PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/)
-   General Information (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/)
-   -   How to build a diesel injector pop tester (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/224334-how-build-diesel-injector-pop-tester.html)

cornblatt 06-06-2008 06:37 PM

How to build a diesel injector pop tester
 
4 Attachment(s)
I just finished building an injector pop tester. I thought I would post instructions here on how it was made since I couldn’t find anything online written for people like me who want to build one but don’t know anything about anything. ( :confused: <-- me )

The reason for building a tester is to see what pressure your injectors spray at (they should be matched to each other within 3 bar), to see their spray pattern (the spray should be well atomized and narrow), and to see if they leak. You can pay a diesel shop to do this, but it is costly ($60-$70 for the test, and $60+ per injector to adjust if needed). I actually took mine to a shop earlier this year and they said they were fine, but I wanted to see for myself.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...5&d=1212790851

If improperly built or used this tool could explode or squirt you in the eye or something, so the usual disclaimer applies:
  1. What worked for me may not work for you. Use common sense and stop if something looks wrong – don’t just blindly follow the instructions without thinking.
  2. Take all necessary safety precautions and don’t do anything that is beyond your level of expertise.
  3. If you hurt yourself or break something while building or using your homemade tester, it’s not my fault! You made a choice to follow instructions you got off the internet from someone you don’t even know.
Design Considerations
Bottle Jack vs. Grease Gun
There appear to be two common designs for homemade injector testers – they are either based on a grease gun or a bottle jack to generate pressure. I initially tried the grease gun approach because it seemed easier (it has threaded fittings on it, a reservoir to hold fluid, etc.) but after unsuccessfully trying 3 different models of grease gun, and after using the bottle jack version, I would advise against using a grease gun. The grease guns don’t seem to be designed to pump something as thin as diesel, and their seals leak all over the place. They can’t hold pressure for more than a fraction of a second so rapid continuous pumping is required. The best grease gun I got could only reach 75 bar of pressure with diesel fuel, and fuel was seeping from it everywhere at the time.

The main challenge with building a bottle jack tester is that you need to have a means of attaching a threaded fitting to the giant nut at the top of the jack. You must either have the tools to drill and tap giant holes (3/4” to 1”), or you need to have welding equipment. I had neither so I had to take the parts to a welding shop and pay them to do it. This isn’t the place for plastic pipe and epoxy; you need a proper connection here due to the high pressures involved (potentially over ~150 bar / 2000 PSI). Come up with a plan before you start buying stuff! This was the most time consuming part of the project. The home depot plumbing aisle won’t help you no matter how long you stare at it…

edit: here's a good animation of how a bottle jack works - http://www.hyjacks.net/animation.htm

Gauge Sizing
Many of the commercial injector testers you can buy seem to come with a 5000PSI (350 bar) gauge. In my opinion, this seems useless for Mercedes injectors; you want to balance the injectors to within 3 bar, but the scale markings on a 350 bar gauge are 10 bar apart, so the scale of the gauge is too large to let you measure something as small as 3 bar in a repeatable manner. I went with a 150 bar gauge (my injectors are supposed to be set to 115-125 bar). On this gauge, the markings are 2.5 bar apart and you can easily measure to ~1 bar. Don’t get an incorrectly sized gauge or your tester will be useless. The gauge I used was inexpensive, however the pressures I measured from my injectors were within 1 bar of what was reported by the diesel injection shop that tested them earlier this year, so the gauge appears to be reasonably correct.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6&d=1212790862

Instructions
Parts List (see picture below). Most parts are available at Princess Auto.
  • Gauge, 150 bar, ¼” NPT male, glycerin-filled
  • Shutoff valve, 3000PSI, ¼” NPT female
  • Coupler, 90°, ¼” NPT male
  • Tee, ¼” NPT
  • Coupler, ¼” NPT male to #6 ORB (ORB = O-Ring Boss)
  • Pressure valve holder / delivery valve holder (is that the right name?) from a 1980s VW diesel. This is the thing on the VW injection pump that the injector lines attach to.
  • Metal injector line from an older VW diesel or Mercedes. The VW ones are nice because they are pre-bent with the ends 90° apart. The Mercedes ones have the ends parallel. This part plus the one above plus a VW diesel injector were $4 at the auto wrecking yard.
  • Bottle jack, 2 ton (not pictured)
  • Coupler, 1” NPT male to ¾” NPT female (not pictured)
  • Inline fuel filter (important, not pictured)
  • JB Weld (http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php)
  • Teflon tape, misc. screws, plastic tubing, wood, etc. (not pictured)
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...7&d=1212790867

The first step is to disassemble the bottle jack by loosening the giant nut on the top. Remove it carefully and do not hang on to the jack by the outer cylinder. It is full of disgusting oil and the only thing holding it to the jack is the nut you’re removing.

