easily and cheaply increasing the boost E300 turbo diesel W210 606
 

Here is a simple trick to fool the boost sensor a little. It does make the car more lively as the boost is slightly increased.

It started with a 10K resistor, then an 11K and now I have a 12K in, I'll stop there as I think its enough.
I tried a 9K but I will not recommended as not much gain.

The 10K should be the start, then this is up to you how far you want to go.

how to do it:
You just need to cut in half the blue/ red wire from the sensor ( as shown in the pictures)and connect the resistor to each ends.
I have attached those red clips fasteners( I have no idea how they are called) as it was easier to test different resistors and also the cable can be re-attach as normal easily, just take the resistor away and clip back the cable.

I have traced the cable under the box, its tidier, but this can be done at the sensor as well. Just make sure you got the right wire.

Do you have a boost gauge to see how much gain you're getting? I'm curious as to how much it fools the wastegate.

I have other mod in as well, this is why I didn't post it.
The MAX is still the same 21 PSI and then the wastegate open and it goes lower.
Without the resistor it reach under 20 PSI MAX then open.
I think its about 2 PSI gain max.
the car feel more alive at the start up tho.
There is also other factors, if I understand the boost work under load, then sometimes if I floor the car the boost does not goes as high and reach 18 or less as the gear box switches gears and rev goes high really fast. Dunno if I am clear here?

Hmm....

Dunno if adding mkore boost without extra fuel is worth the effort...
--What was your other mod...?

Before your mod, gear-change was normal?

--But After the mod, you're getting flaring when gears change...?:eek:
--Well, That was to be expected!:rolleyes:

Apart from Re-map, the 'accepted' way for tuning of 606 is use 603 mechanical pump,--maybe with 6.5mm or 7mm elements and alter fuelling, replace exhaust manifold (oem is restrictive design), better turbo, etc...
--All according how fast you wanna go....:D Custom manifold will set you back around 700 quid:eek:

Then you gotta look at the Trans--More power from engine will affect shift quality-As you've found--Much more power will kill it completely!:mad:

Hi Alastair,
What is flaring?
Gear change is still normal, never said it changed? It just goes highter faster. Is that flaring ?

Here it is, I think its about it but might be other I forgot:
Pipercross air filter
Modified air box with many holes to increase the air going through
AIT sensor that should increase the fuel as it suppose to tell the ECU or what ever that the air is cold, this will be helping with the extra boost
Different MAF then original
Bloqued the turbo sensor to the max limit possible without triggering any code
Alightly larger and much longer flexi silicone pipe going to the turbo sensor from the manifold ( dunno if this does anything but the idea was to retard slightly the opening of the wastegate as it'll take slightly longer for the sensor to get the reading)
Advanced the timing
got rid of the heat exchanger thermostat to get a better fuel flow as veg is thicker
EGR delete
And the above resistor now.
I forgot, this is the MAF that regulate the fuel flow, the boost sensor only tells the MAF when to open the wastegate, therefore its logic that the more air flow the MAF got, the more fuel it'll put into the cylinders, this of course at the capability of the pump, but all together it make sense. Nope?

Your thinking is impeccable, However it don't Quite work like that....

The ECU takes signals from sensors such as MAF and Boost-pressure sensor and then referrs to Pre-Set Internal Maps which are held in EEPROM inside the ECU.
--From the data obtained via sensors, it refers to a point on the map and this then says how much control-rod position/Fuelling to apply.

Your mods have altered slightly the data into the ECU, so its looking at a slightly different point on the Maps...
You may get some small gains, but nothing in compirason with either a Re-Map or pump/turbo replacement....

I didn't say the gain were as good as a remap, I know this is nothing compare to a remap (price wise:P) , but the gains are good, trully, the car is after all a lot more "lively".
Next on line would be a De-Cat. Then if I can put 50 quid all together I might do a dyno to see what is the HP on veg after all. I think I might be around 175 HP, reckon? :D

Bumping this as I don't know what is Flaring :confused:
Can Alastair/ anyone enlight me on this?
Cheers.

Flaring = longer than normal times in between gears, usually due to too much vacuum OR in your case more power from the engine.

Hi Winmutt,

thank you for this. I couldn't find anything else with the search beside
" I am not flaring" or " I have a little flaring" without explanation on what was flaring.
Then yes, I do have some flaring as the gears change at a slightly highter revs then when I got the car, making it more "sporty"/ receptif to the throttle.
Is that anything to worry about as Alastair looked worry about it?

Sometimes it seems there is a bigger turbo lag as well or this is me used to the car now kicking in usually right away, not like when I first got it when it was sluggish.

Again thank you for this, its nice to get the meaning :) .
All the best.
Olivier

[QUOTE=Alastair;2450988]Hmm....

Dunno if adding mkore boost without extra fuel is worth the effort...

More fuel? I did not add more fuel with almost 11 psi more boost.My best mod to insure fuel was there,was a electric boost pump.I run 23 psi,and she never cuts out

23 PSI. :wideeyed: woohooo!
This is good :D
Old Sinner, does it goes down as soon as it reaches 23PSI?
And what happen with high revs? My boost get lower the highter the revs?

At 23,I'm in another gear.

You have a manual do you?
Different set up with the auto compare to yours I think.