camshaft oil tubes - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ewenjo · #1 02-11-2007, 08:41 AM

I believe I read in the forum that it's good maintenance to change the plastic oil feeds. If so, how does the tube dissassemble? Does the tube simply pry off? What is the caution I must be aware off if any? Are the replacement pastic feeds readily available?

Thanks

Roncallo · #2 02-11-2007, 09:08 AM

Pull each on straight out carefully so that you dont break them off inside the hole on the cam towers. Then slide them off the tube and reinstall.

John Roncallo

Strife · #3 02-11-2007, 10:32 AM

It is a little tricky to reinstall them - they have to be installed all the way onto the pillows on top of the cam towers that support them. There should be no or hardly any space between the plastic fitting and the top of the cam tower. I had to use a rubber mallet to do this - pressing alone couldn't do it.

NEVER remove, then reinstall the same fittings. They can be used only once.

sokoloff · #4 02-11-2007, 06:25 PM

So is this a DIY job for someone with reasonable ambition, perseverance and assistance from this forum?

Is there a step by step write up somewhere? Tried doing a search and didn't find what I was looking for.

Len

Strife · #5 02-11-2007, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sokoloff

So is this a DIY job for someone with reasonable ambition, perseverance and assistance from this forum?

Is there a step by step write up somewhere? Tried doing a search and didn't find what I was looking for.

Len

Well, I think it is - actually, the hardest part is getting the valve covers off (the LH one is hard because you have to remove fuel lines and the brake booster hose). Also, getting the covers back on (with NEW valve cover gaskets and the little crush washers on the bolts) and torquing them down properly is a little tricky. It's very important to torque down the valve covers (called cam covers on this car) right because improperly done, you could warp the covers and/or get leaks. The valve covers are cast and very thin.

sokoloff · #6 02-11-2007, 09:45 PM

What would my new parts list be?

Two valve cover gaskets, about eight bucks each.
Two cam oiler tube repair kits, 116 180 01 84, about six bucks each.

Anything else or anything else that I ought to do while I've got access to things I wouldn't normally have?

Len

Strife · #7 02-11-2007, 11:46 PM

I would get the eight crush washers. About the only extraordinary tool you would need would be a 1/4" torque wrench. Most inexpensive torque wrenches are notoriously inaccurate on their low ends, and you would definitely be way on the low end of a 3/8" or a 1/2".

You could really do this job without it if you have a good touch.

I did this job both times while doing the timing chain.

deanyel · #8 02-12-2007, 12:20 AM

What car? Your 380SL would not have plastic oil tubes.

Strife · #9 02-12-2007, 12:26 AM

The tubes on these cars are made of aluminum, but this is not the issue; the fittings are made from plastic, and these fittings are known to shrink (and pop out) or break with age. The previous owner of my 380 ignored this, and the lack of oil to the RH cam wiped it out along with 8 cam followers - not cheap to fix even with my labor and careful shopping.

ewenjo · #10 02-12-2007, 07:34 AM

thanks for the info..Strife and Roncallo... as always your words of experience keep marching me along.

sokoloff · #11 02-12-2007, 09:19 AM

Thanks Strife. So the oil tubes themselves basically never need to be replaced right, only the plastic fittings. While the valve covers are off, what can I easily reach with regard to the timing chain tensioner and guides? The car I'm looking at only has 37,000 miles on it. Chain ought to be fine, but I'm a little concerned about the guides, etc. Also a little concerned about the bottom guides, but hate to go through the exercise of replacing unless the school of thought is after 20 years, just suck it up and do it.

Len

Strife · #12 02-12-2007, 12:33 PM

well, the guides are a whole different story - you can SEE them after removing the valve covers but you can't remove or replace them without removing the alternator, water pump, fan, etc.

ewenjo · #13 02-12-2007, 09:17 PM

hey Sokoloff
I,m well into changing the upper rails, tension rail, tensioner and finally the timing chain. It's been somewhat fun and challenging. As strife says you must remove just about everything off the front of the engine including the distributor. I also removed the radiator because it was pretty easy and gave me more room to access the rail pins. The fun starts when you start to remove the rail pins. Don't know whether or not you should change them.. as I too am a novice MB owner..... Strife and Roncallo seem to have the insight on that decision. Good luck