Carefully pick the jack up by the base and dump out the oil. The outer cylinder should just pull off – it is not fastened in any way. Be sure to keep the plastic seal at the base. Pull out the piston and dump out any additional oil inside. You won't be reinstalling the piston.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...8&d=1212790872

End of part 1 of 2 (split due to forum post length limit)

cornblatt 06-06-2008 06:38 PM

Part 2 of 2
 
5 Attachment(s)
Part 2 of 2 (split due to forum post length limit)


The giant nut from the top of the jack contains an o-ring that you should remove. Then you must somehow attach a threaded fitting to the top of the jack nut. I used a 1” NPT male to ¾” NPT female reducer and had it welded. You might be able to tap the top of the jack nut and thread in a fitting, but the metal isn’t that thick and it could be tricky to get a tight seal. This joint is under a lot of pressure and needs to be secure; you will definitely need to either tap it and screw in a fitting or have it welded (real welding, not JB-Weld). Mine was welded on the outside, so just to be safe, I sealed it with a layer of JB weld on the inside (the welder warned me that sometimes tiny cracks in the weld may cause a leak so I thought the extra layer of JB weld couldn’t hurt).

The jack nut also has a tiny hole on the side that you will need to plug. Drill the tiny hole out and tap it for 8-32 thread, but only tap it ¾ of the way through. Then, insert an 8-32 threaded screw until it binds. Cut it off and file it smooth. Seal it inside with JB Weld. Don’t insert the screw so deep that it extends inside the nut, or you won’t be able to reassemble the jack.

The jack’s inner cylinder has a very very tiny pinhole hidden in the threads that you will need to plug. I super-cleaned it and sealed it with JB Weld inside and out. Be sure to clean up the threads before the JB Weld hardens.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...9&d=1212791914

Take the outer cylinder of the jack and attach some sort of supply line where you can add diesel fuel. It should have a hole in the side already, plugged with a rubber stopper. I JB-welded a PEX 90° copper plumbing fitting to the side (the fluid here is not under pressure so in this case JB weld alone is suitable).

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...0&d=1212791920

To make a fluid reservoir, I took an old food can and JB welded another PEX fitting to the bottom. Inside the can, the PEX fitting extends up about 3/8” and I attached a piece of cloth to the top of it. This is important as it lets any debris settle to the bottom of the reservoir without risk of it being drawn into the tester. The inline fuel filter should be installed between the reservoir and the jack. Dirt is your enemy – even the tiniest speck of dirt can cause the pintle in the injector to seize up.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1212791925

You should also prepare a jar into which the injectors can spray. I drilled out the lid of a tall glass food jar so that it would thread onto the injector. The fuel that sprays out of the tester is at extremely high pressure and can penetrate your skin and cause poisoning, so the use of the jar prevents accidental contact with the spray. In addition, the spray is so fine that you produce a fog of diesel that lingers for tens of minutes; the jar captures this so you don’t inhale it. Plus, faulty injectors can spray at crazy angles, so keeping the nozzle down inside the jar makes sure you don’t get an unexpected blast of diesel in your eye.

Clean everything, and put it all together as shown in the picture, using LOTS of teflon tape on every threaded fitting, particularly on the VW fitting where it connects to the #6 ORB fitting, and the top of the jack cylinder where the jack nut screws on.
Before you begin testing, fill the reservoir with diesel, and pump the jack handle. You should not have an injector installed at this time. Pump until ~1/2 cup of fuel has been run through the system, to ensure that any dirt has been flushed out.

