Well im tryn to keep in mind im not looking for much over stock out put. Or what the factory pump will allow me to do. Plans are to rebuild head, check block. Have the factory turbo rebuilt. Go thru the ip. Reseal every thing and get a non turbo intake manifold and call it good. My goal is 200ftlbs . If the rings are healthy enough.

Im hoping thats a realistic number.

it just dawned on me. i need to wire teh 617's harness into my jeep. is the engine bay harness hard to remove ? and does it only conect to the engine and fuse box c101?

that harness in my damn jeep has every thing in it: heat lights engine ... its dumb. but im guessing this old diesel shouldn't be too hard. fingers crossed :)

There's hardly any wiring at all on an OM617 - I don't know how the jeep works - but I wouldn't be worried about the wiring. You've got glow plugs, a starter, and an alternator to make it go (although a non working alternator won't stop a running OM617!). Things like oil pressure are most commonly done by a pressure tube (although there are "electronic" versions too) and then there's the water temperature sensor and a tachometer if you want it.

This is a real post EMP engine!

Leave the motor stock and don't waste a dime on performance improvements until you've tweaked the pump and evaluated. You can't compare an IDI turbo mercedes diesel to the DI cummins engines as far as torque curves. Turbo lag will be your biggest complaint so make sure you have a good crawl ratio. The stock small turbo is what you want for wheeling. Of the 2 turbos that the engine came with, the KKK should provide better low end than the garrett.

Here's a doc that explains tweaking the pump, penned by OM616

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1NavsR2Omiur1WTJtJNr4BDsiP-cuSYuw9yupWNJ1HNc/edit

^ i like the sound if that.

And thoughts on running a autometer disel tach from the mercedes harnes? I believe ill be runnin all after market gauges. Stewart or vdo would be good too.

I got a chance to look a broncho that was wired to the factory harness. But the guys wire work was so shotty i couldnt realy figure out what he did other than make a rats nest/fire hazard.

I decided to not go with a cummins due to the weight & cost / likly to break and twist things.

Ill go thru your link here later. An read thru. I plan to send the injectors out to have em brought up too speed.

My plan is to install the engine get any bugs worked out. Get my ip running top notch. Lash the lifters. Fresh fuel, filters and glows. Check the turbo .

I do need and exhuast system. Any one runnin 3 inch pipe? I have a bunch of it figure use it.

Yeah, if she runs fine don't bother tearing it apart-just do basic maintenance and get it all tuned up. Then turn the pump up a little bit and report back

So heres the issue . The car dont like to fire up. once its running it runs like a champ. Its 32*f today. the glow plug relay i dont think is working. And all the glow plugs mite be bad as well. I tried jumping the circuit at the 50amp fuse and had no change.

So im off to read up on checking that glow unit.

If you're unsure of the wiring, run a jumper wire frome each of the 5 GP's to a cheap Ford starter silenoid and then wire to the battery from the silenoid with an 80 amp fuse. Set up a push button and hold down manually to power GP's with time depending on outside temp. Easy peasy, simple and reliable.

Id like to get the unit working. I have 5 new. Bosch glows on the way. But your idea had crossed my mind would be simple.

Um on the 300d . How does the key shut the engine off?

it turns off by a vacuum pod on the back of the ip. This could be replaced with a simple pull cable.

Tell me more please. Im preping for install.

Remove the vacuum shutoff valve, and replace with an appropriately sized blockoff plate.

Attach a "choke cable" to the linkage, so that when you pull it the linkage is pushed in the same direction as the 'STOP' lever on the side of the valve cover. Make sure there is enough slack in the line to allow the linkage to still move through it's running range of motion.

Another way to keep things mechanical is to run a vac line from the IP shutoff into the cabin, and attach it to a 5cc syringe or other method of pulling a vacuum.

Thought: What if i put a ball valve in a vac line from the vac pump. Too that diafram then let the engines own vac shut it down like normal? I figure its gona have vac till the engine stops rotating.

Also i should proly do the same to my brake booster get it in line to the v pump.

That is perfectly acceptable as well. The goal is to get vacuum to the shutoff actuator, or to push/pull the linkage into the 'stop' position.

You can give constant vacuum to the brake booster, with a check valve inline to hold the vacuum after the car is shut off