OM603 Performance
 

Hey guys I am n00b who recently got a 1987 300D OM603 turbo. School me in OM603 performance. Is there anything I should do off the bat to pick up some power and/or mpg? My ultimate goal is mpg because this car will never be "fast" but some extra HP and TQ without major downsides is also a plus.

Is there any recommended reading on 603 performance?

Things like EGR removal, or messing with the boost, good ideas? bad ideas?

Where are the common places I should check to make sure my car is running right before I try to upgrade it?

Does the OM603 have ALDA? I have been reading about cleaning out the alda bolts on OM617 motors.

Sorry if it is a broad post, I've always been a diesel fan, but these W124s are the first ones I've owned.

Search: Overboost protection, ALDA, Switchover valve, Bowden Cable.

If the ALDA is adjusted properly, Bowden cable adjusted properly, switchover valve working & connected to the manifold correctly (not blocked by carbon), good air and fuel filters, it should be surprisingly quick (0-60 in around 9seconds & top speed around 125mph).

GSXR
 

Some of GSXR's posts and Replys:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=4798989

The "website":http://www.w124performance.com/images/

OnLine manual:
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Index/602_603index.html

The "Advanced Search" button is Your Friend. (Archives)

I just recently bought the car, I actually haven't brought it up to Columbus where I live. It is still sitting down in cincinnati, I'll bring it up here soon, trying to make space up here for it.

Sitting in a box I've got a Mann air filter, power steering filter, spin on fuel filter, inline fuel filter, transmission filter/gasket/drainplug, oil and filter change.

I was going to do all that kind of tune up stuff first.

The car has moisture in the tank and the bottom of the fuel filler cap is rusty. The car idles rough but runs smooth. I have a feeling the tank is rusty and causing a low rpm miss. I have new injector tips and gaskets sitting in a box. I've had it near 120mph and it still gets 30mpg so it can't be running THAT poorly.

I have a gas tank out of a 1994 E320 petrol (along with the rest of the car), will that fit the diesel? The mounts all look the same, the filler looks the same, sending unit looks the same etc. If not I'll go old school with a tank cleaning and re-seal.

Sorry this is a performance/fixing my car thread. Mods feel free to move this back into general diesel if you like.

I'll probably just make this my "build" thread logging the maintenance and upgrades to my car.

Looking at the one link it looks like the euro 300d did not have EGR, should I look for one of those, or just block off my EGR?

I did not know the 300D had a catalyst. There is no emissions testing where I live, removing the cat would probably help the turbo spool up faster.

You're on the right track with filters and fluids.

If you're new to the '87 or the 124 in general, search "Trap-Ox" and be sure you don't still have one. Your rough idle could be the OVP relay if you have an ABS light and dead tachometer also, what's the idle RPM?

Easiest is to put a BB in the EGR vacuum line, disables it. Still there but does nothing.

Rusty fuel cap means that there was condensation, not necessarily a bad tank. Watch your fuel filters for a tank full or so, if you find that you can't develop full power after a half tank or so, you're plugging fuel filters. Use a good biocide in the fuel and a cleaner (Biobor and RedLine are my favorites) for a tank or two and see if it clears up, might need a couple of spare filters and if you're going on any trips, take a quart of cheap ATF to prime the fuel filter or you might run out of battery before priming the engine.

Next look into suspension bushings, common ones on the rear of your car are the "thrust arm" bushings, rear subframe bushings, and lower wheel carrier bushing (the one that connects the wheel carrier to the control arm in the rear). When some or all of these are bad you will get some squirrelly behavior especially when going on/off the accelerator.

Good luck and welcome to the 124 club.

I do not have a trap oxidizer, the car has not had one for a very long time. The previous owner had it from 140k-175k and it didnt have one during his ownership, and the owner before him maintained it at a friends shop from about 100k to 140k, it never had a trap oxidizer. The owner before that gentleman was the original owner, so the trap oxidizer was removed in the first 100k miles.

In the past 30k miles the car has gotten a rebuilt transmission and a rebuilt turbo, R134 compressor and other related items and waterpump. Within the past 10k it has had front pads, calipers, and rotors. Bilstein HD shocks, new tires, new rear control arm bushings (squeaked like hell), the diff re-sealed along with new differential mounts. Within the past 1000 new radiator, new fan, fan clutch, new front wheel bearings and a few other things.