I initially tried testing injectors with something other than diesel (e.g. canola oil), but the injectors respond much differently to vegetable oil – they just spray a solid stream and dribble. Since the car runs on diesel, testing the injectors with diesel seemed to be the best way to simulate how they work when they’re in the car.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...2&d=1212791933

Note that the two pictures below are taken approximately 1/20th of a second apart.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...3&d=1212791938

If you have Bosch DN 0 SD 240 nozzles with the hole-type pintle, an initial jet sprays out the hole in the pintle prior to the actual spray – if you have these nozzles and see this jet, it isn’t a sign of a malfunctioning injector! This can sometimes be hard to test for; I found it worked well to build the pressure really slowly and carefully – this lets you see the initial jet before the pressure gets high enough that the injector pops.

The valve on the tester was intended for disconnecting the gauge during rapid pumping so it doesn’t get damaged by banging around with wild pressure changes. I put it in because the tester in the Mercedes factory service manual had one. But, after building the tester, I don’t think it is really necessary (and at $17, the most expensive item in the parts list). The bottle jack tester holds pressure so well that the needle doesn’t fly around even during rapid testing – it just wiggles right near the injector’s pop pressure. Once you stop pumping, the pressure holds just a hair below the injector’s pop pressure (it gradually declines over a time period of a minute). If your tester is leakier then maybe you need the gauge…

With the tester, I was able to get all of my injectors balanced to within 1.5 bar. They were 4.5 bar apart before adjustment.

jt20 06-06-2008 06:53 PM

You Are The Man!

jt20 06-06-2008 07:02 PM

Would this also be feasible on the car?

take out glow pugs, attach different hardlines, put each injector in a can, rotate crank?

you wouldn't get the measured accuracy for sure.. but just for a pattern test?

compu_85 06-06-2008 07:06 PM

Great how-to!

mobetta 06-06-2008 08:32 PM

nice write-up...

oldiesel 06-06-2008 09:16 PM

Excellent job,the neatest i have seen of home built pop testers! I have an old WW2 vintage navy surplus one that looks like it was made from a jack,but it actually was supplied by Buda diesel engine company,still working after all these years.The nice one you built will probably still work 50yrs from now too. My $.02 Don

jbaj007 06-07-2008 01:24 AM

cornblatt,
Yours puts mine to shame ;) (post #11 in the linked thread).

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/123573-anyone-know-how-use-diesel-pop-tester.html?highlight=california

RichardLSU 06-07-2008 10:07 AM

Masterfully done.

cornblatt 06-07-2008 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbaj007 (Post 1876721)

I thought that picture looked familiar - your tester was what inspired me to build my own! I came across a picture of yours elsewhere on the internet about a year ago, and I saved the photo in my list of things-I-will-do-someday because I thought it was a really clever idea.

I wish I had seen that thread before I started! It would have saved me a lot of trial-and-error steps. There's a post on there (#16) that describes almost the same method I ended up using, but I did it wrong 4 times before finally arriving at that method... :o

jbaj007 06-07-2008 03:19 PM

I'm glad you liked mine. It has served well, for me, and a couple of friends' cars, also.

Yours brings DIY to a pro level plane, however; and your pictorial write-up is soooooooo good.

Oddly enough, I had made one, initially, that I had the upper nut/adapter welded onto, but it leaked so badly that I was forced to go to the large pipe threader to get that part to seal.

C Sean Watts 06-07-2008 03:43 PM

Well done.
 
I did the DIY and it didn't last 6 tests prompting me to get a factory one.

Another hazard is not just fuel in the eye. If you have any injected into the skin (quite possible even at HALF normal pressure) it can be FATAL. So, keep fingers away from the stream.

rkpatt 08-18-2008 10:04 AM

I am thinking about putting one of these together . Sean - What failed ?

BTW -I wonder if the fittings (brass ?) on this one are rated for high pressures ?
Would using a portapower type pump from HF or Northerntool (like this - http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200333147_200333147 ) be OK ? . If so , it appears to eliminate need for the big tap and or welding .


Quote:

Originally Posted by C Sean Watts (Post 1877076)
I did the DIY and it didn't last 6 tests prompting me to get a factory one.

Another hazard is not just fuel in the eye. If you have any injected into the skin (quite possible even at HALF normal pressure) it can be FATAL. So, keep fingers away from the stream.


Mister Byrnzoil 08-18-2008 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C Sean Watts (Post 1877076)
I did the DIY and it didn't last 6 tests prompting me to get a factory one.

