BETTER but -New theory - DJET–Worn Distributor /trigger points - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

meltedpanda · #16 05-07-2010, 02:15 PM

ok got the pertronix set up, plan to install this weekend, other than what has been posted , oh wizzards of the pointless MB's what else do I need to know??
Of course the last two outings have found her running better than she ever has ....lol

winecountryone · #17 05-07-2010, 09:41 PM

Where did you get your pertronix?
I have thought about it but as the points don't really see a lot of current I question if it's worth the money.Be interested to hear how that installation goes!

Graham · #18 05-07-2010, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

ok got the pertronix set up, plan to install this weekend, other than what has been posted , oh wizzards of the pointless MB's what else do I need to know??
Of course the last two outings have found her running better than she ever has ....lol

Just posted here:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1518076-74-450sl-ecu.html#post4135440

Tombstone doing same job.

rowdie · #19 05-10-2010, 10:11 PM

Ron. What plug wires and plugs are you using. Being discussed here.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1518929-living-spark-plug-hell-please-help.html
Interesting. Seems to be the conclusion is resistor wires with non resistor plugs as it was designed.

Graham · #20 05-10-2010, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rowdie

Ron. What plug wires and plugs are you using. Being discussed here.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1518929-living-spark-plug-hell-please-help.html
Interesting. Seems to be the conclusion is resistor wires with non resistor plugs as it was designed.

Nothing wrong with that approach if you can find non-resistor plugs and are prepared to pay big bucks (4X more) for OEM type wires with resistors in ends.

But new low resistance Bosch wires with Bosch or NGK Resistor plugs work just fine and cost a lot less. In fact it is what Bosch recommend and they designed the beast in the first place.

This has been discussed over an over.

meltedpanda · #21 05-10-2010, 11:19 PM

I got this thing about nipped, I think the slight play in my distributor is affecting the point gap. When I get time to put the daggone thing in I will know more. The CO is another issue, but that too is better ( at least the rich smell) since I adjusted to center point on ECU. I am not going the plug route or new wires , I got all Bosch OEM, the kind she came with. Took me some thinking to be OK with optical points. Just glad you can't see them

meltedpanda · #22 05-10-2010, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winecountryone

Where did you get your pertronix?
I have thought about it but as the points don't really see a lot of current I question if it's worth the money.Be interested to hear how that installation goes!

main reason is my dwell wobble, I think it is from worn dizzy, pertronics , so I understand, is not affected by worn distributor shaft. Granted we are talking about a very little wobble, but then again I have a very little miss. just agravating

Got mine from www.ponderosamustang.com

Raymond 77 · #23 08-18-2010, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

Ron,
If you suspect distributor wear (and even if you don't), consider installing a Pertronix 1885 in place of the points. It is not sensitive to distr shaft wobble and eliminates ever having to set points or measure dwell again! Cost is under $100. No need to do anything more than take the points out, slip the Pertronix in and attach two wires down near resistors.

I have a write up on how to adjust the MPS, but you have to have a GOOD CO meter or a wide band AFR meter before you start. Don't bother with one of those old wheatstone bridge type units. A Gunson or a pro type 5-gas meter is needed, or an AFR meter like the ones I referred you to earlier.

In the meantime, have you pulled your plugs? They can tell you a lot about the way your engine is tuned. This document shows my plugs during a time when my trigger points were worn. To check the trigger points, you need to remove the distributor, then connect a meter to common and then to each other contact in turn. While rotating the rotor by hand, note the angle that each of the 4 contacts closes for. It should be something in the 100deg range. In my case one was barely closing, but showed up as OK using the MB test. Typical plug after correcting trigger point problem.

Finally, an easy job - locate the ground connection on top/rear of engine where the injection system is grounded - clean this connection as well as the chassis ground near the battery. These can cause intermittent faults.

Aren't these old D-Jets fun

I set tham 115 deg range, is that to much you think,thanks
Raymond

meltedpanda · #24 08-18-2010, 05:50 PM

Since Graham is the only one that I know that has done this why dont you PM him?

Graham · #25 08-18-2010, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raymond 77

I set tham 115 deg range, is that to much you think,thanks
Raymond

That sounds fine. I don't think the exact number matters too much. But having three at 115 and one at 170 deg definitely was a problem on my car!

How exactly did you set them? I was going to make up a rig for doing them, but then I found a very good used set and then, I was GIVEN a brand new set. Running on used set now, so do have old set and a spare distributor to play with if I ever find the time.