Checking ball joints - 560SL - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rgnprof · #1 09-13-2010, 09:18 PM

I am not exactly sure how to best check the lower ball joints on my SL...I have had for some time an intermittent clunking noise (nothing real serious sounding) and I noticed a few days ago that both of the boots are torn on my lower ball joints (uppers look fine), and so I jacked up the car tonight to take a better look. A friend told me to take a good size pair of channel locks and squeeze the ball joint and control arm - looking for any movement. I definitely have up and down movement - took a pry bar and wedged in and noticed definite movement in the ball joint - maybe 1/8 in, or more??? But very noticeable....

What's acceptable movement? None?

ryan

Walrus · #2 09-14-2010, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgnprof

What's acceptable movement? None?

ryan

That is correct. If any doubt, take it to a competent alignment shop and ask for them to check it for you. I just had this done on my 560 and was pleased to find NO MOVEMENT. Simple alignment after tie rods changed and off I went, Straight and true...

rocky raccoon · #3 09-14-2010, 06:23 AM

My recommendation is to change the joints if you found torn boots. You probably don't know how long they have been torn. If the joints have not already been worn by road grit, they soon will be.

KCM · #4 09-20-2010, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocky raccoon

My recommendation is to change the joints if you found torn boots. You probably don't know how long they have been torn. If the joints have not already been worn by road grit, they soon will be.

+1

Just replaced one lower joint on mine due to a clunk when backing up. Jack the wheel up and pull the wheel back and forth at the bottom (not up and down) in different directions. If there is any movement between the ball and receptacle, the joint is loose.

rgnprof · #5 09-20-2010, 09:54 PM

Yea, I've already bought new ball joints (Lemforder's), and am just trying to find time to replace them - along with motor mounts, subframe bushings, and lower control arm bushings...

Can you be a little more specific with how you replaced your lower ball joints?

ryan

Deltacom · #6 09-21-2010, 08:40 AM

You will need a ball joint splitter and a press. Although your 560 arms are slightly different than the one on the pics the process is the same.

You will also need a 14” ¾” all threaded rod, 30mm nuts and a spring compressor plate to secure the mighty front spring to the arm before you remove the steering knuckle.

Internal rod ¾” and compressor plate

30mm nuts and washers

Secure spring

Use ball joint press

Shallow receiver tube

Ball joint out

Pressing in new ball joint

Warning: On no account the bottom nuts of the shock absorber should be removed while the steering knuckle is removed. Your life depends on this!!.

meltedpanda · #7 09-14-2010, 12:44 PM

should be little if any

rowdie · #8 09-23-2010, 10:53 PM

This procedure is in the chassis service manual. It requires the use of a specific cradle to do this. A spring compressor would be the way to do if you do not have access to this cradle.

meltedpanda · #9 09-27-2010, 07:19 PM

spring outa control = serious injury, be careful, why not just get a spring compressor?

rgnprof · #10 09-27-2010, 08:23 PM

I have done one side as of today - taking my time!

Did not use a spring compressor...I attached some of that carpet pad stuff - folded up - to the jack, just to keep the jack from slipping as I was trying to avoid metal to metal contact (jack to LCA)...I'm sure anything like leather or a piece of carpet, etc. would work... The trick is to make sure the jack won't slide - not just the jack to LCA, but also the wheels of the jack on our garage floor!

Again, I have studied the FSM numerous times and did this earlier on my W114 without incident. The FSM does NOT call for a spring compressor...but I'm sure you could probably figure out a way to better attach the jack to the LCA if you are nervous.

I jacked up the control arm some and removed the LCA bushing eccentric bolts (I had already removed the lower shock absorber nuts and the sway bar bushing). I positioned the jack directly underneath the hole in the LCA and with the jack lever pointing just to the rear of the front wheel - and I actually reinstalled the tire and lowered the jack from behind the tire. No real problems - lowered the jack slowly, making sure nothing was sliding around, and removed the spring. You might hear a noise when the LCA bushings break loose and the arm starts to lower... and I would mark the position of the spring with some spray paint to get it reinstalled in the same place...

Removing the spring was actually the easiest part of the job - I had all kinds of trouble getting enough clearance to remove the ball joint from around the dust shield! Had to remove the steering knuckle and take everything off and to my bench...On the driver's side, I am going to try and figure out another way to get the ball joint enough clearance - probably will just try and bend the dust shield enough.

I'm not "recommending" this procedure - just describing how I did it. I have also discussed this procedure with several local Mercedes mechanics and none indicated that a spring compressor was necessary either - and one gave me the carpet pad/leather/vinyl idea...

I'll post again once I'm done - also replacing the subframe and motor mounts at the same time.

ryan

meltedpanda · #11 09-27-2010, 08:28 PM

snap a picture of the set up , I am currious

rgnprof · #12 09-27-2010, 08:54 PM

Ron,

I will as soon as I get back back to it - probably this weekend. Never thought about taking pics when I was removing the spring...

ryan

meltedpanda · #13 09-28-2010, 10:14 AM

great

rgnprof · #14 10-24-2010, 09:22 AM

OK - I am finally done! Got the car aligned on Friday and it runs great. Here is what I did...

I had absolutely no trouble removing the springs with just a jack under the LCA. I jacked the car up pretty high on the side I was working on and put a jackstand under the frame (added an additional one for backup)...I then put my floor jack under the LCA and raised it slightly to remove the eccentric bolts - then, hiding behind the tire (!) I slowly lowered the LCA until the spring just fell out - with no tension. No problems.

But, the reinstall was a slightly different story...I tried to position the jack and raise it slowly, but I just got too nervous. The jack started sliding around and I just couldn't get it to go up comfortably. So, I went to Lowes and bought a 5/8", 2 ft. all-thread and a 1/4" steel plate - drilled a hole in the plate and ran the rod up thru the spring. I put the steel plate on top of the perch and attached a washer and nut and ran the other end thru the hole in LCA and attached it with several washers and a nut. Then, using my floor jack and the also turning the nut on the all-thread at the LCA - I slowly raised the arm and got everything into place. MUCH SAFER!

I know what you're thinking - how did I get the 2 ft rod out of there? Well, I had already cut it down to about 20" (these springs are about 18"), but there was no way I had the car jacked up that high to clear the garage floor - so I took my SawZall (sp?) and just cut the rod. The rods were only $5, maybe, so, well worth it to me. I swear the second side took me 1/10 of the time as the first side - from start to finish. I changed the motor mounts (both sides were very easy with the car jacked up and tires off), front subframe mounts, LCA bushings, and the lower ball joints.

My thanks to all who offered some help - especially deltacom in the private communication. Hope this helps someone else.

Ryan

dbruckmann · #15 11-20-2010, 09:56 PM

Ryan,

How difficult was it to remove the old LCA bushings, and did you need to use a press to get them back in?

D.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgnprof

...
I changed the motor mounts (both sides were very easy with the car jacked up and tires off), front subframe mounts, LCA bushings, and the lower ball joints.