Another hazard is not just fuel in the eye. If you have any injected into the skin (quite possible even at HALF normal pressure) it can be FATAL. So, keep fingers away from the stream.


There is a recommended non tox test fluid (not normal veggie oil)

gymi 10-17-2008 08:55 AM

Hey, thanks for taking the time to post your tester info. It helps alot. I have been thinking of building a tester but thinking is far a I progressed. Good pictures.

85 190 d
84 190 d
87 300td

kickit 10-20-2008 01:05 AM

how did you balance the injectors?
 
cornblatt: Is balancing the injectors a matter of changing the width of the spacers until the pressure is correct? Or is there some other magic way :)

Excellent DIY BTY. I think I'm gonna build one.

cornblatt 10-20-2008 11:12 AM

Yes, you swap out the spacers until you get the right pop pressure. It's kind of tedious as you must disassemble and reassemble the injector for each test. But, 0.05mm of thickness corresponds to approximately 3 bar difference in pressure, so after the initial test of each injector you know approximately what amount of change you are looking for.

When I did it, I had eight junkyard injectors that I used for spare parts. I disassembled them, and then took some digital calipers and measured and sorted the spacers and springs by size. By using the 12 sets of spacers and springs (8 from the junkyard and 4 from my injectors) in different combinations, it was possible to bring my four injectors into spec.

In theory you can just order new spacers of the desired size, but you'd have to know what size you need first...

bgkast 11-14-2008 06:41 PM

1 Attachment(s)
OK, I just got my pop tester finished up and am having some trouble. I can barely get the pressure up to 2000 psi with ATF in the tester, and only about 1500 psi with D2 pumping as fast as I can. When I stop pumping the pressure falls to zero in less than a second.

Is the pressure supposed to fall this quickly? What could be the problem, an internal leak in the jack? I may try pulling it apart and using some thread-seal tape on the top threads of the jack cylinder. Maybe my $10 harbor freight jack is a POS.

Any other ideas or tips?

cornblatt 11-14-2008 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast (Post 2021501)
OK, I just got my pop tester finished up and am having some trouble. I can barely get the pressure up to 2000 psi with ATF in the tester, and only about 1500 psi with D2 pumping as fast as I can. When I stop pumping the pressure falls to zero in less than a second.

Is the pressure supposed to fall this quickly? What could be the problem, an internal leak in the jack? I may try pulling it apart and using some thread-seal tape on the top threads of the jack cylinder. Maybe my $10 harbor freight jack is a POS.

Any other ideas or tips?

Your tester looks nice!

With the injector screwed on tightly, the pressure should hold without the need to keep pumping the handle. Mine will slowly drop due to leakage, maybe a few bar (less than 100psi) per second.

I assume you can't see any fluid leaking anywhere, so it must be an internal leak inside the jack. I used a low-grade chinese-made sub-$10 jack (actually two - I ruined one during construction :o) and they both had no trouble holding the pressure once everything was sealed. So, the jack should be able to do the job. Check that the pinhole at the top of the cylinder is still sealed (on my first attempt at building the tester, I only JB-welded one side of the pinhole and the JB-weld popped free and caused a problem similar to what you describe). Also, definitely use teflon thread seal tape where the jack nut attaches to the cylinder. It sounds like you are on the right track...

Graminal95 11-14-2008 09:34 PM

I can only tell you that my pop test that looks just like yours looses virtually no pressure unless it goes out the injector. I did use a 15 dollar jack and it did not have the hole in the top of the tube to be fill with JB weld. Also you should use something like ultra gray silicone instead of teflon tape on all oil/fuel fittings as the tape can break off and get stuck in the sintered metal injector filter, or the small oil holes of the engine....ask how I know!