The tachometer does work, no CEL or ABS light. The idle seems about right but to be honest I haven't driven it in a while so I can't remember. The tach doesn't fluctuate by much, just the whole car shakes. Its not an obvious like 500rpm bouncing up and down.

I've put Diesel911 in a couple tanks to try to dry it out and it keeps coming back. I have a feeling there is a pinhole or something in the tank.

The car does shift very hard. It got slightly better with the new rear diff bushings but still pretty hard.

I'm sort of new to Mercedes, this is the first one titled in my name but my father has had a dozen or so and I take care of a friends collection.

I've also got a 1992 300D 2.5Turbo. The steering and front end feels much lighter on the '92 than on the '87. Should they drive as differently as they do? The '92 is very nice around town, very easy to steer. The '87 isn't *hard* to drive but definitely takes a little more muscle around town. However the '87 really "lays" in the road at highway speeds and is a fabulous highway car. The '92 is down on power but I think thats a fueling issue, or at worst a turbo (202,000 miles), but the '92 is another thread for another time. The '87 kind of drags off line the line from a dead stop but has a lot of power up in the rpms (hoping my tune up will help it a bit down low), the '92 jumps off the line and then looses all of its oomph at higher rpms. I understand the '92 is the 5cyl 602 motor so it could just be different feeling motors. I've never driven any other w124 diesels than these.

The '87 has heavier steering than the later cars.

The soft launch is probably due to a defective or out-of-adjustment ALDA, and thus not enough fuel for a good launch.

It kind of drags away from the line, but when you get into the boost it pulls like a freight train.

Can you point me towards a good ALDA adjustment how to?

The car also shifts pretty hard, if you let off the throttle slightly before the shift, it shifts even harder. Is this an out of adjustment bowman cable? If so... point me towards a good how to?

If you use the seach feature for ALDA or bowman you get about 10,000 results of posts mentioning one or the other.

The ALDA has a metal seal/cap which must be destroyed to remove. Under that cap is an adjustment, slotted-screw type, with a lock-nut (10mm?). Loosen the lock-nut and CCW the adjustment ~1-1/2 turns is about what most have found works, ... the official FSM adjustment method is based on minimal visible smoke at takeoff.

Very difficult to adjust with the intake plenum on, I've done it twice, this time I think I'll just order the gaskets and R&R the intake.

Test the vacuum/pressure line to it first, if it doesn't hold pressure, it is toast. Some remove the whole thing, but as it is part of your overboost protection, others say don't. I've been happy with adjusting mine.

Okay, I'll have to look at the ALDA. My friend thinks his mechanic has played with it in the past on this car.

Well I went home this weekend and picked up the car, so now it lives with me for good! It's got some obvious problems that need addressed. I kicked off my ownership with a new battery, died in the mall parking lot, but now I shouldn't have to worry about it for a few years.

-Idles very rough, tach doesn't bounce but it shakes the car. If you look at the motor while its running it seems to vibrate a lot more than the 1992, but with the motor off, the motor doesn't have excessive play in the mounts.

-Shifts like a dump truck, I prefer this to slipping but it still needs to be fixed.

-Reallllllllyyyyy slllllooooooowwwwww off the line, but it does pull well under boost.

-ABS light is now on, after I replaced the battery yesterday.

-It is taking 2-3 starts to get it going when it is cold. It'll start then die, my friend thinks a glowplug or two may be going bad, any way to test them?

Threads are worthless without pics, so here are some pics, if you see anything out of place, call my attention to it.

This is the injector closest to the firewall
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5082.jpg
This is what all the others look like
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5084.jpg

Injection pump looks a bit moist, no where near the worst I've ever seen, I am not super concerned about it right now, should I be?
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5090.jpg

Some oily build up around the PCV elbow, what are peoples thoughts on venting the PCV with a breather?
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5091.jpg

Now heres the bad part, the fuel tank.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5092.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5093.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5095.jpg

It needs to be sealed, or replaced. I have a tank out of a 1994 E320 petrol, is that the same? It looks the same, it is the same size, the mounts are the same, the filler is the same etc. Can it be made to work on a diesel? If not I'll get the KBS coatings kit and seal this one.

Looks like the gas tank is gunked out from using WVO waste vegetable oil.

I've known the car for the past 40k miles and it hasn't had WVO in it. My friends mechanic has know it since 90-100k miles and for those 35k miles from 100 to 135 it NEVER had WVO in it.

