One of the differences between the 3.0 and 3.5 from what I've been told, has to do with the "torque control" setting, which is the large center adjustment toward the bottom of the pump.

This is from what I've been able to read and have been told: The FULL LOAD setting limits the maximum flow from the pump. You could turn this up, and never actually achieve max flow if the RPM, boost, and torque setting don't allow it. The Torque Control changes the limit of how much fuel will be allowed at full-throttle at any given RPM, or in some ways you might look at it as the potential enrichment.

On the 3.5L the engine had more displacement, made more power/rpm, so it had to have more fuel/RPM to do so. Using the 3.5L pump I can start with not adjusting this setting, and should already have more fuel at low-mid range RPMs full-throttle. It can be adjusted, but that is mostly something that will either be a SWAG/experimentation, or should be carried out on a proper FI bench, ... so I'd like to start with trying to replicate the 3.5L torque curve but extended out into the 5150rpm range (a simple adjustment) to create more hp, ... if you were to extrapolate the OM603.970 power curve out to 5150RPM that is what the stock torque settings of this pump should be able to create, with only adjusting the FULL LOAD setting and the HIGH IDLE setting. I realize that with a shorter stroke, I won't develop as much torque with the same settings, but that's minor IMO.

Next is increasing the Torque setting: In theory, eliminating it should approach allowing the full-load fuel at full-throttle right from idle (assuming boost at the ALDA). Lots of smoke and heat. Somewhere in-between, you will be able to alter the torque curve of the engine, even if the pump can't deliver enough fuel to create much more power at high RPMs, you could have enough fuel available to seriously increase the mid-range torque with enough boost, even with the stock 5.5mm elements. Further, the mid-RPM fueling isn't as sensitive to the end of injection timing as the mechanical/hydraulic/accoustic/combustion delays are constants, and are less in degrees of engine rotation (oh so slightly).

I also am considering something that was one of the biggests boosts to my Cat 3208 project years ago: Increase the high-idle setting a couple-hundred RPM above the operating range so that the full flow is available closer to max. operating RPM. The mechanical governor in the IP doesn't just cut fuel at 5150rpm, its flyweight design starts to affect the max flow avalable way before that point. Since I have an automatic transmission, and 2.65:1 gears, it'll be pretty difficult to over-rev the engine in Drive, ... and I have learned how to watch a tachometer decades ago, so I'm not to afraid of it. I'll be watching EGT more closely. This made my Cat so much stronger at higher RPM where I needed it, I was depressed that this free change was more than the many thousands$$ I spent on previous changes to the engine.

As always, I'll proof this after I post it, and notice the many errors in my logic.

I don't question that 7mm elements are a better way to go, should be good for 250+hp from a quick calculation, and an aftercooler. I have to assume that Mercedes specified the 5.5mm elements because they matched the engine, and there must be some reason that they didn't equip it with larger elements than necessary, such as better control (= better efficiency, emissions, mileage, idle quality or whatever) within normal operating ranges, I don't want to just stuff in 10mm elements because they're available for example. 7mm calculates out as a reasonable increase in area/volume. However, I'm already in this project, beyond budget, and scope-creep is not my friend. Those shiney bobbles will have to wait until the economy stops treating me like a dog treats a fire-hydrant.

edit: Looking at some simple math, from what I remember MYNA is using 7.5mm elements to produce over 450hp (maybe more now). If my elements were roughly half of that volume (the 5,5mm is roughly half of the area of the 7.5mm) then I should be able to produce roughly half of that hp, which would give me 225hp, assuming the same combustion efficiency (which we know is a decreasing ratio as you try to get more power from the same displacement). So why not 200hp from my pump and elements?

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Ah, I see. Interesting stuff, thanks for sharing. I've never delved into that setting.



Been there, done that, it works very well; even on a bone-stock pump. Just be careful about over-revving, which shouldn't happen as long as the tranny upshifts on time.



The guy with Floyd 7.5mm elements in his OM617 M-pump is getting >250hp. I'd expect ~300hp from an OM603 with the same elements.




Agreed; and also possibly due to cost. One guy tried 10mm (Chinese) elements in a MW pump and the results were not ideal. That thread is on the STD forum somewhere. Myna had been using 7mm for years but I thought I heard they are now also offering 8mm. (??)



