just from brownian motion of the air molecules themselves. You'd need a whole array of the things to atomize water at the rate needed, but it'd be about as abrasive on the turbo vanes as driving through fog. Best part, they don't use tons of power since phase change of the water isn't involved, so you still get the phase change cooling benefit.

I haven't seen them sold as humidifiers in years, but I think the craft stores still sell the equivalant things as fog/mist generators for decorative fountains.

Or you could always generate a heap 'O tiny droplets by bubbling millions of tiny O2 and H2 gas bubbles through some water... Oops.. wrong thread :D.

100 psi would be minimum. The nozzle either has to be spraying a cone right onto the nut which is very very difficult to do properly, or it has to be back some distance and spraying the proper direction to not condensate on the intake walls or form larger drops. Some engines have far greater psi pumps that spray under 5um size drops. The amount pre turbo to simulate post turbo effects is much less- I think close to a 1/4. FI is correct- larger drops will degrade your blades. A system pre turbo must have very very small drops sizes- and that is why I am asking about cold steam. The steam is cold to my hand at 6 inches- so it must have lost quite a bit of it's heat. The real question is this- how long does steam hold it's heat, and does steam when it leaves a steamer nozzle condensate to itself with water surface tension and form large drops?

how about LOX

lox? lol...

You'd throw a rod.. or seriously gum up the engine :D

Some person in a gasser tried that here a few years back by driving through the liquid O2 vapor cloud leaking from a damaged tanker truck. The car was parked about 50 feet past the cloud down the on ramp, and I'd bet they got most of that distance coasting after they threw a rod or whatever :)

If you are going to have a 100psi pump and atomizing nozzle, don't even bother trying to put it pre-turbo.