It was owned by a little old lady initially, around 100k miles it got hit when she was pulling out of her driveway, and totalled out. My friends mechanic, bought it, sold it to a new gentleman and continued to maintained it. When the transmission blew up around 135k miles the owner decided he didn't want to fix it and sold it to my friend, via the mechanic. My friend has owned it since then. And in the 3 days I've had the title, I haven't put WVO in it. We've known the car for probably 10 years know and as far as I know it never had WVO in it.

So maybe the lady who owned it before put WVO in it, though I highly doubt it. It was maintained by the dealer up to 100k miles.

Regardless, I don't plan on putting WVO in it and would like to fix it.

A couple tanks of diesel911 didn't stop the water, so I'm thinking its got a pinhole in it.

So, will the E320 tank fit?

I dont know about the tank, some one on here should. On that injector line it looks to me the return lines need to be replaced. After that I would have the motor steamed off to see what if any leaks you have and go from there.

Is that the braided rubber line? I was on ebay and they only seem sell it in like 2 meter lengths, any way to buy less?

Did an oil change today, along with changing the power steering filter, and the air filter.

The car is noticeably faster on the highway now and my gf says it idles a hair smoother, the air filter was pretty narsty.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5109.jpg

Power steering fluid didn't look too bad, I just drained the reservoir, changed the filter, and topped it off
IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/CincinnatiFiero/300D/DSCN5111.jpg[/IMG]
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5110.jpg

And heres the car, if anyone can tell me what is wrong with the plate I'll mail you a cookie.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5118.jpg

The car vibrates really bad, which is where I got the "the car has a low rpm miss" but I took it to a car friend and we thumbed through the service history. Three different dealer services says Notes: NEEDS MOTOR MOUNTS. I tried to move the motor with it not running there doesn't seem to be a substantial amount of play in the motor mounts. But when you turn it on the motor shakes like crazy. Moves the exhaust and everything. In my brief look at the service history I never saw mention that the motor mounts got replaced.

In terms of the misfire, the idle is rock solid at 600rpms. If it was misfiring it would be a little dodgy wouldn't it?

So here are my questions!

-How to check my motor mounts, and what is the maximum allowable movement.
-How hard are they to get out? The p/n is the same as my E320 parts car, if they aren't to bad I was going to try the used ones first before I spend a chunk of change on new ones.
-What about the transmission mount? Would that do anything? The movement of the motor is left to right though, not forward backwards, or up and down.

Still wondering about the fuel lines, where is a good place to buy it (cheap) and that end plug?

So the big plan for this car one weekend when school permits is:
*Remove intake manifold
-glow plugs
-injector nozzles
-clean intake
-adjust alda
-general de-grime
-remove EGR
-new intake gasket
*Remove tank
-new, or sealed old, or new sealed tank
-new strainer
-purge lines
-new fuel filters

Maybe I'll be super cool and paint the intake and elbow with some etch primer and gloss black.

The engine mounts are fluid-filled. If there is evidence that the liquid has leaked out, they're shot. If they are riding low, they're shot. Check fan to bottom fo the shroud clearance, if the fan is low in the shroud, they're shot.

If the mounts are collapsed, the engine probably won't rock in its mounts as easily as if the mouns are in good condition, it's supposed to move to isolate the engine and prevent transmitting vibration to the chassis.

So, probably shot, and used are a crap-shoot.

If it has a 'misfire', you'll feel it...both at idle and at speed (you'll feel a lopey power delivery up to maybe 2000 rpm, where it seems to smooth out). It's horrible at idle, noticeable from outside the car.

I broke an injector hard line (make sure you have the plastic clips!!!!), and was driving on 5 cylinders for a couple of days. My mounts are pretty much brand new and the idle was horrible.

Nice looking car :)

(It looks just like mine - even has a pin stripe. Medium red interior?)

Cars that run on 5 cylinders don't go 120mph pulling strong do they? The car sucks at low rpms but pulls like a train on the highway.

Yes it has medium red MB text.

Just so everyone knows where I am, this car has definite problems, and I am on a definite budget, but I love this car and do all my own work so it will be slow progress but I plan to fix this up and drive it for all the rest of school and beyond.

