In my mixed commute, I typically get about 36 mpg. If I am careful, I can get very close to 40 on a steady highway trip. I have intentionally gone on an "efficiency" run (a 200 mi trip, followed by the same route 200 mi in return) and gotten over 40mpg. This required a travel speed of about 60mph on the interstate, and a very light foot.

That 6-speed swap certainly looks interesting. To date, I haven't seen anyone successfully swap a 6-speed and matching shifter into a W201 or W124. If anyone has a link to a successful, working, driving car, that would be great.

There is a 6-speed manual trans on Ebay right now.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-MERCEDES-W203-C230-KOMPRESSOR-TRANSMISSION-6-SPEED-/180674109497?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a11042039



SteveM.

I must say that this would be very tempting, but i would need to know if the length of the transmissions are the same. i am getting a 300e driveshaft from germany (Its on a Boat somewhere) and this 6 speed would need to be the same as the 190e 5 speed that i have. i dont want to have to modify the driveshaft.

worst case i start wtih the 5 speed swap, and then take my time to look for a cheap 6 speed that would fit. make for a fun upgrade later, but before that, i would investigate a 606 turbo upgrade, though that seems unlikely.

I can't fathom the "more is always better" concept... why not go for 7, 8, or 9 speeds? :rolleyes: The main flaw with the 4-speeds is lack of overdrive; the 5th gear fixes that (assuming you get the proper tranny with overdrive 5th gear). I guess all the folks salivating over manual trannies haven't spent much time in stop & go traffic or gridlock. I'd much rather have a 722.6 5-speed auto with overdrive (with lockup converter for the hypermilers), but, to each his own...

:boat:

You give them a CVT and they still complain. Nissan had to add 'perceptible shifts' to its CVTs.

Sixto
87 300D

Blew the front seal off that slave cylinder. I've got brake fluid coming out the front of the bell housing. Going to try to swap it for the other one I have. I hope I can do it without removing the transmission... cause if I do that I may as well do the clutch:rolleyes:

Right now I'm just content to watch the cats chase each other around the house.

Drop the trans mount it will make getting to those bolts alot easier. Also a 1/4 socket and extension setup does wonders.

I'm pretty sure I can get it off the transmission, it's the hydraulic line on top that might be an issue.


Did you ever experiment with thicker gaskets for the slave cylinder?

Crows foot of course. The hard part isnt getting it off....

I don't have any crows feet, there are some around my eyes tho. Any idea what size it is? I will go get one.

EDIT:

Nevermind... I keep forgetting I have a whole 5 spd sitting in my garage. :rolleyes:

10? 12? 13?

12mm. Guess I know what I am doing tomorrow.

All is well. Got the slave cylinder replaced, finally got it bled well enough. Just working on smoothing out the jerkiness of the shifts.. this car hops around more than anything else I have driven. In fact I was told last night that my otherhalf will no longer ride in it because of the nausea it causes :rolleyes:

The front DS I'm using has one of the silly anti vibration "thing" on the front of it. My custom DS guy said those were a joke. This one looked ok when I installed the DS, but now the rubber is failing and the "thing" in loose. I will have to pull the DS and yank that mess off there. I wonder if that could be causing my slight low speed vibration.

Now all I need is a blower motor and I should be set for awhile.

My 5-speed setup "jerks around" plenty also. It used to be worse, but then I replaced the engine mounts with some "good used" units from my private stash. It's still not silky-smooth however. It seems like I can feel the drivetrain moving around between shifts, especially from 1st to 2nd gear.

SteveM.

Note that the EPC specifies different engine mounts for auto tranny vs manual tranny, as well as for taxi or non-taxi, etc. You may want to poke around the Euro specs and see if you can figure out which mounts may be more suitable. Note that you will probably have to buy OE, as many different engine mount part #'s will all combine to the same one or two aftermarket mounts as they are physically interchangeable, but not functionally identical (i.e., some are firmer or softer than others). Be prepared for sticker shock on some of the OE mounts though.

:chinese2: