fixed my gearbox issues today, now the box shifts fine under full throttle, but from third to fourth it still slips a bit, prolly due to age of the box; need to lift off slightly for this shift.
as for part throttle shifts they r fine but for very low rpm sifts, they jerk a bit. a rebuild will fix this but that has to wait for now. next step proper fuel setup

btw, should i worry abt the rear pcv (the one going into the intake) at my current bosst of 0.55 bar? what issues will it lead to if left as is?

ok finally i did something right but a bit late:), my car has been loosing coolant at a high rate turns out its a busted pump. any how i figured that while the car is at the shop why not run a compression test ( first right move since the start of the project), test result is : 5 pistons have a compression close to 11 while 4th is slightly lower at 9.8 - 10. My mechanic told me that the engine is fine. and while the spark plugs where out i did check them for combustion signs: the heads are white which i guess means that car is still running leaner than it should. On monday i'll be fixing my exhaust leak and will be using the wideband again to see how lean the car is, and what can be done to fix it.

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Jay

Your compression variance cylinder to cylinder should not exceed one bar.

Prior to the twin turbo install we had compression of approximately 12.5 - 13 bar on a 62K mile M103-12V with stock 9.2:1 compression ratio.

Ed A.

well the diffs from highest to lowest were 1 bar not more, with all being close but for the forth piston (lowest reading), so is 11 bar ok or not (car has 230Kmiles)? should i worry abt a rebuild??

Compression is excellent considering the mileage.
Not sure if it can stand up to the boost......

Well sir, my doubts exactly, but i have decided not to worry abt it till it starts giving way (high oil consumption, smoke, or power loss). BTW I am most definitely going with a setup similar to your additional injectors ( SPLIT SECOND controller too) I mean you are running 0.48 bar boost and have around 310 HP while I am running 0.55 and doesn’t feel like 260hp. Then there is the low down pull, I mean yes I can see positive boost from as low as 1500 rpm and some considerable boost by 2200 yet you don’t feel like there is much torque and you only feel the car really moving when you rev it over 3500. now I know a lot of this is down to the fuel not being setup properly, and ill be more than glad if my car makes 290 – 300 hp on 0.55 bar.
Need to ask you abt timing though, as you know the EZL control unit has a vacuum line going into it, have you done anything to stop boost feeding into this line? And do you have a fixed R-16 resistor or an ezl knob like the euro spec. I have the knob and now its on N setting (lowest timing).

Considering the miles on your motor and with knowing that it may not take the boost....then go for it.

If you intend on rebuilding then use it as a test mule.
Doubtful you'll damage any of the hard parts providing you don't run too lean.
More just blowing out seals, gaskets and anything else that can't hold even a bit of additional pressure !!


I have a USA version with a non adjustable EZL which you can see in the picture below.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/TTCM17.jpg

The USA version has a fixed R16 resistor.
Not sure of the resistance value as there were four or five available for different markets.
There has been much discussion about performance increase by removing the resistor.
I don't think it makes a difference whether it's installed or not on a stock motor.
I removed mine after communicating with a member of MBCA who ran a supercharged 190E....
With boost the removal seems to give you a better top end feel....
Not sure if it's in my mind, but it didn't negatively effect perfomance.
I carry it around in my ashtray, just in case.
No pinging/detonation running USA 93 octane super premium.
I will from time to time run an octane booster, but see no difference.
Regularly run Chevron Techron to keep the injectors clean.

There was some question about the performance of the additional injectors with stand alone control, versus modifying the ECU to enrich under boost.
The additional injectors appear to give excellent distribution to all cylinders and the stand alone control offers infinite adjustment via a 3D map.

I posted a picture of the supplied Turbotechnics additional injector assembly which replaces the boot that connects the air valve assembly with the throttle body.

You may want to contact Hughes of Beaconsfield in the UK to see if they have this part and the machined block that fits inside available.
If they do it will solve all your problems !!

The "new" Mosselman is building units for later model Mercs, not sure if they have the old piggyback ECU available.

"Mercedes Entuhusiast " magazine in the UK had an article this month on a Mosselman turbo install on a W201 190E....

