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  #16  
Old 12-04-2009, 04:31 PM
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ps up graded to the later larger size parts wich uses bigger dia bolts.

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ce 320 amg
widebody
tiwn turbo
Mutty 'der nail'
soon to be a six speed nail


"some mods improve your car and make it into something it never was, other mods, however, although essentially the same, are not, and make that car a ricer"

if your car isnt shiny, you dont know what you are talking about, remember; paint shine = knowledge. In order to be taken seriously, you should spend all your money on paint, (and get a dyno reading).
Dont forget to polish it often
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  #17  
Old 12-06-2009, 02:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick.ged View Post
i have "deleted" the flex in my flex disks by lining the prop and the gearbox flanges up and bolting straight through using the flex disk as a spacer, same with the diff end, havent driven it yet, but cant see any problems, shear on the bolts may be the week spot, will keep the board informed.
That's a good way to take the tailhousing off your transmission. The engine and tranny move, as well as the diff, and not in the same way. Without that flex, things will break.
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  #18  
Old 05-09-2010, 07:03 AM
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hay austin, its been a while but i am back again with questions for you about the prop you had made!

i have not done this yet, but am going to now because i have chewed a bunch more donuts

so, i am struggling to identify the parts i need to order to make a complete prop up,
I think i need

2x spicer yoke 27 spline
2x joint "thingy" (cross shaped)
2x welded yoke to join to shaft
4 x clips to hold together.

then one seal each for getrag box and pumpkin...

is this list right?

is it possible for ypu to give a full list of part numbers so i can order them from a site on your side of the pond,

your help would be very appriciated.

also, hows the ce, done anything more to it recently?
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ce 320 amg
widebody
tiwn turbo
Mutty 'der nail'
soon to be a six speed nail


"some mods improve your car and make it into something it never was, other mods, however, although essentially the same, are not, and make that car a ricer"

if your car isnt shiny, you dont know what you are talking about, remember; paint shine = knowledge. In order to be taken seriously, you should spend all your money on paint, (and get a dyno reading).
Dont forget to polish it often
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  #19  
Old 05-09-2010, 02:19 PM
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That sounds about right on what you need. I'll try and get under there and take the thing off and make sure these are the same as what I've got. But, if you go to the parts site for the yoke, it says which other parts are compatible.

So, you need the "Spicer 3104-27", assuming the trans/diff is a 27 spline. If not, just measure and count and go to a table of yokes and match it close. (I can help with that if you get the measurements). Then you need the corresponding U-joint cross part, and end strap. http://www.actionmachineinc.com/dodge725825endyoke2-4-5851-1.aspx.

If you go there it actually shows the compatible parts on the same page, 1310 series U-Joints. I went non-greasable. "Spicer 5-785X" and end straps "Spicer 2-70-18X"

Now, I didn't make my own driveshaft, so they probably used a weld on 1310 series slip joint. Something like this: http://www.actionmachineinc.com/gm1310seriesslipyoke2-3-6081x.aspx


I haven't gotten the other seal yet, and looking at my measurements, I think I may have something wrong... I'll have to get back to that. Because it looks like the trans and diff. are the same size? The automatic transmission is different though. The closest I can find for the other seal is "SKF Rotary Shaft Seal CRW1-R 16811" but haven't confirmed that it works and that's assuming I didn't screw up when measuring. I took the old seal OD, and the required new seal ID.

All this is a 3.69 Differential, 27 spline, 129 part number case, 190E-16V Getrag 5-Speed manual transmission 27 spline. 1992 300CE.

The rear bolt housing for the seat belt also interferes with my shaft center u-joint, so I had to cut it. But knowing that, you can engineer around it. I'd recommend aluminum given the weight of this one. Also recommend a custom center-bearing. When I had mine made, they couldn't find one that matched so I have the OEM Mercedes part.

2(or 4)X "Spicer 3104-27"
2 X "Spicer 5-785X"
2 X "Spicer 2-70-18X"
( http://www.actionmachineinc.com/dodge725825endyoke2-4-5851-1.aspx )

1 X "SKF Rotary Shaft Seal CRW1-R 16900"
( http://www.rocketseals.com/catalog/o-rings-and-seals-for-u-s-measurements/oil-seals-cr-skf-speedi-sleeves/oil-seals-cr-skf/rotary-shaft-oil-seals-cr-skf%3B7593 )

1 X "SKF Rotary Shaft Seal CRW1-R 16811"
( http://www.rocketseals.com/catalog/o-rings-and-seals-for-u-s-measurements/oil-seals-cr-skf-speedi-sleeves/oil-seals-cr-skf/rotary-shaft-oil-seals-cr-skf%3B7592 )

I'm waiting on the turbo manifold right now. The only progress I've made is get the manual window regulators installed. Every time I have to outsource something it takes months. I really, really need to learn how to weld...

Last edited by MagnumPI; 05-09-2010 at 02:35 PM.
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  #20  
Old 12-13-2010, 03:25 AM
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Follow through..............

This is an ancient thread that addresses a common problem: drive line wind-up that some of us would like to eliminate.

I would like to revive the discussion and ask those who posted above what became of their attempts to eliminate the flex discs? What were the long term effects? Etc, etc.

Has anyone else worked up a way to replace the factory flex discs with something more durable and less prone to wind up?

Thanks & regards,
bobf
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  #21  
Old 12-13-2010, 03:30 PM
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The thing worked great for the 60 miles it ran, real smooth and direct power transfer. But the head gasket blew almost immediately. So long term is unknown.
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  #22  
Old 12-17-2010, 07:41 AM
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Drive shafts are really no yoking matter . . .
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  #23  
Old 12-17-2010, 02:40 PM
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Get car on a little upward hill,turn car off put it in gear, push on back of car up the hill , let it come back you should here it clicking,it you have 2 people it's alot easyer. They can watch drive shaft. center carryer bearing,rear yoke, flex coupler,and at rear tran's bearing. I had a ml320 and It had a little click, center carryer bearing. I though it was rear joint sound like it any way.

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