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  #1  
Old 03-02-2003, 03:12 PM
hudson66
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Question 380SL rough at start? Help!

When I start my 380SL when I first start it it runs rough, then when it warms up it goes away. The idle with AC and in drive is ar 600, any suggestions...
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  #2  
Old 03-25-2003, 07:09 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 53
Same problem

Hi all, I saw this post in the tech help forum, no replies there, any help here?

My (very) recently acquired '85 380SL has EXACTLY the same problem. It starts on the very first crank, but runs extremely rough. Ambient temperature is approx 5C, or 40-45F. As it warms up, it begins to smooth out. When full operating temperature is reached (15+ mins idling), the rough running is completely gone, and it runs quite smoothly. Plugs, distributor cap and rotor have just been replaced, and my new baby has been pampered from birth, with only 128,000 kms(80,000 miles). In a quite extensive search of this excellent site, there have been several conflicting answers to this type of question, in particular regarding the O2 sensor. Some suggest this is the culprit, while others say the O2 sensor has no bearing on engine performance until it is warmed up. Other possibilities center around the warm-up regulator, which is (for me) a very scary expensive part. Any ideas? Am I missing any input variables? thanks.
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Dan C.
"The Great White North"
85 380SL
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  #3  
Old 03-25-2003, 01:09 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 35
Thinking out loud, Could possibly be catalytic converter. Once the car warms, the exhaust flows more smoothly.

Just a thought.
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Marvin
1983 380 SL
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  #4  
Old 03-26-2003, 06:22 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 53
Catalytic Converter???

Wow, I never thought of THAT, so what do we do, put a pre-heater in the catalytic converter? Has anyone ever done this? Does Mercedes have a part number for it? Would it be electric or gas-powered? Any other ideas out there?
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Dan C.
"The Great White North"
85 380SL
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  #5  
Old 03-27-2003, 11:02 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Qld, Australia
Posts: 12
A friend with a 380sl swore that he had the same problem, and said it was due to the spark plug leads and/or spark plug contacts. He certainly fixed the problem after replacing them, but I can't understand why such a problem would be temperature dependent?? A cheap and easy diagnosis though, apparently..
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