PAID !
 

Hey guys , don't screw up and miss out on this .

So, I'm assuming that means no plans to make another batch of new OFV's? I am still hesitant to order just the spring itself, for the same reasons that I stated above...

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OK, updates,

4 springs left. Just physically put my hands on the remainders.

I am planning on getting some new stock in, however, not sure when. I know it will not be during August. Too damm hot to do anything. Still doing injectors, but my turn around time is longer since I can only really tinker 5AM to 7AM, but I have to be super quiet.

I will update this thread when I get some in. Thanks in advance.

Wow ~ that was fast :P .

THANK YOU .

I can't wait to get time to install them.

Let me know how it works buddy.I'm back on the mend now.

Hopefully next week , O.K. ? .

I cobbled up a pressure gauge and it failed on the test drive , pissed Diesel Fuel all over my clean engine , I'm waiting for a better quality liquid filled gauge to arrive now , I want to see the actual pressures before and after .

Good to hear you're doing better .

you're very welcome. Keep me posted on how the ol' girl does.

Question :
 

I've been too busy to touch this until to - day I added a nice American made liquid filled 0 ~ 60 # pressure gauge and with either the old valve or a brandy new (sealed,can't be adjusted) factory valve , the gauge twitches quite a bit at idle , once revved up it smooths out a fair bit but the gauge's needle never really is steady .

Is this O.K. ? .

The old original valve with hand streatched spring varies between 10 ~ 23 PSI , the new one from Mercedes goes from 0 ~ 20 PSI .

I'm wondering if I have another problem I should address .

Clean fuel and filters .

Comments , opinions and ideas please .

TIA ,

wow so no real change.How about seat of the pants feel?Maybe more power at certain rpms.Could one just use a cylinder shaped shim?

So, if I understand the post correctly, you've installed my spring and experienced zero change? If so, feel free to return for a full refund plus up to $6.00 shipping. Please PM to let me know either way.

READ CAREFULLY PLEASE !
 

I apologize for not being clear :

When last I wrote , I'd fiddled about but HAD NOT YET INSTALLED THE NEW SPRING .

Here is a pic. of my valve taken apart and cleaned with the new spring ready to install :

Attachment 137796

CLEARLY it is a stronger spring (more coils) than the old , worn out original one I removed .

If you look at the old spring (upper of the two) you can see where it's worn on the left end from the ball bearing pressing into it for 409,000 + miles .

Adding this new up graded spring increased the transfer pressure to 24 PSI and the engine is now as smooth as silk , off idle .

I'm convinced my I.P. is worn out as no matter what I do the engine rocks @ idle .

AT ANY SPEED OVER IDLE THE THROTTLE RESPONSE IS FANTASTIC ! .

You will NOT regret this inexpensive up grade ! .

I am very sorry I wasn't clear before , I am pleased as punch with this and can't wait to add the second spring I bought to my Euro Spec. Wagon .

Here's a photo of some old worn out springs I foolishly tried to stretch , the simple fact is : after a few million cycles any spring gets metal fatigue and needs replacing , luckily you're able to get these from Greazer and install them at home in your driveway in 20 minutes , this includes cleaning the engine before you begin and cleaning the inside of your old valve before installing the new spring ~ so far every single valve I have taken apart , has had some dirt in it , if only super fine smooth black fungus stuff . fuel injection systems are very sensitive to any dirt or dust and this is a critical part .

Attachment 137797

MY APOLOGIES TO GREAZER who has been very good here , shipped Fastfastfast and is doing us a service by selling these .

Thank you sir !

I've heard of folks trying to 'unspring' their spring by pulling it apart. Other than something which visually appears to 'fix' the problem, it really doesn't. Once a spring or any other part degrades, it's degraded.

Once the heat starts to subside, I will be back on track tinkering in the garage. Injector service is running behind around a week except for those few folks who indicated they need them ASAP and lift pumps are in the same boat (except one).

? Lift Pumps ? .

You do a thing there too ? .

I am about 99% sure that your Injection Pump itself is alright so far but your idle damper srew is worn.

Attachment 137836

You can try to loosen the nut and screw it in a little more. But mostly you need a new one as it is not repairable. New ones range around 60-100$. Easy to change, takes ~15 min.

Procedure for the new one is to:
- screw it in 3-4 turns
- start engine and let it idle (engine has to be completely warm!)
- screw it in further until shaking reduces (maybe already disappears)
- one more turn
- counter with the lock nut
- that´s it

If the shaking is not completely gone yet, drive a few days. It needs a while to settle.


Also your lift pump probably wouldn´t mind some overhauling after 400k+ miles... :D


Gruß
Volker

Engine Shaking @ Idle
 

THANK YOU Volker ! .

My Coupe doesn't have the gold (up graded) rack damper bolt so I didn't think it wise to fool with it .

I keep looking at junked injection pumps hoping to find a gold one , no luck so far .

I'll give this adjustment a go and report back .