I also put a rolled up coffee filter in the center tube, where the piston used to be to catch any small particles that might clog the sintered metal injector filter.

bgkast 11-14-2008 09:47 PM

Thread tape did the trick. Thanks!

whunter 03-10-2009 11:08 AM

Links for some commercial units
 
http://www.ntxtools.com/fuelsystem/otc4200.htm

http://www.rocken-tech.com/Injector_Tester.html

http://www.thompsondiesel.com/diesel%20test%20equip.htm

http://www.google.com/products?rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&q=diesel+injector+pop+tester&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=IYW2SbLzE5iyMbam9dUK&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title

Ebay search words: injection tester
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/items/injection-tester_W0QQ_newuZ1QQ_sopZ1?_rdc=1

Ebay search words: diesel injector tester
http://shop.ebay.com/items/diesel%20injector%20tester?_dmd=1&_sop=12

whunter 03-10-2009 11:25 AM

Other related links
 
Another home made unit.
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/6111024582

Which pressure gauge for a pop tester?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/162026-pressure-gauge-pop-tester.html#post1251083

Injection pump bench test?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/193585-injection-pump-bench-test.html#post1558635

what to clean out injector chambers?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/167142-what-clean-out-injector-chambers.html#post1300759

Finally got the injector tester set up!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/87248-finally-got-injector-tester-set-up.html

A fantastic DIY link. :D
HOW-TO: Rebuild Diesel IDI Injectors
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=28

vitop 04-27-2009 08:38 PM

how did it work?
 
After calibrating so closely, how did the car run?

cornblatt 04-27-2009 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vitop (Post 2186106)
After calibrating so closely, how did the car run?

The four injectors were within 4.5 bar before adjustment, and within 1.5 bar after. There was no perceptible change in how the car ran after adjusting them this closely (they were reasonably well matched to begin with).

rkpatt 04-28-2009 07:24 AM

Somewhere I saw a list of part # s from Mcmaster.com . Could someone who has it , please add it to this thread . - Thanks

whunter 04-28-2009 02:21 PM

Answer
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rkpatt (Post 2186497)
Somewhere I saw a list of part # s from Mcmaster.com . Could someone who has it , please add it to this thread . - Thanks

Easy homemade pop tester
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/251436-easy-homemade-pop-tester.html

svendb 03-03-2010 09:46 PM

Great tester,thinking of buying one($450.00) Will now make my own thankyou.

Archangel 06-12-2010 12:21 PM

The real issue that you solved with the Teflon tape on the pipe threads was the O ring between the top of the pipe where it contacts the Jack nut.
The piston shaft keeps the O ring in place between the pipe and jack nut, and removing that shaft allows the seal to fall inward (assuming you even reinstalled the O ring as one of the two jacks I purchased for this project did not even have one).

In the original write up I don't even remember him even mentioning the part of the project where the pressure needs to be contained between the internal pipe and top jack nut.

I just cut a 1 inch piece of the hollow piston shaft and just JB welded that piece into the main pipe with a bit of it sticking out just high enough to help retain the O ring when JB welding the pin hole.

I'm willing to bet that one guy that had it fail so soon had the O ring slip out, (or inward) and stopped sealing the gap.

Other than that important issue, nice write up.

My first one will be all Purple with Yellow barrel/pump and all Red with a Yellow barrel and top nut (the only colors of powdercoat I had left).

I will also be adding the Teflon tape to tighten things up and as added pressure security.


Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast (Post 2021501)
OK, I just got my pop tester finished up and am having some trouble. I can barely get the pressure up to 2000 psi with ATF in the tester, and only about 1500 psi with D2 pumping as fast as I can. When I stop pumping the pressure falls to zero in less than a second.

Is the pressure supposed to fall this quickly? What could be the problem, an internal leak in the jack? I may try pulling it apart and using some thread-seal tape on the top threads of the jack cylinder. Maybe my $10 harbor freight jack is a POS.

Any other ideas or tips?


Archangel 06-18-2010 09:25 PM

WARNING!! BE CAREFUL!!!!!!
 
Well, let's see.

The welding on the top nut did not go so well.
External Leaks!
RE-WELD!
External Leaks!
RE-WELD!
External Leaks!
Try brazing instead!

No external leaks at all, that is until it got to about 1800 psi, then POP the top blew off where the brazing was with a huge cloud of diesel fuel that sprayed everywhere!

There were no injuries but I did need to change clothes and take a shower!

But before it blew the top off, there were massive internal leaks that the pipe tape would not fix no matter how much I applied, and I even got some of that thicker tape that slowed it down some and the pressure would rise but it would not hold at all.
Looking at the design, those top threads were never meant to hold pressure, but the seal on the piston was.
Also my idea of a seal up top did not hold pressure either.