These motor mounts say they are german made, $60 for the pair seems like a good price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140304386879&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2&category =50454

Here are the pictures:
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5199.jpg

Is the mount fluid green?
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5200.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5201.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5204.jpg

When the car is running the mounts almost seem like the sit higher. The mount has a lot of movement in the bottom, almost as if it is isn't bolted down on the bottom. Here are pics when it is running, but it looks like the mount is held on at the bottom
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5207.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5208.jpg

Now we were talking about the ALDA, is this the cap that has to be destroyed? Maybe it hasn't been screwed with.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/DSCN5205.jpg

Here is a video of it running, watch the whole thing please, I take you inside the car so you can see the idle. I am not the steadiest person, so some of the shaking is me, but most is the car
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_DSCN5206.jpg

Here's a side-by-side picture I took of mine when I replaced them. Old versus new.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...4&d=1260645702

Could that green fluid be your windshield wiper fluid?

Mine looks to be flattened out like yours. It could be washer fluid, just babymog mentioned them leaking, that was the only sign of fluid I saw.

It appears from your video that the engine is missing at idle.
Loosen each injector line at the injector, one at a time, and see which one does not affect the idle. Likely one or more injectors needs replacement/rebuilding.

Some new nozzles came with the car I think they are those monark ones from eBay. Do those and new heat sheilds constitute a rebuild or do I need to buy other parts?

I'm out of town right now so I am posting from my phone

Honestly since it's just $100 for the nozzles and I have all 6 I'm not going to mess with looking for the bad one. When I get a non rusty tank I'll just do all 6. It's a 175k mile car that's been running on a a fine mix of rust for probably a couple years. It'll probably help to do all 6

I got a set of nozzles, they are from Italy. I also got a set of heat shields and a set of 6 complete used injectors to rebuild. Once I get the belt issue sorted and make sure the head didn't crack I'll be back on the road to making the 603 scream.

As it should.

I have half an urge to build a "fast" 603. I may be buying a parts car soon... spare motor... got a friend who is professional head porter... another friend welds aluminum... but that's just an inkling in the back of my mind haha SO much to address first.

Anything I need to know about rebuilding injectors? I was thinking about just putting then new nozzles and shields in the spare set of injectors I have that way I can just swap them out when I change tanks.

1) Your engine mounts are toast. Replace them ASAP. You'll be amazed at the difference.

2) The poor performance off-idle is most likely low fuel delivery off idle, which you can adjust via ALDA setting. However it could also be other things... you need to check the chain stretch and IP timing, and make sure the fuel system is clear (no plugged filters or tank strainer).

3) The hard shifting is directly related to the low power delivery. Shifting on this engine is a direct function of throttle position. Since you have your foot further into the throttle than it should be to product "x" horsepower, it shifts harder. Fix the power problem, and shifting should improve drastically.

4) Don't expect magical results with new/rebuilt injectors, but it won't hurt.

5) Your video didn't have sound (at least, not on my PC) so it's hard to tell if you have a misfire or not.

6) Check the ELR (electronic idle control)... round black knob near the brake booster, pull out, turn to 1, push in. Idle speed should drop. Pull out, turn to 7, push in. Idle speed should increase significantly. Set it back to 4 when you're done. If there was no change in idle speed, the ELR isn't working.

7) If you install an EGT gauge (or intercooler) you can max out the full load adjustment and get a moderate power boost, approx 15% or so. Beyond that you need more fuel, which requires larger pump elements ($$$$).


:euro:

More engine mount info:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/engine_mounts1.jpg
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/engine_mounts2.jpg
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/engine_mounts3.jpg

http://www.w124performance.com/image...ne_mounts4.jpg

GSX-R the gas tank is full of rust. I have a feeling running crusty fuel through them has probably been hard on the injectors. First order of business is to get a clean tank and strainer in there because I KNOW that is a problem. Fuel filter could stand to be done but I don't feel like fouling out a new filter a couple weeks before I swap tanks. I am just waiting for some free time from school to really dig into the car.

My friends mechanic (same guy responsible for the belt throwing issue) was saying something about the timing chain, how do I check the stretch to make sure it isn't out of spec?

Agreed my mounts look like crap. Good news! I came out a few bucks ahead on selling my jeep tonight (emphasis on a few, not a lot but a few) so I can treat myself to some mounts. What do you think of the $70 "german" ebay units? I'll go ahead and order them soon. The mounts don't look too hard to change... are they?

The filter should have kept any of the crud from reaching the injectors. If the filter plugs, you'll have drastically reduced power output. If you pull the fuel tank, make sure you replace ALL the rubber hoses down below the tank while they're disconnected. Well worth the $$, and you won't want to ever pull that tank again (it's not fun).