The math doesn't compute directly because Myna does additional modifications. There is something we are missing besides the cross-sectional area of the element, most likely lift/stroke, which is an unknown (Myna may re-grind the cam; which is likely as their RIV timing specs are waaaaaay different from stock). My dyno tests have shown the 5.5mm elements on a 603 pump almost certainly can't produce more than 170-180hp. The 3.5L pump probably just shifts the delivery towards the lower RPMs while not actually pushing more total fuel quantity. It would be interesting to get spec sheet for the .97x pumps. I'd love to be proven wrong though, if you can get 200hp (or more) from a tweaked 3.5L pump with stock 5.5mm elements that would be awesome!

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Agreed, and agreed. I'd really be pretty happy with 180hp if it isn't smoking or running high EGTs, should be well within the turbo's range also. I'd be happier with 190 though.

As far as the 170hp-180hp, some have claimed that the pump is good for more, I don't know but hope to find out. If I weren't so cheap, Dave's Diesel here could put it on the bench, max out the flow, and calculate from the flow what the max theoretical hp would be. Was your trial with the stock KKK?

If I can do it, and I have a stronger launch and stronger mid-RPM power, it'll improve the car vastly over the normal driving range. My E320s had a really nice powerband, same gearing, and more power. Without the ASR the launch torque would exceed available traction. That was plenty. The goal is to have enough torque at low to mid-range throttle settings that I don't need to push the pedal down into the downshift range, which makes it so much more of a civilized feeling powertrain. Frankly, the only times I ever rev my car up over 3500rpm or so is when I want to blow the cobwebs out on an entrance ramp.

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I'm shopping around for a hy35.

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OBK #42

I've never seen anyone claim a stock 603 pump could produce more than 180hp, although I may have missed a thread somewhere. I also think the 180hp claim is with optimal conditions and top-notch fuel. Where I live we have been getting reduced-BTU, "enviro-friendly" diesel at the pump since roughly 2005-2006. This stuff reduces both horsepower and fuel economy by >5%, which is most likely why I wasn't getting more than ~170hp from my setup. The winter blend stuff is even worse. When I fuel up out of state (UT or central OR) my fuel economy picks up a solid 10% with summer fuel. Sometime I'd like to get a tankful of that stuff, drive home, and do a dyno run with it!



All my testing thus far has been with the stock KKK. I just ordered a 350SDL turbo that I will swap on, hopefully within a month or so.



Heh-heh. That's a traction problem needing to be solved! Wider wheels, tires, and LSD will help.



My 6mm pump with stock KKK turbo (and stock everything else, really) is incredibly strong in the low & mid RPM range. The maxed out 5.5mm pump was great, but the 6mm pump is even better. If I didn't have LSD and 225-section tires, I'd likely have traction problems. Around town, the 6mm pump feels like an M119, and rolling on part throttle it feels even stronger, believe it or not. Seriously fun for a diesel!

That's on fresh 225 Michelins. I'd go with something stickier, but that would degrade the ride.

Also, the '90 & '91 OM603.970 is a pressure wastegate, and according to the FSM that's original, so you should be golden.

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Yes, my car has a "normal" pressure wastegate.

Yep I am just going to buy a used hy35 with the 9cm housing as well and figure out the manifold once I have it. Assuming you are going on eBay so why don't you PM me your eBay nic so we don't bid against each other and I will do the same.

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2007 Ram 2500 6.7l

I assume you are talking about the intake manifold? I've also been looking on cl via search tempest.

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1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
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#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

No exhaust manifold. I am going to mod my 300 SDL pump like gsxr now that he has shown me I need more turbo The intake side I am assuming I can do with silicone and tubes. I know it is a T3 but the HY35 is not going to bolt up to the stock OM603 exhaust manifold properly is it?

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1986 300 SDL - rolling parts car and test bed.
1987 300 SDL - semi daily driver.
1977 U1000 Unimog
2007 Ram 2500 6.7l

T3 is a t3. They are all the same. Problems might be space between engine and the body. Also oil feed and drain and exhaust. Other than that it *should* be pretty straight forward.

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1995 E420 Schwarz
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#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Agreed on the *should* but I guess I mean I am not going to spend hours on the interweb trying to answer the manifold question when I bet a used one to start a mock up can be had for <$100

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1986 300 SDL - rolling parts car and test bed.
1987 300 SDL - semi daily driver.
1977 U1000 Unimog
2007 Ram 2500 6.7l

If I was going to make a "mock" I would source the euro SDL exhaust mani.

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1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Or the exhaust manifold and plumbing from a W140 w/ 603.

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Any updates Dave?

I have found that the wastegate actuator rod on the Garrett T-30 55 (as supplied on the .970 engine) will adjust beyond 20psi, one less item to customize!

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- Jeff