Also where the top nut contacts the barrel, there are no provisions in the original design to seal it.
If the fluid level in the external reservoir is higher than the top of the barrel, the air will vent through the tiny gap and the fluid will rise and then overflow leaking out, hence the original fill plug mounted only 1/2 way up the tube!
I solved this leakage issue with a tiny diameter "O" ring between the two.

Other than that one guy with the internal pressure leakage issue, I can't believe nobody else has mentioned, or had any of the other issues.

I'm going to duplicate the piston out of brass with a hole through it to the top for the fluid to pass through going directly to a "T" fitting that threads into it.

I will also have the original seal mounted lower in the tube than the pin hole so that it and the top nut threads will not have to hold any hydraulic pressure.

It will be just like the original bottle jack design only the piston will not move, and instead of the screw on top there will be a pipe thread fitting.

There will also be a Plexiglas spray shield between me and the unit at all times!

bmwpowere36m3 08-09-2010 09:57 AM

What are you guys using for shut-off valves? The cheapest one from McMaster-Carr rated for 2000psi is ~$35 (4024T71).

cencarnacion 02-05-2011 09:08 PM

Modification
 
I am in the process of building a pop tester based on Cornblatt's design. However, I read in some MB manual that the valve functions to control the rate at which injector pressure increases thus allowing a more accurate reading of pop pressure. I'm thinking that to accomplish this, the sequence should be: bottle jack -- valve -- gauge -- injector. This way the gauge reading will be the pressure at the injector side.

The pop pressure procedure would then be:

1) Pump bottle jack with valve closed.
2) Slowly open valve to increase pressure at the injector side. The gauge should then show increase in pressure.
3) If pressure is not enough, close valve, pump jack and then slowly open valve. Repeat until injector pops.

I will build mine this way and let you guys know how it turns out. The only problem is that I am having difficulty finding 6mm OD Merc injector lines. Another option is to obtain an old delivery valve holder so I can temporarily use one of the injector lines on my 300D. Anyone have a spare injector line or delivery valve holder I can buy?

I have 5 Monark nozzles from C. Sean Watts that I'm itching calibrate and install.

Renntag 03-28-2012 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Archangel (Post 2489972)
Well, let's see.

The welding on the top nut did not go so well.
External Leaks!
RE-WELD!
External Leaks!
RE-WELD!
External Leaks!
Try brazing instead!

No external leaks at all, that is until it got to about 1800 psi, then POP the top blew off where the brazing was with a huge cloud of diesel fuel that sprayed everywhere!

Given your troubles, I might want to go with the portapower design system. No mods.

Oracle12345 04-09-2012 08:30 PM

i tried following this article and I get not pressure at all at the injector so which means i screwed up somewhere. i have no leaks any where but just getting a stream and low pressure. what exactly do we modify to the bottle jack?

bmwpowere36m3 04-11-2012 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oracle12345 (Post 2917697)
i tried following this article and I get not pressure at all at the injector so which means i screwed up somewhere. i have no leaks any where but just getting a stream and low pressure. what exactly do we modify to the bottle jack?

With the injector hooked up your getting a stream and low pressure? If so then your injector is either dirty/worn/damaged. What pressure are you getting before the injector opens? IIRC, you remove the center ram, weld the pin hole in the inner cylinder, weld a fitting to the top of the inner cylinder and attach a fuel reservoir to the outer cylinder to fill the jack with fuel. There are a bunch of DIYs out there.

whunter 12-27-2013 01:18 PM

Recycled
 
for a forum member

threejak 04-04-2015 01:09 PM

A Macgyver amongst us... Super well done!

240D.Bill 12-01-2016 02:59 PM

Fantastic Write-Up!
 
When I see ones like these it both inspires and intimidates the hell out me from submitting anything half as good. I'm anxious to build one.

Question... Where do you find a shut off valve such as your's that's rated for 3000 psi? I can only find them to 600 at best.

Father Of Giants 09-01-2017 08:54 AM

How much does it cost to build?

optimusprime 09-02-2017 05:34 AM

What about making opne for the old type petrol none electric injectors .Would the idea be the same ?

tjts1 03-20-2018 02:08 PM

Is there an advantage to using a liquid filled gauge vs a dry gauge? My Bosch pop tester came with a couple of dry gauges but I was debating getting a liquid gauge.

vwnate1 02-11-2019 07:01 PM

A Very Good Thread !
 
TTT .


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:54 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website