This is relatively easy - pull the valve cover, remove fan+clutch, rotate engine by hand with 27mm socket on the crank bolt, line up cam marks, read number off balancer. Repeat 4-5 times and average the results. If the valve cover gasket is old and hard, it should be replaced. A fresh one can be re-used multiple times.

It's unusual to have a 603 chain significantly stretched. The factory procedure is shown here. The marks you are lining up are shown in this photo. It's ok up to 4° stretch, past that it should get a new chain. (The TSB says 3°, but the FSM says 4°, btw). There will be almost no change in power or MPG though (BT, DT). As the chain stretches it will make the IP timing retarded by half the amount... i.e., if the chain is stretched 3°, the pump timing will be retarded approx 1.5°. If you don't replace the chain, adjust pump timing to advanced side of spec (14° ATDC), if you do replace the chain, adjust the pump *after* the new chain is rolled in, not before.



You want to use OEM mounts (Sachs / Boge / Lemfoerder / Corteco etc). Do not use Uro or FEQ mounts, or any no-name mounts, they won't last. The "good" aftermarket ones are usually about $60-$70 each, the junk ones are usually $30-$40 each. The parts guys tell me the cheap mounts tend to fail within 6-12 months. The good ones will usually last 75-100kmi. If it makes you feel any better, new OE/dealer mounts are $124 MSRP each for p/n 124-240-19-17.


:blink:

-The rubber lines that run the length of the car? Is there some sort of kit? Or do I just buy lengths? Standard fuel line or is it some sort of braided line like for the injector returns?

-On the chain he is saying the chain tensioner is bad, apparently it just "sounds" bad. To me it sounds like a slightly misfiring diesel not like the chain is way out of whack. When I pull the valve cover don't I have to pull the turbo crossover? Is that gasket re-useable? I am replacing the fan along with the belt tomorrow morning and maybe I'll give this a shot if I don't have to replace the turbo crossover.

-Another hit against the ebay mounts. It is sounding like tomorrow will be a $130 morning haha. ******** has the Febi/Bilsteins for like $65 each.

In terms of drastically reduced output my car is horribly slow down low but when the turbo comes on it does get up and move. It is my understanding that with a clogged filter diesels have a hard time revving. This car is like the inverse. It is a pain to drive around town because it is totally gutless but has no issues maintaining over 100mph on the highway. So I am pretty sure the turbo is fine.

I posted a pic of the alda a page or two back, it looks like it still has the cap on it. Do they fall out of adjustment on their own? I was thinking I don't want to screw with the alda until I replace all the filters because I don't want to have to go back and turn it down once I am black smoking all over the place.

The ALDA does go out of adjustment on its own, there is an adjustment ritual in the FSM but most of us will just go with the 1-1/2 turn CCW and see how it goes. First however, see if the ALDA will hold 1bar of pressure at the line from the intake plenum, then blow into the switchover/overboost valve it should blow through clear, and blow into the fitting in the intake plenum, it should blow clear. Sounds like ALDA or pressure/signal path problems.

On the engine mount, I'm installing a cooling duct to the hot-side one like the E320 and E420 have, think it'll extend the mount life once I find a new under-belly cover.

There are metal pipes running the length of the car. You want to replace the short rubber pieces between the tank and the hard lines... item #5 and #38 in this photo from the EPC. Should be part number 116-470-14-75 and 124-476-03-26, and no, they are not standard size hoses. About $25 for both. A new strainer & O-ring is p/n 124-470-01-06, another $20.


The tensioners rarely fail on the OM60x. It would probably manifest itself as a chain "rattle" on the passenger side. I've never encountered a bad one yet. If the chain was way out of whack (jumped tooth, etc) you'd have bent the valves already.


Yup, pull the turbo crossover pipe. The crossover pipe gaskets are re-usable multiple times, and the oval gasket is fairly cheap if you need to buy one. The thick green O-ring lasts almost forever. I hope you have the tools for the fan, otherwise it's a miserable job. With the proper tools you can have it off the car in <5 minutes.

:euro:


http://www.w124performance.com/image...belt_tools.jpg

Classic symptoms of low fuel delivery off idle - textbook case. :)


Correct again. Fuel supply or turbo issues would kill high-RPM power.


