budget boosted 190 help

[3.0190]

ok here is what im working with, I have a 1990 2.6 5 speed 190. I have a turbo manifold from a 87 300d, or i can source one from a 140 chassis diesel. I have turbos from 124 2.5s and kkk turbos from 123s with external waste gate. i have a intercooler from a 202 c230 kompressor. can i boost this thing on 5-6 psi without efi engine management with a colder plug on such low boost? Any way to pull timing with stock computer? any way to manipulate fuel? like a 1:1 refrenced regulator? sorry if i sound stupid ive worked on theese cars for years but never modded one. ive modded lots of camaros and hondas but they are all efi and have lots of aftermarket support. Ive searched on here for two days with no luck at finding answers to my questions. thanks in advance.

[duxthe1]

I guess I'll field this one....

Ditch the 300D manifold and get the 140Ch. part. I don't think the turbo from the 2.5 has a T3 flange so its out. The 300D turbo is T3 but it may have other drawbacks. Does yours have external wastegate linkages or does the actuator pod connect directly to the turbine housing? The former is desirable, the latter may have fittment issues and be very difficult to regulate to 6 PSI.

6 PSI intercooled will be ok with the stock components. The ignition module can be trimmed to a less aggressive curve. 2 or 3 heat ranges colder on the plug is a good idea. The fuel distributor can flow enough fuel to support that low boost, though you'll likely need some sort of enrichment. You can either piggyback additional injectors or enrich through the stock fuel system. I have a controller that does just that posted in the for sale forum. Either way the stock CIS computer works just like normal.

Other than this it will be just plumbing the hardware. The thread on my build may give you some ideas along those lines. BTW using a 190D 2.5 turbodiesel airbox, heatshield, and louvered fender will get you cool points in my book.

[3.0190]

Originally Posted by duxthe1

I guess I'll field this one....

Ditch the 300D manifold and get the 140Ch. part. I don't think the turbo from the 2.5 has a T3 flange so its out. The 300D turbo is T3 but it may have other drawbacks. Does yours have external wastegate linkages or does the actuator pod connect directly to the turbine housing? The former is desirable, the latter may have fittment issues and be very difficult to regulate to 6 PSI.

6 PSI intercooled will be ok with the stock components. The ignition module can be trimmed to a less aggressive curve. 2 or 3 heat ranges colder on the plug is a good idea. The fuel distributor can flow enough fuel to support that low boost, though you'll likely need some sort of enrichment. You can either piggyback additional injectors or enrich through the stock fuel system. I have a controller that does just that posted in the for sale forum.

Other than this it will be just plumbing the hardware. The thread on my build may give you some ideas along those lines. BTW using a 190D 2.5 turbodiesel airbox, heatshield, and louvered fender will get you cool points in my book.

I might be beter off getting a after market turbo and boost controller. wonder if you could use the 117 fuel distributor and run two extra injectors from it? but that would even be hard to regulate and realy fat when not in boost. can you elaborate on your controller? what turbo would be best for this? ill look at my turbos tomorrow when i go back to work and look at my options but i think the vacum diaphram is bad on two of them that controls waste gate. the ones on the old 123 motor looks super small. are you in the u.s.?

[3.0190]

only other option im considering is the high comp. 103 sel/4matic engine and a direct port wet nitrous kit. but then i need to control timing but the fuel side would be covered. I think it will hold up under 150 shot for a long time if i can retard the timing like 6 degrees and 2 range colder plug

[duxthe1]

The 300D turbos are .48 /.42, which is the smallest turbo for the T3 flange. I used that turbo for my install but I didn't build a peak HP motor, more of an "area under the curve" motor and its a good choice for that.

The controller I have is from the Mosselman twin turbo kit installed on the 103s 'back in the day. It intercepts the EHA signal and substitutes its own signal enriching under boost.

[3.0190]

Originally Posted by duxthe1

The 300D turbos are .48 /.42, which is the smallest turbo for the T3 flange. I used that turbo for my install but I didn't build a peak HP motor, more of an "area under the curve" motor and its a good choice for that.

The controller I have is from the Mosselman twin turbo kit installed on the 103s 'back in the day. It intercepts the EHA signal and substitutes its own signal enriching under boost.

what year did yours come off of ? is the controller vacum referenced? that seems like a simple setup. so what is the best way to tune the timing for it?

[duxthe1]

It originally came off of a 92. It is MAP referenced and has two potentiometers on the board to set the cut in pressure and rate of enrichment. There is also an externally accessible final trim. It's capable of putting over 90MA on the EHA but you probably wouldn't need half that for sufficient enrichment. The Mosselman setups were 6 PSI and I used it running 9 PSI.

The EZL ignition module uses 7 different trim resistor values to determine the timing curve. I don't remember any specific values at the moment but a little research on the subject will be enlightening. I think there's even reference to different values buried in my build thread.

[oldsinner111]

I run nitrous on my m104.Cheapest setup,if you buy your kit used.I bought a 125 shot kit,can rejet to 150.I added my wet shot 6" above throttle plate.

[oldsinner111]

I recomind that you start at 75 hp shot,to 100 shot then 112 shot,125,and on.Reason why is there a sweet spot for the motor.I ran the 1/4 in 15.1 at 112 shot.I increased to 125 and ran 15.5.So there is only so much of a wet shot,that the engine can digest.
Also mod your exhaust for free flowing.I use one Borla muffler.I suspect if I had headers and larger down pipe I could run 150 shot

[oldsinner111]

one thing moree unless you have a fuel pressure gauge,set fuel one or two sizes richer.Oh yeah I use standard timing and plugs,its good to 150hp.

[3.0190]

Originally Posted by oldsinner111

one thing moree unless you have a fuel pressure gauge,set fuel one or two sizes richer.Oh yeah I use standard timing and plugs,its good to 150hp.

If i go nitrous i might go direct port and tap the intake runners. any headers availiable for 103 or make your own? With a little weight reduction and gear i think i could get to low 13s. .... It looks lite nitrous is easiest. The tuning of cis with boost looks horrible

[oldsinner111]

you can get one for a chevy.But beleve it mixes good in you throttle space.My feel with direct injection what controls same flow to each cylinder.
Buy a heater thermo controlled,if you have extra money a window switch will help.I have to watch tack and spray after 3,000 rpms and stop at 6,000.
Oh yeah I paided $250 for my N.o.s.sniper kit for v8 engine.

[oldsinner111]

later I plan to turbo.But I'm buying a worn motor to rebuild,using heavier componites.To will take my time fitting a turbo,or supercharger to the engine,as money comes.I will then use nitrous from 3,000 to4,000 rpms for first gear only.
If supercharger,I'm using the kind that looks like a turbo,they bolt up easier.
But this is five years down the road.I also use nitrous only at the track.I don't street race,here they'll take your car.

[3.0190]

Originally Posted by oldsinner111

you can get one for a chevy.But beleve it mixes good in you throttle space.My feel with direct injection what controls same flow to each cylinder.
Buy a heater thermo controlled,if you have extra money a window switch will help.I have to watch tack and spray after 3,000 rpms and stop at 6,000.
Oh yeah I paided $250 for my N.o.s.sniper kit for v8 engine.

the one im talking about is the nitrous express , it has a fuel and nitrous shark nozzle for each intake runner. And yes it takes a certian distance from each cyl to atomize.

[oldsinner111]

Becareful of buying one that has intergrated solenoids.You want to be able to replace them if something happens to them or one.Do use the relay,don't get in a hurry and hotwire system.It blows solenoids.