If you rebuild the engine for a .48 bar boost then just build it to stock specs and clean the head up.

High boost may mean more power, but does not always give more performance.
Same for large turbos.

The small twin turbos with .48 bar boost if set up correctly show no turbo lag, come in without notice, are quiet and push you back in your seat.

You don't want to build a high horsepower, large turbo, high boost engine because it may win you "bragging rights", but in essence is a "hand grenade".

There are a few poster from Sweden who claim almost 900HP and 9000RPM from a M103-12V, but have never seen a real dyno chart or any timed quarter mile runs.

Ed A.

thanks for the big info post sir, i never intended to build a high power engine. I understand engines and what they are capable of and thus what they can't. having the engine run as a test mule is exactly what i have in mind, as for the additional injector setup i truly know its the only way to go for i believe now that both the turbo technics and mosselman kits must have always been setup to run leaner than we would deem likable. Once i get my split unit contoller i'll be custom building one additional injector into the throttle body basing my setup on the photo you have posted. i will use one injector rather than 2 because i have the more flowing fuel distributor i told you abt P/N 044, and if more fuel is yet needed will be thru eha enrichment. btw i am using the original k16 turbos that were used on the mosselman turbo ie: 2 small turbos. As for the enrichment controller by mosselman: i have contacted them and they dont make that unit any more.
i would like to point out that removing the R16 resistor = max advance by the EZL, so now i know that once i properly setup the fuel (AFR) i'll be able to run advance like on your setup, and yes it has a noticeable effect on the turbo setup (less effect on N/A cars). Your setup still has one more advantage over mine when it comes to the intercooler placement, for this top mount one really does little to cool the charge.
My car doesn't have a cat installed, and i believe this the reason my setup (even with wastegates at max opening) cant boost less than 0.5 - 0.55 bar.
Boy can the M103 take a beating.

I need to bother still a little more here sir; my car seems to run hot all the time, especially at slow speeds where temp will hit the 100 Celsius and then drop back when the electric fans kick in, then they switch off and hit 100 again. The car hasn't gone past that mark (wight dash on the gauge above the 80 mark). I have completely refurbished the cooling system with a new water pump, new hoses, and a new radiator which i also had flushed a week ago just in case.
so is that how your car runs now? when you open it up do you have any issues with the car running hot?

thank you for all the help, as ever, ppl like you make forums run the way they are meant to be.

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Jay

Well, before i installed the turbos on my car, i ran my car against a Honda type R as benchmark run for after the kit install. First run, we raced to 170 Km/h which by then he was ahead of me by 4 to 5 cars.
Now with the turbos on, we raced to same speed almost maybe 180 km/h this time, by then i was 6 to 7 cars ahead.
so i can confirm an improvement of Atlas 10 cars, so i based on that rough estimation i say my car has now close 270 hp compared to having 200 hp (at Fly wheel)(confirmed by dyno run) before the turbo.

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Jay

Guys, the more i drive this car the more i am loving it. although i have a ton of small issues to sort, the car is turning out lovely. and the best thing is, it is the only one in my country. boy cant wait to get out of work and have a blast in it. But fuel consumption is downer, i mean 20l of the super stuff sets me back USD 21 here.

Thats about the same price for 92 octane premium here. Here its 4.10 a gallon so thats like 1.10 USD for a liter i think

Wow never knew its that much your side tooo (UK or USA?), its the Gulf countries that have it the easy way, at most 20L cost 6 USD may be 10 usd in UAE. But then again they produce the stuff

blew my head gasket last night racing a slightly moded nissan 350Z (2004), i won the race by 2 car lengths (lol) now with engine opened i took a look at the internals and boy am i stunned. a 371000km and everything inside is still in gr8 condition :).
question is: i am increasing HG thickness by 0.3 mm so need your estimation if that will lead to too much CR drop? should i go for more thickness or less? for 0.55 bar bost.

Im in the USA, but this will help you on your compressio ratio calculating: http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html

I`m recomending piston machining, because whith increased head gasget thickness you loose squish area and then power ang fuel economy. Also more easily knocks when squis is remowed.