It's not really the ALDA, it's the injection pump itself. You tweak the ALDA setting to increase fueling. I also assume that you've checked the pressure lines leading up to the ALDA and that there is no restriction, particulary at the manifold fitting, or switchover valve (overboost protection). A simple test is to check boost pressure with a "T" at the ALDA.

Not likely you'd blow black smoke all over the place, except maybe at first as some carbon is cleared out of the engine. The ALDA R&R is pretty simple, and you can use a shim if you prefer to leave the tamper seal intact. Here's a photo tutorial - click the "ALDA_removal" links:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/


:scholar:

We pull the radiator to change the fan, takes about an hour. Kind of a pain in the ass but this car was going through radiators for a while so my friend who I bought it from and I have a radiator R&R on a W124 down to pit speed. The car had a broken up fan so it would spin off kilter and hit the radiator and puncture it. It happened twice. So its got the fan off my E320 parts car which has less cracking but some. I bought a brand new OE Fan so that needs to go on this weekend too.

I haven't done any troubleshooting when it comes to the ALDA. All I have is a boost gauge hanging around I don't have any vacuum tools. What tools do I need? Hopefully harbor freight or someone has some cheap tools to get my going, I can't afford to buy the best of the best right now.

Thanks again!

A Mity-Vac will prove to be very useful when troubleshooting the vacuum and pressure systems on this car. You can pick one up from HF for about $40... worth every penny.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?f=bylogo&logourl=mityvac.gif&brand=Mityvac

The actual mityvac is actual from Harbor Freight, it's like the culmination of my dreams!

I am halfway through the fan change right now, I needed to go to HF anyways to buy my dad one of their awesome $2.99 battery tenders anyways.

Hows the ecodiesel treating you TDI? I just picked up a clean 1990 gas GL and a rust but well running 1990 GL diesel, going to swap them and put the gas trans on the diesel motor.

Oh my. Just get the tools shown above (or fabricate them). I can swap fans on the 603 in literally 5 minutes. There's a Harbor Freight equivalent to the pulley holder for cheap. I'd rather spend that hour doing something else besides spilling coolant and ATF! :eek:



Boost gauge is fine - now get a "T" fitting so you can plumb it in at the ALDA, and enough hose so the gauge will go through the driver window while you drive.



You really need the dual-action MityVac that builds pressure also, not just the vacuum type. The ALDA needs to be tested with pressure, not vacuum. It looks like the old MityVac 4050 kit has been replaced with the MV8500, which does both...
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mitmv8500.html


:scooter:

Yeah, this is what I just bought. Sounds like I should return it.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...o/f0a80f90.jpg

If it's like mine, you pull the cap on the top fitting, that's pressure.

MV8000 is vacuum only, back to harbor freight I go tomorrow... I am going to see if they don't have some dirt cheap pressure device before I return it, isn't the ALDA the only think I need pressure to check it? I tried to buy the "good" vacuum pump but if I only need the pressure thing a couple times I'll cheap out.

You can check the ALDA with a little vacuum, if it leaks, it leaks.

The pressure type is used to check the ALDA for leaks, and can also be used to test Garrett wastegate operation, and the overboost safety switch trigger point. And, it doubles as a hand-held boost gauge, lol... run the tubing from the "T" in the ALDA line to the MityVac, and there's your 20psi boost gauge! But that is about all I can think of that I used it for. Most other items need vacuum for testing (central locks, climate control pods, etc). Forget using it for brake bleeding though, the Mity-Vac does not work well at all for brake bleeding. You need a decent pressure bleeder for that ($50 for the Motive Euro setup).

:1eye:

This is not a conclusive test. I tested some ALDAs which held vacuum fine but did not hold pressure. It's due to the shape of the shaft seal. The proper test is to apply pressure. A good ALDA will hold 15psi steady pressure without leaking down. Again, this only affects part-throttle power, not WOT power.


:batman:

I sit corrected.

ECOdiesel is running very well. Still starts at -20F (although it takes some effort), and that's pretty impressive for a 1.6 VW with that many miles. It has a few little tweaks, too... like a straight pipe and the fuel screw turned up (way up). Running about 12 pounds of boost. :cool:

Those orig alda drop fuel when you bush too much pressure of that.
I tested my 1 year old clock and when it reach 2bar it jump back to start point. So if you ST people use big boost you must limit the boost on alda at 1,2-1,5bar.

I solve broblem at make whole new alda.
http://kuvablogi.com/nayta/thmb/img2520631.jpg

http://kuvablogi.com/nayta/thmb/img2520633.jpg